240260280

Well now you have unleashed the meanest, baddest, fastest beast in your herd.... and it will put a smile on your face once you get it on the road. Most notably, after you drive a z for a few hours then pop into another car, you immediately miss the torque. Congratulations!!!

It is linear but over a very short range. 606-52 "Euro" distributor mechanical ~12degrees is all in at 1000rpm D6K8 280zx distributor mechanical ~17degrees is all in at 1250rpm

The problem I noticed with a triple carbed L engine and timing is: Z's like a lot of timing at idle (20 to 25) but not when starting (kick back)... 5 to 10 is nice when cranking A lot of timing at idle is not great for emissions (lean, slow burn likes lots of advance) too much early timing will ping fast on acceleration ~34 to 38 seems to be best range for L heads at max advance under load.... depends on chamber, cam, and compression Without vacuum advance, setting a 280zx distributor at ~ 18 initial and ~35 at final is an ok compromise... no advance for lean cruise is sad One idea I have not tried yet is to connect the choke cable where the vacuum advance connects. The cable could be pushed in to reduce the crank advance, then pulled back when running.

Some guys in your country did a lot of dyno pulls to compare carbs to EFI and also advance on a 510. The results were not significantly different.... either this is the finding or they did not test properly.

FACEBOOK SUCKS! HIDING DATA BEHIND A WALL AND MAKING SURE IT DISAPPEARS! WHY DO SO MANY PEOPLE FALL FOR THE BS.... IT IS LIKE DRIVING AN AUTOMATIC Z!!!!!! WEAK!!!!

For bump-steer optimization, what angle did you settle on for the steering rods? Are they parallel to the ground?

_.-"""-, .' ..::. `\ / .::' `'` / / .::' .--.=; | ::' / C ..\ | :: | \ _.) \ ':| / \ '-, \./ \)\) `-| );/ 4cliff '--'-' _ _ | | | | __| | __ _| |_ ___ _ _ _ __ / _` |/ _` | __/ __| | | | '_ \ | (_| | (_| | |_\__ \ |_| | | | | \__,_|\__,_|\__|___/\__,_|_| |_|

Sorry Cliff, the site says I am not allowed to like you today ? Nuts! ? ?️?️

Afterburner ?

I believe a Spark Plug is M18 x 1.5 if stuck on an island. The Professor.

You bought 3 kits ?

Bought a parts Sept 1970 240z to help with #147 resto. Seems to have early radio and antenna switch. Fingers crossed on the 2400 Valve Cover. I have not seen the engine yet and Sept is the final month of the 2400 cover.

Helped my buddy with BRE tribute. Triple Carb Linkage finished. Engine Electrical 3/4 Finished Lights connected (lots of splicing, crimping, soldering) Headlights Installed Front Turn lights installed Built 1 good licence plate lam assembly from 3 bad ones. Antenna coax fished Window bump stops installed Good day!

Is the throw of the push rod from the pedal correct?

btw nice F1 in Australia! THANKS!

View Advert Early 140 PSI Oil Pressure Gauge Required for 1969/1970 authentic restoration. These are rare as a Technical Service Bulletin called for their replacement by 90psi units. The 140psi gauges were installed from August 1969 until December 1970. p/n: 24830-E4400 Advertiser 240260280 Date 03/16/2019 Price $300.00 Category Parts for Sale

Picked up some period correct parts for 147: Hood Hatch Valve Cover Muffler Grill Wheels and Tires

btw there is a great documentary on Netflix covering 90% of the field during the 2018 season. It is called Drive to Survive. Very revealing.

Whoooooooo Hooooooo!

Looks like Mainland Chinese steel steal

I did some checks on Calyx "Graphite Paste". Here are some similar alternatives: Europe: Liberon Iron Paste: http://metalworkforums.com/f65/t171905-cast-iron-fireplace-question-restoring-using#post1662978 NA: Imperial Black Stove Polish (Canadian Tire) https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/imperial-black-stove-polish-paste-170g-0642703p.html

Or they pull the plastic vent pipe out and fill there.