Carl Beck

Hummm..... the Emergency Brake Cable..... changing it out... or replacing it after it's lost... Lost?.... wonder why the previous owner didn't replace it? It's simple as pie....once you figure out how to break the rusted, corroded, or gummed up with undercoating - length adjustment nut/stud loose. It's simple as pie... once you figure out how the clips and mounts work. Once you figure out that you have to strip the cable itself, back from the cable shield - to get the cable and shield in/out of the body mounts. Figuring it out is one thing - getting your hands up in the right position to do it is another. (note: nothing to that as long as you have the driveshaft and rear-end out of the car) It's simple as pie... to get the clips out of the mounts above the differential.... getting them back in, well that ain't fun... It's simple as pie .... if you have the car up on a lift. Getting it up on jack-stands, at the right height that you can lay on your back, and have room to get your arm and hands up around the differential, yet not to much room that you can't reach the cable in the mounts........ Well, I'll just say that I'll finish mine up the next time I have the car on a lift somewhere... It's simple as pie... If you remember, for the fourth or fifth time.... to put the e-brake cable back in place BEFORE you put the rear suspension and differential back in the car......da.... I hate to be cynical... but this is just one of my pet-peeves.... has more to do with me and my experiences than the actual design of the system... when it was put together with everything new... It's really simple... really it is.... no kidding... honestly... I agree with Will - get a copy of the Factory Service Manual... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Al: Thanks for the feedback. I'm glad it worked out for you. It's always good when some of the men working at the Part Counter also happen to own or have owned 240-Z's.... Carl B.

Hi Mike: The problem with "blending" paint on the hood or fenders is - after several years, the new paint will no longer look like the old paint, because they have now both aged over different time frames. In which case, you will see the blend lines themselves start to show up.. - and when they are on the hood or front fenders, they always look nasty... I'd shoot for color matching.. and If I had too, I'd let the color be a tad off.. at least that way you'll have some body lines to hid any differences. If the color is way off - they need to try again simply to have an acceptable job by todays standards.. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Terence: Why don't you tell us a little more about your Z ie Mileage, condition, Price... Also what "value" do you expect to insure it for? Past that - I don't know who you checked with at Hagety - but as far as I know, they don't have any set mileage limits. The agents will usually tell you that Classic, Collectible of Special Interest Automobiles are not usually driven over 3000 miles per year. The truth is most of them aren't drive an average of 1000 miles per year. If you want to take your Classic Z to work, to show your co-workers once in a while, or to take a cute secretary out to lunch - there is no hard and fast rule that says you can't. The hard and fast rule is that you can not use the car "as daily transportation" such as driving it back and forth to work every day or every other day. Nor can you use it to replace your daily transportation, when your driver is tied up in the shop etc. The intended use - is the issue. If you intend to drive the car to your place of employment to show it off - that's fine. If you intend to use the car a couple days per week to keep the mileage on you leased BMW... then that's not fine. You see - Special Line Automotive Insurance Carriers are limited by most State Laws... to selling coverage NOT already offered by Full Line Carriers... hence the ban on using the car for daily transportation needs.. Also don't confuse "Agreed Value" with "Stated Value" or "Actual Cash Value".... Don't just believe the guy selling you insurance either - READ your policy and if it doesn't clearly say "AGREED VALUE" as in "in case of a total loss the company will pay the Agreed Value".... and/or something like .. "the company will pay up to the Agreed Value to repair or replace your vehicle"... If the words Agreed Value are not in your Policy, or written on the declarations page.... you don't have an Agreed Value at all... If you are planning on driving the car to work a couple of times per week - stick with the regular insurance carriers.. and accept the fact that if your in an accident, the Claims Adjustor will want to total you Z for something around $1,500.00 to $2,500.00... The real benefit of Classic Car Insurance - is having an Agreed Value #1 - so no hassles if something happens to your baby... but also saving a thousand or so dollars per year on premium costs, while getting far better coverage. Personally, I've been with Hagerty for years and years - you couldn't get to change.. FWIW, Carl B.

