w3wilkes

Both my 71 and 73 only had 1 speaker. I believe it was far bac left side.

In Utah, all through the greater Salt Lake City area, they use a ton of salt in the winter. It took 20 years for my 1973 240z daily driver to rust to the point it probably was structurally impaired. My current 1971 240z hasn't seen a salted road since I got it in 1991 and very little from the original owner who had it in SoCal for most of its life before 1991.

I know the drill... I have A/C too.

Yes, I just replaced my heater core hoses a couple of weeks ago. More fun than laughing right out loud! Found in another thread that the key is to unscrew the valve from the side of the heater core, undo the little hose from the valve to the core and then completely remove the valve from the hose that goes through the firewall. This gets you "almost" decent access to the hose closest to the firewall. Then went in reverse. Still a pain in the butt. I also replaced that little reducer hose by the block heater hose and ordered a backup, I figure that little piece of hose with the 2 different size ends will be discontinued like some of the fuel tank vent hoses.

Here's what Superbright has to say about the color. I used all bulbs that matched the color of the lens I put it behind and they turned out plenty bright. Read the item "Which Color LEDs Should I Use?" https://www.superbrightleds.com/carbulb_notes.php I've done every bulb on the outside of my 240Z along with the map, dome and glovebox. I put all the info in this thread. I also did the electronic flasher for both emergency flashers and blinkers.

I've done all my bulbs on the outside of my 240Z with LED along with dome, map and glovebox. Here's the post I put the bulb list in; The key to lights behind colored lenses for brightness is to get bulbs that are the same color as the lens you're putting it behind. For Headlights Had to use the anti-flicker harness to get the headlights to fire. With patience you can get the anti-flicker harness to fit in the stock headlight can with the LED H6024 bulb, I did.

I haven't found any stereo install in my Z to be easy! The Retrosound this time or the Sony cassette I put in before. Very cramped behind the console. The Retrosound has a ton of cables - pre-amp outs 4 chans plus sub, 2 aux, 2 USB, microphone, antenna, then there's the 4 speakers if no power amp, switch lead if you have a power amp, both switched and always on power, ground and finally power antenna leads. Doing the rear bracket to brace the unit is a bugger. And lastly having to custom make the faceplate because Retrosound doesn't have 240Z faceplates anymore.

My early 71 (mfg 12/70) has the chain and my 73 had the chain.

Over in Fuel Injection it's mentioned that winter fuel is coming. Where I live we have some stations that sell non-ethanol blended gas that I use almost exclusively. This fuel will store much better than an ethanol blend because it doesn't attract moisture like ethanol and is way less corrosive on fuel system components. I guess this is just a reminder that winter is coming and there are a few months where I live that the 240 probably won't be driven. Do you guys drain the fuel system or fill it full and use a "fuel treatment" for winter storage.

The rest of the story is I had to make my own faceplate. Retrosound said they only ever had the plate that came with my stereo. Michael Robbins is no longer with Retrosound so it seems that the 240 vs 260-280 different faceplate knowledge has been lost at Retrosound. They did send a .pdf of a 240 faceplate, the angles were correct, but the size was a little small. Here's how it worked out.

Thanks, I think I'll put an inertia switch on the MP2T jumper.

Does anybody know off the top of their head if the connector on a 240Z for the electric fuel pump jumper is an MP2TN connector found at http://vintageconnections.com/ShoppingCart.htm If it is I can avoid cutting it off and installing my own connector. EDIT: Probably should have put this in Electrical

Ya now what... I just let them go faster if they want. I will make it as easy as possible for them to pass. This makes it much more safe for me to go 6 over. Sometimes you actually get the enjoyment of passing them because they're pulled over for speeding. I like to call them "Sweepers".

What about hoses? There are some fuel tank vent hoses that are no longer available.

At least with the bulbs I got from my local NAPA store for the tail / brake / front marker they're just fine. Plenty bright and the difference from tail to brake / blinker is every bit as good as the incandescent bulbs were. I had heard that also, but I'm very pleased. Wonder if the complaints were from people that had put white bulbs behind a colored lens? I used the colored bulbs that were the same color as the lens I put it behind. https://www.superbrightleds.com/carbulb_notes.php Read the "Which color LED should I use"

That is correct. These bulbs are basically like a sealed beam bulb (same size as a H6024 sealed beam standard 7" bulb), the actual light source is integrated. It's not like a 7" round housing that you then put your LED bulb in that then sticks out the back another few inches. It's like a standard H6024 sealed beam bulb that fits in the standard headlight bucket (with some patience to fit the anti flicker module in there too). From the lens back is cast aluminum, not plastic, so I don't see them having any warp issues from stress or heat. As you can see from the link there's quite a bit of aluminum surface area on the back of these bulbs for heat dissipation, no fan. I've got them in bog stock headlight buckets. Since I'm heading out of town and the car is currently sitting on blocks while I finish some other stuff that requires underneath access I won't be doing the wall picks for a week or 2, but from the light on the wall about 5 feet in front of the car it appears to have a fairly crisp cut off line.

