Carl Beck

Hi Avery: I pretty much agree with what has been said - only want to add a few points... When water runs down the rear hatch glass - it pools up in the corners at the bottom. IF the rubber seal is actually sealed to the glass at that point - the water sits there and evaporates. IF NOT - then the water runs under the rubber seal and down into the window channel... where it sits until the paint fails and the metal starts to rust. So the first point is that you really need to get a new seal, and have it properly installed on the glass, then in the deck lid. Those spots in the corners around the rear deck lid glass/rubber - MIGHT still be very small or they might get larger under the seal.... At any rate they will NOT get better, only worse. They will also get worse quickly! Given the current rarity and associated high price of a solid Series I rear deck lid - I would highly recommend that you order a new rear glass seal, then pull the rear glass out of the deck lid. Take the deck lid to a good body shop and have them strip it - metal patch any small holes or area's that require repair, then repaint it. You need to look closely at the very bottom "lip" of the deck lid (where it overhangs the rear tail light finisher panels) . Make sure it's not starting to rust and if it is NOW is the time to fix it. It would seem that rust free Series I deck lids are now over $400.00 if you can find one for sale .. so you really do want to address these issues now, before they have much of a chance to worse.. See: <a href=http://zhome.com/Classic/CommonZRust/RustPrevention240Z.htm TARGET=NEW> Hidden Rust Area's Of The 240-Z</a>. To stop surface rust - you can sand the area to remove most of the surface rust - then treat the area with Ospho (a mild phosphoric acid solution that chemically converts Iron Oxide to Iron Phosphate). Ospho is a brand name - carried by most Automotive Paint Stores/Suppliers. Once the chemical conversion is complete - the area can be primed and painted. good luck, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Gang: The "weight" listed on the sticker under the hood - is the weight to be exerted by a mass, on the end of a lever, that is swing into the front bumper - to simulate the weight of the car traveling, depending on the requirement at the time, either 2.5 mph or 5 mph. Kinetic Energy released if the car hit an immovable object at either 2.5mph or 5mph.... The Vehicle Curb Weight is printed on a sticker in the glove box... required to be there by law for 1973, but was in place before that on the 240-Z's. Along with the tire inflation pressures... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Mohammed: Great to see you have the car on the road and are enjoying it. Thanks for Posting the Video... regards, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

How About A Picture of the data tag on the Drivers Door Jam??? This should be 12/70.... thanks, Carl B.

Hi Rob: I have several NOS Door Panels.... The discoloration you see is I believe the result of how the hardboard (cellulose compressed under heat and pressure in a form, usually with some type of bonding agent). It's fairly wet when worked - all my NOS Door Panels exhibit the same random staining... What looks like rust in the picture - is actually the adhesive used to bond the vinyl to the metal.. again all my NOS Door Panels have the same brown glue on them. Lastly - If Eiju tells you they are NOS - you can take it to the bank. Many of us know him personally and you won't find a more serious nor honest Z Car Enthusiast. FWIW Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hello Joris/Adrian: My copy looks like this.... This copy was a very old copy... not sure when it was made, but before dry ink photo copies were common.. the originals were very yellowed... Carl B. Clearwater, FL http://ZHome.com

Here you go Jim Carl B.

This repaint could be a real bondo wagon... I wouldn't consider buying it without a personal and very close inspection... yes it's a 69 production car - but seems to be missing the Door Jam Data Plate that was stamped with the production date... Past that - as has been mentioned before - you are looking at putting an additional $30K into a reasonable #2 restoration - or $40K+ into a #1 restoration.... This car would need most everything... it has the wrong dash, center console and steering wheel... about the only thing good on the interior might be the seats.. In Texas it's a $2,500.00.... are you willing to pay an additional $4K just for the VIN?... I'd rather find a 69 that has most, if not all of it's original parts - and which still has most of it's original paint so I could better see what I am getting into... Looks nice in a 15 foot beauty shot - and might be worth $6K as a driver to someone... but even then it will need an additional $6K spent to make it road worthy... the engine compartment is a real mess... Wonder what this puppy looks like underneath - note the seller is talking about "visible" rust area's - he says nothing about anything you can't see standing up... I might be a buyer at $3,500.00... just for the VIN... FWIW, Carl B.

For the vacuum advance to work - it has to be connected to a Ported Vacuum Source. When you go to wide open throttle - vacuum in the manifold drops, while the vacuum signal right behind the carb. increases... So you connect the vacuum line to the rear of the front carb. FWIW, Carl B.

