dutchzcarguy

yeah you can break/cut it open easely and clean it off and do it again.. when you had to be in there..

The name DEXRON does not mean it's automaticaly ATF were they talk about i think? I sure never heard of putting atf in a manual gearbox! I always use 80w90 oil.

At the moment i use loctite blue on my L28 that just needs a new set of seals after 42 years.. I bought a set of seals but not all are in there sadly.. so you have to be creative. Anyone here has bad experience with using liquid seals in/on any engine?? (often i use it both a paper seal with some liquid sealer on it.. on both sides. And sometimes on one side like on the valvecover, makes checking valveclearance a easy job.) The same one as you, You know.. the one that is going to heat up like crazy, because people don't give a damn.. sorry guys..thats a complete other subject.. 🙊

haha.. the liquid seals these days are very good.. ask your autoshop .. Me myself use the blue stuff.. i don't know the name but liquid sealer is handy and better than paper. (just my opinion) What also is possible, do some liquid seal on original seals. one side.. than it's easy to open (valvecover?) and on both side timing cover.. not easy to open but as there are water and OIL !! channels going through that it's very important to seal it perfectly. What you mean with rtv i don't know but you need to use a good liquid seal.. not some silicone badroomsealer haha..

I'm almost sure thats the problem .. Btw.. the circuitbreaker was eh... my idea.. and i'll give you another one.. I made one parallel over a old blown fuse (those big glass fuses that are used in a 240z) and then you can click it right into the fusebox on the circuit you want to test.. ( I soldered the circuitbreaker to it.. went very well)

pull a piano-wire between the seal and the timing cover, also lower the pan a bit as someone already mentioned. for seals use a good liquid one, those aftermarket (paper?) seals these days are not the best.. liquid seal is good after some days and easy.

Thanks guys! zKars, i have some reserves but with 7 contacts.. (AFM.) . For the "ECU " i have a later 280zx ecu.. but then.. i've never seen a dead one.. Also my orig from the car AFM has P6600 but i think the P7200 could work as well. I'll thought about it but the shipping costs will be to high i think.. Mailnome, Yes! thats it! Thank you very much for the links!

Oh i love to see a pic like mine of a new chain.. i bet it's almost the same.. (It took some time to get the chain lying on the vise as it's very oily and flexing all the time.)

As i'm busy with the engineroom.. My air flow sensor is.. i think a little of scale due to the old spring in there.. I looked for a topic but could not find anything As i'm restoring al the parts in the engineroom, is there a way to restore the springtension in the air flow sensor/ a topic that i can read before i open mine? After 42 years the car is still driving well but i think a little slugish? It could do better but don't know yet if it's the AFM ? .. Compression on my 280zx 1979 euro.. (L28) is perfect on all cylinders. It never missed a beat and runs very well.. (I'm surprised that the AFM is doing so well as most AFM's are of the scale wrong after 40+ years..

Old topic.. TATFAW = think about that for a while

As i'm just in the proces of closing the front of my L28 (last week) I have a nice pic for you.. This is my reusable chain of 42 years old and 120000 Km on it ! It's in excellent condition if you ask me , By laying it on the vice you can see how much it bends.. this is normal for a used chain.. If it bends much more it's gone.. (I put it back with the big camshaftgear still on number 1 ! Meaning there is no stretched chain here..)

If your not so comfortable in looking for short circuits you could use some automatic fuses on places where you have the fusible links.. or normal fuses in a fuseholder.. it's much cheaper to blow some fuses then blow these fusible links! NEVER use bigger fuses always the right amperages or less!

Yeah.. thanks! I will put on a direct oilfilter on the engine and leave the oilcooler and lines in.. As the 280zx has a oiltemp. meter i can check it what it's doing.. next summer.. 👍

I thought the same but then.. i thought it's just a typo! he meant to say 12 volt..

It could have something electric like those swedish sportscars have.. solenoids.. 😂

I have had 3! 280zx's and were 1980 and 1983 and now a 1979.. they are/were all euro versions and all had an oil cooler! I'm sure that it all was standard. Thanks mailnome for your answer.. i think i leave it of as it don't really needs it with my driving .. this one is not for the circuits..

I got a question.. This 280zx has a oil cooler.. does it really need one as the 240-260 engines never had one standard iirc.. I do have some spare parts to make it a non oil cooler car. (tube in the middle of the oilfilter is a short one.) As i'm in the Netherlands (not that hot as in some other countries) and not racing i think that my car could run without the big oil cooler. (Much more tidy engine compartment) Did a 280z (s30) have a oilcooler? practicly the same engine.. WHAT DO YOU THINK?

I'm sorry.. language barrier.. what does that mean? i have put it in the "translator" and it says: the engine was camouflaged?? huh??

For this kind of problem i have automatic fuses.. that way you will not burn your new links! Instead of 1 try you can simply reset the fuse So install a temporary fuse, could also be a fuseholder with a suitable fuse of the rating of your link! 🙂 btw if you burn links your car has a big problem, normally only a fuse blows when there is a problem in the electric department..

I would double check because there is a lot of diff. parts between those years..

Fawlty Towers - Hammer Sandwich - YouTube

It's custom time! Make a block of wood that fits around it in 2 halfs.. get some sheet steel and... a hammer!! 😉

That's gonna be difficult i think.. especially red.. it's a fading color.. I have a 1979 280zx 2+2 and was in europe (netherlands) most of the time in a garage and had blue trim-pieces and they were (just) a little faded.. you can paint these things these days very well but use that stuff that is a sort of paint that you put on plastic to let the new paint stick better.. your paintshop can tell you all about it.

I have'nt read it... but i believe it literally has NO ROOF ?? 😮

Ah... Hope it's all there then! I just went a month ago? to the plater Galvano here in the netherlands and i always care to put nothing in it under lets say 8 mm big.. i had 3 very small screws in a batch of 50 Lbs or so? and... i got everything back in good as new condition.. (very small ones i put a ring on them and a nut that way they always come back.. never failed!) Including the thirsty ride in my 300zx 😉 i had to pay about 200Euro for the badge.. not bad.. they said it was not very profitable as there were a lot of big parts this time.. some nice fuel lines.. springs i use a small piece of steel to stretch them so it is plated perfect! 40 Lbs of steel stufffff........ fuel intake 280zx (gonna use this one on my 240z one day...i think it's better hope it fits.. (these are also on the 280z i think?))