Carl Beck

How Much $$$ Also - I hope the Cad plating on your engine is in far better condition, than that shown on the 76 280Z.... for that matter I'd expect the entire engine bay to look far more original and clean as a a pin. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Panamared: The Z looks great... Once the paint and body work are done, it's all down hill from there. Talk about memories of being a kid.... McDonalds.... When I was in college, four of us shared a one bedroom apartment to hold expenses down (that's an understatement). At any given time, at least one of the guys worked part time at the large McDonalds right across from campus. Back then (64-68) if any burgers sat for more than a few minutes (30?) without being served - they were thrown out. After the rush hours at lunch and dinner there were of course always lots of burgers that didn't get sold. "Thrown out"??? no way... the guys always bagged them up and brought them home after work. We all lived on them for four years!!... To this day, I tell people I went to college on a McDonalds scholarship - and to this day I still get cravings for McDonalds cheeseburgers and fries! Nothing else will do..... FWIW, Carl B.

Be careful there Nissanman!! Years ago, one of our (Honeywell Aerospace) retired Master Machinist's son purchased a basket case classic car project. Car completely disassembled, boxes and boxes of parts all over the place. Of course all the chrome parts as well as many bits and pieces had to be re-plated. His son was sending the parts out to a shop a few hundred miles away - paying serious money for the work. When his Dad started looking at the quality of the work coming back - he remarked that it was very poor in his opinion. When his son told him the work was done by what was supposed to be one of the better shops doing "show quality chrome"... his Dad told him he could do a better job in the garage than that!. Within three months of that exchange - Dad had set up a metal finishing and home plating capability in the garage. As friends of the son started to see the quality of Dad's work vs the "professional shops" - - they all wanted Dad to do their parts as well. Long story - short - three years later Dad had 35 employees, two full time Chemists and a very large plating business. He was also doing MilSpec and Space Qualified plating for several aerospace and defense industries here in Florida... So be careful - I'd hate to see a Retired Gentleman sucked back into the fray - kind regards, Carl B.

Hi Alan: Good point - my bad.... Also, since the original question was ..."...where can I buy new gold cadmium bolts & nut"... I should also have pointed out the fact that many of the new replacement nuts, bolts, washers etc. sold by Nissan are now in fact Zinc plated first...Buy enough NOS parts and directly compare them with the replacement parts manufactured years later and you can see the slight difference. The price we all pay for Environmental controls. FWIW, Carl B.

Speaking of Electroplating, when you are trying to find the right company to do the job you want done - it is very important that you know specifically, technically and exactly what you want. Otherwise the Sales People will blow you off - and sell you what they have, not necessarily what you really wanted. Most plating shops and the people that sell their services will tell you that the original parts were Zinc plated - NOT TRUE. They will tell you that "yes" they do Cad. plating - NOT TRUE, they'll use Zinc anyway, then they will say that it doesn't matter, or that they are the same etc. NOT TRUE. Cadmium is NOT Zinc. Cadmium provides longer lasting protection and higher durability rates than Zinc. They can be close, but they are not the same. In the 60's and early 70's - Nissan Suppliers originally Cadmium Plated the items, then processed them through a Yellow Chromate bath. This results in the more or less gold looking part that has a rainbow of color flowing uniformly through it just under the surface of the gold color. The "original" finish that you want, if you want a near perfect restoration has to created in the same plating process, and even more importantly that final Yellow Chromate bath has to be exactly controlled. In the Mass Production of the original parts these processes are normally automated, so batch after batch the quality and appearance of the finish is uniform. During a "re-plating" process, done on very limited quantities of parts, at smaller plating shops, that process is most likely going to be done by human hands. Leave the Cad. plated parts in the Yellow Chromate bath for too short or too long a time - and the final finish will look quite different. High quality re-plating takes time and costs serious money, but high price alone doesn't equal high quality. Cadmium is a very heavy metal, and therefore also very toxic in concentrated solutions to the environment. For that reason, the use of Cadmium in electroplating has been severely limited in the electroplating industry in the U.S. Severely limited, but not eliminated - plating companies that do MilSpec. quality and Space quality work, can and do still use Cadmium if specified - - it is however VERY Expensive. (two to three times the cost of using Zinc) Most shops now substitute Zinc for Cadmium. Both Zinc and Cadmium result in a very light gray metallic coating - that are then subjected to the bath of Yellow Chromate that gives them that "Gold" finish we all recognize. Nonetheless Zinc and Cadmium absorb the Yellow Chromate at different rates and to different degrees. If the person controlling the process is very experienced, and very watchful, if the chemical solutions are carefully controlled... they can get Zinc plated parts to come out of the Chromate bath - with a final finish that is very very close to that of the Cad. plated parts... But high quality process control takes time and costs money... Does all this really matter? That's entirely up to you. Remember too that the final quality of the parts coming out of the plating processes -can be no better than the quality of the parts going in. Every nut, bolt, screw, washer and component part have to be clean, with uniform surfaces. Pitted, scarred and worn parts going in, will be just the same coming out. FWIW, Carl B.