HI Zack: Thanks for the update - do you know where the car was originally sold/titled? regards, Carl B.

Even when the tensioner hasn't popped out - it is not easy to get the chain back over the cam gear. Take a lot of force to stretch all the slack of of the metal links... Most mechanics wind up using a screwdriver to get a little extra leverage. Additionally, driving the wedge in to hold the tensioner in place, you wind up shortening up the available slack in the chain. Sometimes, backing off ever so slightly on the wedge - will give you that extra fraction of a mm.. to finally get the chain back in place. I wouldn't give up too soon... you may just need to use a little more force and take a little more time. good luck, Carl B.

Hi Dave: Looking back at everything I have - it would appear that 1. The Parts Catalogs show 08/73 as the "From" date for the rear anti-sway bar, and "Up-To" of 07/73 as the rear bar being "optional". 2. It looks like the Nissan rear anti-sway bar always ran around the front of the diff. You had to drill your own holes in the floor to install the mounts. 3. The rear anti-sway bar that runs around the rear of the diff. along with it's mounting brackets was offered by BRE in 1970. I couldn't find any pictures of the BSR bar... so far I don't know what Bob Sharp sold... So at this point it looks like the mounting hardware you have was a BRE product.. FWIW, Carl B.

Hardly a "JDM 240z"... It's a Datsun 240-Z with lots of mod.'s. Can't remember how much the last one brought... but looking at the paint on this one, it will most likely bring less than the Orange one did. FWIW Carl

Good point. Sometimes we forget just how rare the "HS" Z Cars are. Of the 240-Z's produced less than 6% were Right Hand Drive Models. With about 3% sold in Japan and some 2.8% exported. Of the something less than 10,000 HS30's produced in total - I wonder how many of them are still in existence? FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Zup (everyone) : I believe that the small body change was preformed by some previous owner. I note the two holes drilled in the panel on the orange car - most likely they were there to mount a front spoiler, and the lip of that panel was bent out, to clear wider wheels, wheels with the wrong off-set and/or tires. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Will: That sounds like a third question, in a way. At least it's a subset of a detailed list of changes and when they were made (yes/no?). The Series I and Series II cars shared may individual parts, components and sub-systems. So the list your talking about would have to be only the parts that were unique to the Series I cars, which could also not be moved easily. As you point out, that would most likely be components of the uni-body itself. I think I remember the car you are talking about - and the same was true when we looked at S30-0002 wasn't it? The VIN stamp seemed to be the only part of the body that matched the early cars... We'd have to give that some serious investigation... because several things even on the Series I body changed during the calender year and then carried over to the Series II cars. There are several things on the first 1000 or so cars, that are unique to them... Nonetheless a list of "Verification Items" would be very useful. The first thing on that list would be to have all the original data plates, firewall stamping and original engine present and correctly matching. Tough question... if the "move" was from a Series I body to a Series II body. A little easier to answer if the "move" was from a Series I to a Series III or IV. FWIW, Carl

Hi deadflo (eveyone) According to Nissan's TSB TS70-42: The begining serial numbers for cars that got the improved rear finisher with the Access Holes are: Cars with Black Interiors HLS30 02830 HLS30 03327 (California models) Cars with Brown or Blue Interiors HLS30 03881 HLS30 04364 (California models) NISSAN USA, Sales and Marketing constantly sought feedback from their Authorized Dealers as to what the end Customers were happy with or not happy with. Thoes reports then went directly back to the Factory. In turn, many items were changed or improved during the calender year. The rear tail light finisher is one example.. Hub caps that flew off - were another Shocks that leaked before their expected life were another Front End wonder at high speed was another Front End Shakes were another Doors that wouldn't stay firmly in the open position Weak batteries for both cold and hot climates Where ever possible all these area's of dissatisfaction were addressed as soon as possible. Some, like the one above were addressed with Technical Service Bulletins - others were simply running production changes, that did not seem to require a TSB... and we may still be missing some of the TSB's.. This process continued though 70 and 71 in earnest, and by 72 most all areas mentioned by the existing customers were taken care of. That is one reason many people, myself included consider the 1972 DATSUN 240-Z's to be the best of breed. 73 would have been even better, had it not been for the Federal Requirements for Saftey and Emissions. FWIW, Carl