With new hatch seals - 1) make sure they are all new - the large inner one, and the three smaller outer one's. 2) Place a dollar bill between the seals and the deck lid - close the deck lid.. the dollar should be hard to pull out. If it slides out easily - adjust the hatch lid tighter to the body. You have to do this all the way around the hatch lid/body. Many times the hatch lid is slightly warped... Sometimes - it isn't exhaust gas - it's gasoline vapor/fumes. In that case you have to replace all the vapor recovery lines in the back of the car - or eliminate them and seal the holes. Sometimes the OEM rubber seals around them, on the inside of the car are cracked and leaking exhaust gases. Yes - the tail light seals do harden over time and fail. The rear tail gate vinyl finisher on the 71-73 240-Z's needs to be in place and the seal around it has to be replaced. The foam rubber originally used 35+ years ago simple desolves... You have to remove it and clean the area and replace the foam rubber seal. Other wise exhaust gases come in through the latch itself... Yes - because of the aerodynamics of the Z - the exhaust gases are flowing from the relatively high pressure area behind the tail lights, into the relatively low pressure area in the cabin. When you roll the windows down, the air flow over the sides of the car, past the open windows, acts as much the same as air flow over a high chimney - it pulls air out of the cabin, thus lowering even more, an already low pressure area. Opening the floor vents in the kick panels as well as the Vents in the Fresh Air/ Heater helps to force air into the cabin thus raising the relative pressure in the cabin. The bottom line is that exhaust fumes in the cabin was never a problem when these cars were new.. so we have to know that it can be eliminated if enough time and effort is put into it. Adding the BRE Style rear spoiler also helps reduce exhaust fumes in the cabin, because it moves the relatively high pressure area behind the car - farther back away from the tail lights. It can be fixed so don't put up with it.. Good luck - Carl B.

Hi Ian: Darrel of Darrel's Datsun in Santa Clara, California was one of the few people that could actually make the 73 240-Z's and 74 260-Z's run properly with the Emissions Carb.'s. So when I was in that area around the mid-80's - I stopped by his shop to see how he was doing it. He had Nissan's "Fuel System Modifications Manual", an 85 page manual that pretty much laid out the processes and listed the various parts for the 3 Stages and the Modifications Plus fixes. I had never been able to find a copy of that Manual and Darrel was a very busy guy. He wouldn't sell me the manual, but I offered him $150.00 to photo copy his manual and send me the photocopy ( a couple of hours of Shop Time). Another Z Car Friend in the area, offered to stop by Darrel's and pick up the photocopy and mail it to me... he also stopped by from time to time to encourage Darrel to get it done... Looking through it I see that the fuel nozzles are to be replaced if they are ovaled out - but don't see any thing that recommends re-drill a fuel passage (it might be there somewhere, but I'd have to study this in far more detail than I have time to do..). There are also Technical Service Bulletins on the subject... that may or may not have been included in the Manual. Technical Service Bulletin TS73- 38 is HLS30 Carburetor Float Modifications and adjustment Procedure (HMB46W F2 and R2). 7 pages. See TS74-053, BE74--010 or the A.C. Section of the 260Z Service Manual. FWIW, Carl B.

You have already started in the right place - save your money. Then do it once and do it right - L28 Turbo.... Don't waste money in the mean time.... FWIW, Carl B.

As I recall - you need a bumper bar for a 70-72 only... aren't the rear uprights on the 73's spaced farther apart? Better ask for measurements between the uprights to compare with what you need. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Arne: The value drivers on the Series I cars are Matching Numbers and Mostly Rust Free body. If the car was sitting here in Florida/Georgia - it would sell for $2K to $3K. Which would mean that someone here back East would have to buy it for $2K, then add the shipping costs to get it here..$1K or more depending on the cost of fuel, so it most likely wouldn't sell. Non-matching numbers knocks it out of the Collector Market, so not too many people are going to put the money it would take to "refresh" it - into it at this point. Most buyers are willing to put $3K to $5K into mechanical repairs, upgrades etc - but the same people will not get involved in $3K to $5K worth of body work and paint... (we've seen all threads on dealing with Body Shops). There are still too many 240-Z's in the market with better bodies competing for buyers cash. True buyers here in the East will pay significantly higher prices for 240-Z's - but most of the time it's a solid body they are looking for and willing to pay for. good luck, Carl