Very Interesting to compare the words/description in the first auction by Yutakazz and the second by money$jewelry. You can also see why money$jewelry has a 92.9% feedback with only 12 reports coming in. As I said above at Post #2 - "IF it checks out as being rust free - solid floors, not patched...." It would appear that money$jewelry neglected to mention the "floorboards" having been fiber-glassed, where as Yutakazz made a point of tell you that detail... Nonetheless it looks like money$jewelry did put some additional time, effort and dollars into the car.. Just a good thing to keep in mind - "rust free" - is not the same as "never any rust damage". As Mull found, a "rust free" Z, just might really mean that all the rust was cut out and replaced with fiberglass and bondo... At any rate - in that part of the Country - with all the work and parts on the car - it was still a good buy at $6K, if you want a 240-z to drive. FWIW, Carl B.

Back in the day - - - I had seen about four of these systems installed. Crown sold a kit for both the 240-Z's and the later fuel injected 280Z's. A local Z mechanic, replaced the single S.U. used in the system with a side draft Weber 40 DCOE. He built his own adaptor plates - to mount the Weber in place of the S.U. As I recall these systems recommended no more than 8lbs of boosts... but several of the guys ran 10lbs for years.... O-Ringing the head was also recommended by the kit manufacturers at the time (mid-70's). I agree with Nissanman that the old school kits do not really compare with running an L28ET with the factory or newer engine management systems, ect. Nonetheless, for $300.00 if the entire kit is there it could be some really cheap fun.... as long as you don't over-use it and blow an engine. FWIW, Carl B.

If it checks out as being rust free - solid floors, not patched.. solid frame rails etc - the Buy-it-now seems about right for that area of the country... FWIW, Carl B

Hi Will: What Studebakers used a turbo? I remember in the mid 50's and early 60's they used a belt driven supercharger, that pressurized the carb.. (Golden Hawk and Avanti)... I still think the 63 Avanti was one of the best designs of the decade, and wouldn't mind having one today. I think the 62 Olds Jet-Fire was the first tubo from GM, followed by the 63 Corvair Spyders. FWIW, Carl B. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Bill: The Atlantic Z Club has a good list of OEM Cam's and Marking. <a href=http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/cam/index.htm TARGET=NEW>CAM SPEC.'s</a> Looks like the self oiling "A" cam came with the N42, N47 and P79 Heads before 8/81. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Daryl: Good to see you here. As everyone has mentioned - it's a great group. Daryl is #139 on the IZCC's Z Car Original Owners Register. I think we have about 156 Original Owners on the ZCOOR now. However we are starting to see some of the Z's being sold, or turned over to the second generation within the family. Good to hear your still driving yours... There must be some kind of Guinness Record for total number of years owned by the original owners for any specific Sports/GT there somewhere. On average that's 1,842.5 original ownership years. kind regards, Carl B. Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

The "easy" way to do it - is to just remove the side window glass. If you have a Snap-On type "wobble" extension, and if you grind down a longer socket, such that it fits over the threaded stud to reach the nut, but is still short enough to fit in the covered area.. it is possible to remove/install the mirror with the side glass in place. Best advice - just pull the glass and be done with it. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Mark: What type/brand of racing fuel are you running and what octane? thanks, Carl B.