Hi Dave (everyone): I don't think you missed anything, but I'd say that what started out as one question - morphed into a different one. When I originally wrote the article about the Series I cars being sold and titled as 1969, 1970 and 1971 Model Year Cars.... thus leaving all of us wondering just which car someone had when they said they had a "71"... The attempt was to define the Series, with the fewest visual clues that could be used to make a "distinction" between them. It was NOT to document all details changes of all parts or components. Dave originally ask, "what is the TRUE definition of "Series I"" I believe that it is a completely different question to ask, "what are all the fine details that are found on the Series I cars and at what point in time do they appear?" Looking at the exchange between 240znz and I - it seems possible that the two questions and their associated answers are at least part of the reason we don't understand each others statements or questions, to one another. Confusing isn't it? So I would respectfully suggest that we treat the two questions as just that - two questions. Answer to Question #1 - ie. What Is The Definition of "Series I"? The definition of a Series I car would be: *Fresh Air vents in the rear hatch *240-Z Script on the rear quarter panels *Knob used to adjust seat back *140 psi Oil Pressure gauge & Speedo that starts at 20mph * Plastic Tool Covers behind seats * Lever release type seat belts * Steering wheel with pressed indents Then the definition a Series II car would be: *Fresh Air vents moved to the Quarter Panel *Circle Z replaces the 240-Z Script on Quarter Panel *Lever Controlled flip forward seats *Push button release on seat belts *Steering wheel with stamped out holes Then the definition of a Series III (1972 Model Year) car would be: *Dash with Cig. Lighter by hazard warning switch *Redesigned Center Console - with ashtray behind shift lever * Type B transmission - rear end moved rearward - and rear lower transverse link with "bowed out" area * 5" steel wheels standard Then the definition of the Series IV (1973 Model Year) car would be * 2.5 mph bumpers * Emissions control Flat Top Carb.'s * Lighted Center Dash Finisher * Windshield Wipers with "intermittent" position added In the above - I'd tried to leave out any items that were common to more than one Series. Also many items that would be hard to see, without getting in the car or under the hood. Remember the goal is to be able to "distinguish" between the Series by looking at them .. not to document every detail. While the use of Series identifications is needed here in North America to clear up any confusion caused by Nissan and their Authorized Dealers sales and titling procedures - it may not be needed outside the US. Nonetheless, while it may not be necessary to use Series designations outside the US, it does not mean that they can not be applied to 240-Z's out side of North America. (if the definitions above are correct). So the question to our guests from outside the US is - looking at the definitions above - do your 240-Z's for 1970, 1971, 1972 and 1973 agree with all the basic elements of each Series? - - - - -- - - - - - Detail Changes - -- a long time goal- -- To Pin Down 100's of detailed changes, that took place over the calender years - we would need confirmation of parts on pure stock, pure original cars and/or technical documentation from Nissan. I'd venture to say that something close to 99.5% of our now 33+ year old cars - have had more than one previous owner, and almost none that haven't had parts changed or replaced. (I say almost none because I do know of a couple cars that are almost - as they left the show-room floor - and only one 78 that is exactly as it left the showroom floor). Past the above type cars, we'd have to have at least five or ten cars, with the same build dates, that had the same identical original part... This would be a very major undertaking, not to mention the verification effort needed. The Concours Z effort is an attempt to document the fine details of only the Series I cars, and that effort is still a major task with a very long way to go... At any rate, as everyone said - it's been interesting FWIW, Carl B.