I started selling cars in 1963 when a friend of mine's Mother purchased the local Pontiac/Olds Dealership (it's a long story). Having just been graduated from High School, I needed a summer job... Then later I worked my way through College selling cars and working in bars. One of the first things the New & Used Car Sales Manager told me was - "never believe what any customer tell you - they all lie through their teeth when it comes to making a deal on a car. They all think that it's OK to lie to the salesmen, because they have all been told that all car salesmen are dishonest, or it's just horse trading." Being a kid, I thought he may have had a point, but still believed that basically people were honest.. by the end of the summer I knew he was absolutely correct. People would patch or attempt to cover-up known problems with their trades (yes, fine sawdust in an A/T that was shot, stop-leak in radiators that were shot, etc.). The bottom line is - what goes around comes around. Used car salesmen can be just as dishonest as the public they deal with - only they get far better at it because they get to practice every day. The truth is most used car salesmen don't need to resort to outright dishonest practices, only because the average buyer is so stupid they don't understand the ramifications of the truth when they hear it...da... and that is Page 2... as Paul used to say.. Carl B.

Years ago - like back in the mid to late 70's I talked with the guys from Bob Sharp Racing when they were here in Daytona. All I can tell you is what they told me at the time... The earliest E88's had improved castings - so they were less likely to crack around the exhaust valve seats. The second type of E88's had the improvement castings around the exhaust valve seats and improved curvatures as well as smoother castings in the intake and exhaust ports that helped improve the flow. I have never found any Nissan documentation supporting this, but both Bob Sharp Racing and BRE ran the E88's on their L24's from 72 forward. Over the years it seems that the main problem with the E31's has been the fact that they do tend to develop cracks around the exhaust valve seats. So if you plan to use one be sure to have it checked before putting additional money into it. FWIW, Carl B.

The earliest heads marked E88 came on the last of the Series II - 1971 Late Model Year 240-Z's, and the first of the Series III 1972 Model Year. They had the exact same 42.4 cc combustion chambers as the E31. Very rare to see them anywhere today. The E88's that came on the regular production Series III cars had the same combustion chamber shape but they were 44.7 cc. Slight compression loss from the E31's but better flow. It would seem that you have one of the two above - you'd have to have cc'd them in stock condition to determine which was which. (no matter really at this point) The third E88's came on the 73 240-Z's - redesigned combustion chambers to meet the Emissions Standards and 47.8cc's .. The fourth type came on the 74 260-Z's here in the US ... 47.8cc with larger exhaust valves. Again Emissions Heads.. uck... The head you have pictured - with the valves in place - would seem to simply have been reworked already. Looks like larger valves were installed and the valves were un-shrouded. The head with no valves installed would see to be just clean 71/72 E88 (depends on the cc's). You need to cc the combustion chambers at this point, for either or both heads - to assure you are within whatever compression ratio you want to be running. FWIW, Carl

Had zcarlady photographed her car as well as the last car - she might have gotten the bidding up to $7,500.00 maybe higher. You can't expect people to buy what they can't see - or what your not willing to show them. Carl B.

Hi Mike (everyone): Nissan was able to fix the problem... more or less... after some time... From the Datsun Fuel System Modifications Manual: (related to hard re-starting) PERCOLATION: Percolation causes a richer than normal air-fuel mixture. It affects the carburetor float bowl and the high pressure fuel line (the outlet side of the fuel pump), and may cause hot start problems. Percolation can come about in several ways: 1. Heat Soak - back into the fuel pump and high pressure fuel lines can raise the pressure enough to unseat the float bowl needle valve. This condition is known as "after fill". 2. Float bowl evaporation may lower the float level while there is residual pressure in the fuel line. This pressure then forces an excess amount of fuel into the float bowl. 3. Fuel evaporates in the float bowl, and the resulting vapor pressure may not vent out quickly enough. The high pressure developed in the float bowl forces fuel into the intake manifold. After explaining what was causing the problem - Nissan did supply the parts necessary and the procedures to be followed - to fix the problem. Given that every fine detail had to be perfect, and every modification had to be made in the order Nissan specified when the cars were new - I seriously doubt that approach would be useful today, even if you could still get the Modification Parts Kits.. When all else failed.. Nissan suggested cutting a large hole in the hood - and mounting a Competition Hood Scoop over it. <a href=http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24781 TARGET=NEW>See the Hood Scoop Thread</a> FWIW, Carl B.

