heyitsrama

I'm sure Nissan has something in the works with smaller series drivers, but I've yet to see any media reviews or anything about the car. I'd expect some reviews to start trickling in around summer and maybe some cars start to trickle in. Media has been kinda tight around the car, there are some spottings in LA and Sacramento but besides that not much, at least in my feeds. GR Yaris looks fit, too bad it's not available in the USA. ;(

I don’t think the guys/gals on this forum are super into body mods like that, I don’t even like pierced belly buttons tbh. Checkout this thread on hybridZ https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/128069-datsun-s30-3-piece-spoiler-for-240z-260z-280z/

I would replace the whole line, it feels better than a patch job on an old line. Did the line rust out? Where will it leak next? See this thread for tools and info.

I just pulled apart this r180 that I got from a 74.5 260z and I’d like to confirm the gear ratio. I pulled the cover off and I don’t see any stamp on the ring… even spun it 360* 🥲 This thing looks nasty. Really want to clean out the casing. Gonna flip it over and let all the crap come out.

The underside sections are pretty straightforward to form by hand, but the slam panel (the one you look at) is easier to buy and fit up.

From my records I used KYB 361001 and 361002 on my early 260z chassis. @Randalla you got a photo of the gland nut? Mine also did the same clucking sound and it was a loose nut allowing the strut casing to shake around in the strut tube. I've also experienced what Steve was talking about with a loose strut bar connector, but it was only over speed bumps.

There is a trick, have someone with small hands do it for you 😆

Oh your hands gonna get jacked up. It might be easier to remove the window and tighten it up, maybe dab some thread adhesive. If you remove the window you get a shot at cleaning the rails too. If the rubber insulator is messed up between the mirror and the body it’s a great time to fix that too.

Damn granny that was fast.

I’ve met people that just don’t look at reference diagrams for part numbers, they are out there. Like given them a link to the parts diagram, expressed that the parts can be had for cheaper. But they don’t do it. Maybe it’s a convenience thing. I guess it’s easier to just click and order from one site.

@blodi pulling the rear cover off can be a pain in the arse because of the mustache bar. You could do this: 1. Calculate the diff ratio by spinning the wheels see https://shiftsst.com/blog/post/how-to-determine-the-rear-axle-ratio.html 2. Drive the car around, holding the speed constant. (use a GPS to get the speed car the Waze app has this information on the screen) collect GPS speed vs RPM for multiple gears 3. Get an tape and measure the wheel diameter in the rear 4. Come back and we can use some speed vs RPM calculators to figure out whats gear ratios the transmission has. Doing this is will probably be the best in order to figure out what diff ratio you want. I think 3.7 is a good option for a car that sees highway use. Once again its the LSD aspect that's the troublesome part.

You'll be up there in the RPM at `highway` speed, whatever that is in your area... I usually drive the car at 70mph street and highway. I've had a hard time finding a STI r180, consider that most if not all of them are will be used, and probably need a rebuild. I started sourcing r200 diffs personally, but finding the pinion ring at 3.7/3.9 can be a challenge, mfactory // EBAY LSD seems like good alternatives. The gearbox should mate up and fit, for the flywheel I like the `fidanza` brand, i went with a zx turbo clutch which was larger, but retains a stock feel when mated to a light flywheel, its comfortable. the close ratio gearbox might be hard to source, you can also look at finding a 240sx gearbox and getting the bellhousing modified. Or a cd009 w/ modified bellhousing.... The lack of rear ends kinda sucks... almost feel like doing the work to put a ford 8.8 in the rear, more selection, cheaper price.

“If the crankshaft and flywheel were” I just installed the fidanza flywheel to my “used” motor, I did not balance them (at all neither separately or as a unit) I think it would be BEST to balance them as a unit. I wonder what process a machine shop performs todo this, do they balance them separately then assemble them together and balance them again?

Take some measurements I have a stock one in my garage we can compare.

I think i have a bill of sale for my 260z it was $500 if that helps your case.

I think this is the stuff you're looking for http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic03a09/34-1015 I like the seals on the 74-78 bodies, they are longer and appear to seal better. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic03a09/34-1016-1 I've only used the latter ones, can anyone with experience with both chime in?

L-series motors are a great motor to learn how to rebuild, they are stout, parts are relatively easy to figure out, most of the hard stuff is already figured out. For $6500 you should probably find a new shop. You can probably do a stock rebuild for sub-$1k if you DIY. If you choose to go down that route, perform a leakdown test (or compression if you cant get access to a leakdown) and take notes of what the values are, it will give you insight to engine wear.

I feel like there should be cover for the blinker rod. Some type of rubber accordion like the clutch boot. I had a high beam switch that was all jacked up from UV exposure, picked up a spare column that came with semi new combination switches, id like to keep them in better condition.... Here is a picture of a replica 250 GTO that some dude was building.

rama says... its a cardinal sin dont do it.

🙂

already have dished pistons why not slap a little baby turbo in it?

The links can be seen in the lower left corner of the screen, I'm using Firefox with an ad-blocker. https://github.com/gorhill/uBlock

@z8987 they should not be going to Walmart, they work correctly on my machine.... Do you have any web browser plugins enabled? Maybe we should ping @Mike to make sure its not a problem with the site. For the Tie Rods I used `Moog` on the outters and `Rare Parts` for the inners. There is a gotcha here make sure the thread direction for the inner and outer match, it used to be that we could only find one thread direction for the inner, and we had to replace both tie rods sets to match. It seems like only recently parts suppliers have come out with a left/right hand thread so we can keep it how the cars came OEM. Read about it, For balljoints I used https://whiteheadperformance.com/product/datsun-240z-260z-280z-sankei-555-ball-joint-40160-a8625/ they are very high quality, however I think Moog would be acceptable for this part as well. The ball joints rusted after I installed them, maybe hit them with some clear coat spray paint before you install them.

@z8987 I feel like you could piece together those parts for a much cheaper rate. It looks like that "set" is just a mix of aftermarket rubber bushings, and the ones that are NLA (like the mustache bar bushings) are sources from energy suspension. Some of us dont swap the OEM mustache bar bushings because the OEM ones are hard to find, others don't mind any potential harshness added by poly. You should look through some old threads though, your 1970 chassis might have the miss-aligned differential setup, this makes the half-shafts have an angle to them rather than siting orthogonal to the rear hubs, I don't think this changes any of the bushings though. Here is a car parts diagram for the Z's it has the OEM part number as well. https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978 I usually order my OEM Nissan stuff through https://www.courtesyparts.com/ If you're cool with the price on that kit, it looks complete to me. What about ball joins and tie rods? you planning to do those too? Are there other rubber grommets that are shot and need to be replaced?

I don’t see a link? Can you add one?