Jim is correct - that would be a "Spacer-Rear Spring. 55045-E4100 Most of the time when you remove the rear struts and take them apart - you don't notice the spacer because it is usually stuck up in the insulator. They do however go bad, and they can fall apart or out. If you look up inside the insulator and see metal - it is most likey the spacer has crumbled and fallen out... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Guys: I just received my copy of NISSAN SPORT... David Muramoto reports on his interview with Mr. Brock... at last falls SCCA Run-Off's... "Brock remains a keen observer of both Nissan's commercial and motorsports activities. As one who convinced corporate marketing of the value in offering a Red/White/Blue "BRE" edition back in the day, to coordinate with his racing success, Brock was equally convinced Nissan Motorsports was getting excellent promotional value out of supporting grassroots events like the Runoff's" I am amazed that Mr. Brock specifically mentioned the car that is the subject of this thread last fall at the Runoff's - then when ask about it this month - he commented to Ron only on the person selling what was reported to be "the car" ... and no real comment on the car nor its concept to begin with. I find this very interesting to say the least.... At any rate the new owner will now have Mr. Brocks words to support the fact that BRE did at least propose marketing a BRE Edition 510.... along with what would appear to be some of the original sketches supporting that from the seller..... Amazing turn of events... and now a bit more history is added to the knowledge pool.... FWIW, Carl B.

Oh.. now I note the "Dryer" on the inner-fender....da... I ask the seller a question about the data tags - he assures me that it's just bad pictures and in fact the numbers are all 357. I suggested he take the engine data tag out - clean it - lay it flat and take new pictures. Also to take clear pictures of the drivers door jam data tag. We'll see what happens... FWIW, Carl B.

I agree. I don't see anything on the car that would indicate Dealer Installed A/C. I had #357 recorded for several years...as the seller said, first in N.C. in the Winston-Salem area, then later reported in N.Y. Is it possible that the Door and Engine Tags were simply stamped wrong at the Factory? Or perhaps the Vin's were stamped first into the Data Tags, then the wrong set was selected, stamped with the correct engine number and put in the car? So far we have no reports of #359 being Found... I wonder if the data tags on that car would show #357.... Interesting car none the less... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi David (everyone) I really don't believe that you will see fuel prices rise to "world norms" here in the U.S. for decades, if then. That is because "world norms" are far more driven by excessive taxes, and very inefficient refinery, transportation and retail systems than we enjoy here in the U.S. There is no question in my mind however, that fuel costs will continue to catch up with inflation here, and will rise past that; as China, India and the rest of S.E. Asia bring another 3 BILLION drivers on line over the next two decades. But even then, Fuel will still be a minor cost to us in the U.S. relative to the casts of Depreciation, Insurance and State Taxes. With cars costing less than $10K - all the significant operating expenses come down with the sales price of a new car. From a marketing forecast perspective, as we decimate what used be considered the American Middle Class (Upper Middle, Middle and Lower Middle in Sociological terms).... by importing major percentages of our goods from China, India and other third world countries, while we shut down all American Manufacturing enterprises; and out-source the higher paid "knowledge workers" jobs {info. technology, software engineering, and indeed ever increasing percentages of all engineering and technology related jobs) ... At some point fairly soon - there won't be a very large middle class here in the U.S. able to afford a $25,000.00+ automobile. FWIW, Carl B.

Oh.. by the way. In the top photo the Z with #38 is most likely HLS30 00006, and was driven by Fitzy.. the Z with #33 is the car that Bob Sharp won the 1972 and forward C-Production Championships in.. {note the much reinforced roll cage in #33}. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi David: The top photo is Bob Sharp Racing aka BSR the bottom one is the BRE Team FWIW, Carl B.

What a shame.... "repainted a few years ago".... That will hunt it alot more than likely. 1. Why would a well cared for, 39K mile 280Z need to be repainted in the first place? 2. What is hidden under that new paint? 3. No mention of the quality of the repaint - makes you wonder why also.... With its original factory paint in near perfect condition - and that mileage - it should be selling in the $14K to $16K range.... Unless some buyer can go inspect the repaint very carefully, I doubt it will bring much over $12K at the most on E-Bay... Additionally, the Dealer having an on-line Ad. at $11,995.00 doesn't help the seller.... The car is most likely on "consignment" there and actual owner is most likely looking to get $10K out of it... All that said - if one were to go physically inspect the car - and it checks out well - even at $12K it would be far less expensive than paying $7,500.00 for a solid 78 Z, then having to "refresh" it yourself. FWIW, Carl B.