Yes, stock connectors. Had to use the anti-flicker modules which are stock connectors on both ends or the lights won't fire. The fun part was situating everything in the stock headlight buckets, but I was able to do it. Patience, patience, patience! Nobody else comes even close to the price of these lights! These headlights can be had for the price of the headlight relay alone and then you've eliminated the need for the relay. If they live up to regular LED longevity it should be the last headlights you'll ever put in your car. No, I'm not affiliated. https://www.eaglelites.com/collections/jeep-led-kits/products/eagle-lights-7-round-led-headlights-jeep-wrangler-cj-jk-tj-97-2015

Snap a couple of shots with my phone, all lights are LED... Not the best photo's but here ya go.

Bulbs I bought from Superbright bulbs; 2 - 67-CW12-G: Cool White (license Plate) 2 - 67-A12-G: Amber (side markers) 2 - 67-R12-G: Red (side markers) 1 - BA9S-WHP: Cool White (glove box) 2 - 3110-CW18-CB: Cool White (map and dome lights) All these fit without issue. The LED tail 1156 & 1157 for tail in the color of the lens (red for tail white for reverse) and LED 1157 for front blinker (Amber) I got from local NAPA store. They all fit fine.

All bulbs plugged into standard sockets. I went to https://www.superbrightleds.com/ and just did a 1156 equivalent for sidemarkers, regular tail and backup lights and 1157 equivalent for blinker bulbs in LED and a BA9 for the glove box. They look bone stock. Be sure to order the bulb color that matches the lens you're putting it behind. For the flashers I ordered 2 of these, 1 for blinker and 1 for emergency flashers. Worked fine. https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tnpla/65139883?cid=ppc-bing-New - Fleet Maintenance - PLA_EDmgDKpS__be_73667328438022_c_&mkwid=EDmgDKpS|dc&pcrid=73667328438022&product_id=65139883

My dash lights are the only bulbs left in the car that aren't LED. I've done all tail, marker, front signals, rear signals, dome, map and glove box. Also did electronic blinker and hazard flashers to accommodate LED bulbs, that way I didn't have to install load resistors at the bulb end. As far as cutting the bucket goes, with the longevity of LED I should never have to change a bulb! Yes, all stock wiring and with almost all bulbs being LED the overall harness load should be substantially reduced.

The lights showed up and all the stuff was there, anti flicker H4 -> H13 adapter. The bulbs seem to be very well made, clear polycarbonate lens slightly convex with fairly stout aluminum housing. Pulled the first headlight can and plugged in the light, switched on the lights and... Nothing! Unplugged the light and plugged in the anti flicker harness and viola, let there be light! It's a tight fight but I was able to get the anti flicker harness and the bulb in the stock headlight can. The other thing I'll mention is the bulb alignment nubs, had to use pliers and slightly bend out the indents to fit the nubs on the bulb. The nubs stick out just enough further that the bulb wouldn't seat without a slight bending out of the alignment slots with some pliers. If I had to go back to standard bulbs the alignment slots would still be fine. Don't know why the bulbs won't fire without the anti flicker?? The bulbs look fairly stock in the car. When on low beam the light is all on the top half of the bulb, high beams light up both top and bottom. I think I might lower the aim slightly as they do throw out some light. Looks like a pretty clean cutoff line against the wall so I should be able to adjust not to blind oncoming cars. We'll see how they hold up. At this price point they are a steal compared to all other comparable bulbs I've seen (they look just like the Truck-lite and Grote's). If you don't see more here it means they haven't failed. We'll see how the 6000K color works out. I figure my night driving will be pretty minimal in this car anyway.

Thanks, Michael Robbins (the guy you dealt with in this thread) is no longer with RetroSound and the person I initially talked to said they only ever had the 280 plate. I referred him to this thread and he now says he'll look and see if he can find one.

Well the new hoses are all in! The easy way for me was first to install the back hose on the heater core. Then I attached both the transfer hose and the other hose that goes through the firewall to the valve. Slid the hose through the firewall, connected to the block and then connected the transfer hose to the heater core. Last thing was to re-attach the valve to the heater core and last re-connect the control cable (I had marked the cable before I disconnected it). Oh, the reducer was a piece of cake, did it first. This is a job I don't want to do again, but if I have to the first steps will be to disconnect the cable from the valve and then unscrew the valve from the core, remove the transfer hose from the core, remove the other end from the block and take the whole thing out, then removing the hoses from the valve is easy. After that I'd have full access to the back hose on the heater core. Way easier once you've done it once! Again, a big thanks to Pat for making this job much easier!

I know this is an old thread, but I too have found that the plate that came with the unit does not match up for a 240Z install. Did Retrosound actually send you a plate with real 240Z template? I've contacted them and they seem to know nothing about a 240z plate. I referred them to your post and they sound like it never happened.