HI Chuck: The production date on your 73 would be 10/72. I have cars with VIN's ranging from HLS30 125955 to HLS30 129828 during 10/72. I have been colecting VIN, Production Date and Original Engine serial numbers for the 240-Z's for about 18 years now, but because many people do not want their information published - I keep a private data base for referece to questions like yours. FWIW, Carl

Oops... sorry.... da... not Kawamata...but - - Mr. Kawazoe was the VP that was in the US and assigned to work with D.C.... It also seems that the time allowed to Edit Posts is far too short ! Carl B.

Hi Alan: Could be simply because there were only a few cars involved, that it was more acceptable to simply buy them back when they didn't satisfy their customers. It would seem that in 1974, stricter standards for automotive emissions than those of 1973, may have existed in certain prefectures of Japan, but not on a National Level. According to the Japan Automobile Manufacturers Association, the National Laws that sat specific standards for the first time in Japan, for HC, NOx and which incorporated earlier standards for CO were released in Dec. of 72 and took effect in March of 73. They stayed the same until they were increased for the cars produced in the 1975 fiscal year. Which would explain why the L20A's could be used in the cars recalled or repurchased without modifications in 73 and 74. As the US Spec. 260-Z's did comply with the far more strict emissions standards in effect here in the U.S. for 1974, I would think that it would have been easier to meet the Japanese Standards that covered the period 73 though 75. Japan did set far more stringent standards for 1978 related to NOx... but then later delayed its actual implementation until 1985. The US Spec. 280-Z's did meet the 78 standards for 78, which were about the same as those originally proposed for Japan for 78. For that matter the Z32's could not meet the even more stringent US Emissions Standards for 1996, but they could continue to be sold in Japan. For the most part Japan's Automotive Emissions and Safety Standards followed, but lagged and sometimes far behind those of the U.S. While the Japanese Automobile Manufacturers were somewhat successful in gaining delays or lowering Emissions and Safety Standards here in the US, along with the US Manufacturers - they held far more power in delaying or holding Japanese Emissions and Safety Standards back in Japan. There is an interesting review of Japans Environmental Controls titled <a href="http://www.yale.edu/leitner/pdf/1999-01.pdf" TARGET=NEW> The Political Economy of Japanese Pollution Regulation</a>, by Michael F. Thies, UCLA and Frances Rosenbluth, Yale University. It's an interesting bit of Nissan trivia - but when NISSAN USA was reorganized in 1966 Mr. Katayama became President of Nissan Motors USA, and Mr. Kawamata as given the assignment of representing Nissan Motors Japan in legislative matters related to Automotive Emissions and Safety Standards here in the US.. Mr. Kawamata was an Engineer and fluent in English, he reported directly to the President of Nissan Motors Ltd. in that capacity. In 1967 he also became Chairman of the newly formed Japan Automobile Manufacturers Association (JAMA), he had previously served as Chairman of the Automotive Industrial Association (JAMA's predecessor). In this capacity he also indirectly represented Aichi Kikai, Isuzu, Kawasaki, Suzuki, Daihatsu, Toyota, Toyo Kogyo, Hino, Fuji Heavy Industries, Bridgestone Cycle, Honda, Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, and Yamaha for matters related to US Legislation. FWIW, Carl B.

That is such a creative piece of artwork - that it deserves to be painted one color - Snap-On Red... then maybe some accent's of white... Carl B.

HI Mike: Not to worry - I said "should be in the range" based on the fact that #207, 215, 216, 224,238, 239, 244, 258, 267, all have engines in that range. So "should be" was just my guess, based on a quick look at the data base... Engines and VIN's do seem to line up within broad ranges - usually within a four to six week range... Cars produced in Nov. of 69, that we have found - have had engine serial numbers between L24- 2122 and L24-2832... I should have given you the broader range to avoid concern... Most of the 500+ HLS30 cars produced in 1969, were produced in 11/69.. I'll add the data for #237 from the engine data plate to my data base... a new extension to the range... Yes, the engine data plates were screwed on. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Obewon: I would guess - looking at the picture you included.. that the door jam data plate was attached - as the holes from the original rivets would appear to have been filled... but are still visible. Did you mean - no door data plate was ever attached - when you got the car? FWIW, Carl B.