HI Victor: nice video.... I got motion sick just watching it... The 510 sounds great - tell us what mod's you've done to it... Carl B. 72 510 Wagon

Hi Blue: Driving "safely" is one thing, driving "defensively" is another and driving competitively still another. They can all be viewed conceptually as being progressive in nature. Your Dad can teach how to drive safely, getting you to really comprehend why that is so important is another matter all together. You may not believe it - but I was 17 once - it lasted for a whole year. For the most part I can remember very clearly most of the weekends -vbg- Let's face it, it seems to be human nature that we have to actually learn lessons by our own experiences. If that wasn't the case, history would not so often repeat itself. I can tell you many different times, in many different ways, exactly what happens when cars in front of you on the Freeway CRASH at 70+ mph. How my car felt when it spun out of control in a panic stop and/or what specific counter measures applied to the steering and/or braking were needed and used. However, until you personally have that physical experience and practice those counter measures until they become automatic - all my teaching, talking, lecturing amounts to only that... talk. I've been to several different drivers training courses and schools over the years. Most of them start with a course they name "Defensive Driving". In truth, Defensive Driving is about 50% mental preparation and 50% physical control of the vehicle. If you drive on the streets for the next five years - you will not have the opportunity to actually learn nor in turn, train yourself, nor develop the instinctive reflexes required for a safe high speed off-road trip, a safe high speed lane change, nor the high speed obstacle avoidance techniques that you would by attending any of these courses. They are held at race tracks for the most part, because there on a closed course, in a safe progressive manor you can be first taught the procedures, then practice the processes involved in all the earlier mentioned maneuvers. Physical control of the vehicle in turn, is really the the first part of competition driving. When you talk to your Dad, tell him that there are really two places a young man can direct his instinctive urges to compete; on the streets or on the special tracks/courses set up for that purpose. Personally, I took my son's to the tracks/courses provided by several local sports car clubs. There they associated with like minded individuals, that encouraged safe driving on the streets - and rigorous competition on the tracks/courses. Like everything in life, energy has to be focused and directed for it to either destructive or constructive. The drivers training courses developed over decades by the professionals involved, provide the best focus and direction - - - - after that it's up to the individual. kind regards, Carl B. BTW - many insurance companies offer greatly reduced rates for young divers that have successfully completed many of these courses.

Hello Blue: I want to encourage you in your quest for more knowledge related to automobile mechanics. However I'd recommend first things first. Go learn to drive that 280ZX safely, and then learn to dive it nearer its limits. You'll want to do both under the experienced and watchful eyes of a professional. Talk your Dad into attending one of the many fine Defensive Driving and Competition Drivers Training Courses offered by any one of the Drivers Training Schools in your area. For example: <a href=http://www.1800bepetty.com/SafeDriving.aspx TARGET=NEW> Richard Petty Driving Experience</a> Mostly the classes are in Atlanta, GA but also listed at the Kentucky Motor Speedway. Track location: Kentucky Motor Speedway 4760 Sparta Pike Sparta, KY 41086 (888) 652-7223 Second - go find a well used 280ZX that you can buy for a grand or so - then learn on that one, before attempting anything on your Dad's ZX.... matter of fact, he might be talked into helping you pay for one... -vbg- good luck, Carl B. Yes - I've raised two sons... now in their mid 30's...

Hi Kats: Speaking of 240-Z's and Z-432's. Do you know if any of the Fairlady 240-Z's that were raced by the Factory supported teams are being restored by private owners today in Japan? Or for that matter any of the Fairlady 240-Z's that were raced by any of the famous private owners. After the Fairlady 240-Z's were released in Japan. regards, Carl B. BTW - you may recall that the very earliest L24's, that were planned for the DATSUN 240-Z's did have a plastic fan. That was the L24 with triple side drafts, and 175 HP - recall the early 1969 Sales Brochures - that engine was however killed by the US Emissions Standards that took effect in early 70.