Hi datsun40146 (everyone): First let me say that I applaud your efforts. I like the idea of having the results of a day's work in a wind tunnel. My problem is I don't know "why" I like that idea! I have read the thread on HybridZ... and Personally, I have no idea what specific tests can be conducted in a wind tunnel, nor how the effects of air flow over, under, around the car are actually measured. (what instruments?, how is the car connected to them?). Because of that lack of knowledge, I have no real idea of exactly what data or information will be reported. For example - aside from viewing the air flow over , around or under the body, and then guessing at their effect - what test instruments are attached to the car in the wind tunnel, that actually measure down force, lift, or drag? What instruments are in the wind tunnel that actually measure air speed at various points along the car - or are there any? In the Car & Driver road test done years ago - they hooked up test equipment that measured changes in the ride height of the car as it was running on the road, and thus computed pounds of lift or down force at the wheels. Is that type of equipment used in the wind tunnel? Isn't the coefficient of drag simply calculated based on the profile of the frontal area of a car? It's not actually derived from measurements taken in a wind tunnel is it? Are Down Force and Lift actually measured? Aside from viewing laminar flow and turbulence, then identifying areas of high or low pressure based on observation - maybe a little more detail about exactly what information or data would result from a wind tunnel set up would be helpful. That is to say, what is actually measured there and how is it measured - as opposed to being calculated. Maybe some real details would help raise the contribution levels.. It is not so much a matter of what works and what doesn't - as it is a matter of knowing that something works well enough for either your intended purpose, or well enough to justify the expense of adding it. I thing VaGus510 ask a good question related to the cost benefit of a wind tunnel vs. a CFD model as well. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Chris: A few possible answers to that question come to mind. 1. You won't live that long, even if the car runs that long.. 2. Far less miles at $2.75 per gallon, than it took to pay for it when C & D conducted their tests!! 3. It is not so much a matter of the improvement paying for itself - as it is a matter of you being willing to pay whatever is necessary to make your Z Car even MORE GREEN (so to speak). A 0.2 mpg increase in the efficiency of your Z at 70 mph, over time might result in some poor student in China being able to add a gallon of cheap gas to his Toyota, or someone in India being able to get to the Customer Call Center - in time to take your calls on a Customer Hot Line... 0.2 of a mile per gallon increase, means that on a 15 gallon tank of gas - instead of running out of gas 3 miles from the nearest gas station - you can coast up to pump. FWIW, Carl BTW - at Post 7 Chris mentioned Ben's article - and by mistake I quoted Arne's reference to the C & D article.... da... hope everyone figured that out...

Hi Chris: Us "Mericans" don't call the BRE Spook - "stock"!! Actually, according to the Car & Driver Tests - it was quite easy to beat the "stock" Nissan equipped car. Car & Driver said Nissan's front chin "spoiler" was so small as to be all but worthless. Adding the OEM rear spoiler then made the situation worse, as it put significant down force on the rear, and thus caused farther lift on the front. The BRE "Spook" (Spoiler and Scoop) put things back in balance, by adding significant down force on the front - that in turn worked well with the Nissan/BRE rear spoiler. The added benefit of the Spook was additional air directed into the radiator, with ducts for better brake cooling. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Arne: You can find a copy on the Z Car Home Page: <a href=http://zhome.com/ZAerodynamics/AeroMillspaughPart1.htm TARGET=NEW> AERODYNAMICS by Ben Millspaugh </A> FWIW, Carl B.

According to TSB TS72-29: There is no provision in the vehicle wiring harness of early model 240-Z vehicles (serial number HLS30 01456). The TSB tells the Dealers how to install the wiring and new glass with the rear window defroster Lines, in cars that did not come though with them. FWIW, Carl B.

Because Australia received so few cars and usually well into the Model Year, people there may not need to use the Series number to clearly identify their cars. Here in the States we use the Series number to more clearly identify which series car we actually have. Our Datsun Dealers sold/titled Series I cars as 1969 Datsun 2dr cpe., 1970 Datsun 2dr cpe and 1971 Datsun 2dr cpe. I would guess at some point, someone had to invent the word "series". However it's been around for a long time now. In the context that we are using it here, it is a very common term and practice in the Automotive Field; used to distinguish one production run from another which contained identifiable changes, yet not major enough to define a new Model. It seems to have become popular here in the US with the British and German Cars imported Post WW-II, because they made rolling production changes though-out their model years. Most American Manufacturers held any changes until the next Model Year. I'm not sure which article you are refereing to - but this one dealing with Production Changes includes the rearward move of the differential. <a href=http://zhome.com/History/DesignChanges.htm TARGET=NEW> Production Changes</a> FWIW, Carl B.

Hi James: That's an interesting statement. Can you provide a little more information as to why you believe it is true as it relates to the RHD HS30 cars? You later Post - that your early car contains all the items that we would consider to be a Series I car, and that it was most likey produced in 1970. thanks, Carl B.

This is a "Product" that should be produced and sold. Mounting of the choke lever and cables is one of the few truly stupid things on the 240-Z. FWIW, Carl B.

Production for the 1972 Model Year Datsun 240-Z's sold in North America ended 08/72. To date the highest VIN we have recorded is HLS30 100262. Production for the 1973 Model Year Datsun 240-Z's sold in North America started 08/72. To date the lowest VIN we have found for the 73 Model Year is HLS30 1200031 with a build date of 08/72. Nissan started the VIN's on the 1973 Model Year 240-Z's at HLS30 120xxx so that the 73 Models were easily identified or differentiated from the 72's and earlier. The 1973 Emissions and Safety Requirements from the Federal Government were far stricter... thus the change in the carb.'s and the 2.5 mph bumpers... The 73 Models were 50 State Compliant. FWIW, Carl B.

128501 maybe ? Carl B.

Oh.. by the way... In my opinion one of the best and most useful "luxury" tools you can have in the garage is a portable gas welding set. Home Depot has fairly good one's for $279.00 (Lincoln Electric brand)... Harbor Freight has one for $259.00. To me "luxury" tools are the one's that you buy after you have a solid basic set of hand tools. They are the one's that it's mostly a luxury to own, not a necessity. Things like a dedicated buffing motor/wheel, an aluminum floor jack, a good parts washing station, a bead blasting cabinet and a huge compressor etc etc. You can gas weld just about anything on a car with that set-up, it will cut steel about 1/4" thick easily and it's a great help in breaking rusted nuts/bolts loose. Need to bend some metal? Build an engine dolly?... fix things that are metal and broken? You won't use it every day - but it sure is great to have it when you need it. FWIW, Carl B.

Steel turns orange/red hot at about 1800 degrees F... An oxy/acet torch put's out about 6000 degrees F MAPP gas - burned in ambient air is about 3000 degrees F (almost twice that if feed with oxygen) Propane burned in ambient air is about 2400 degrees as I recall... The flame temperature is only one aspect of heating that nut. The concentration and penetration rates are just as important. If you hold an oxy/acet torch on that nut - in a few seconds the nut will start to turn orange/red hot.. So fast that the heat will not have the time to be soaked away by the stud, which is screwed into an aluminum head.. If you use that MAAP or Propane Torch - burning ambient air - held there long enough it will heat that nut to orange/red - but it will take so long that it will also heat the stud and start to melt the aluminum head. With the stud and head as heat sinks... you'll likely run out of gas before you see a steel nut glow red hot... So - no - the Benzomatic won't do the job (not even close). It will sometimes work on lesser frozen nuts that simply require the application of some heat ... but not usually on rusted/frozen exhaust manifold nuts... nor header pipe nuts.. FWIW, Carl B.