Carl Beck

HI Victor: nice video.... I got motion sick just watching it... The 510 sounds great - tell us what mod's you've done to it... Carl B. 72 510 Wagon

Hi Blue: Driving "safely" is one thing, driving "defensively" is another and driving competitively still another. They can all be viewed conceptually as being progressive in nature. Your Dad can teach how to drive safely, getting you to really comprehend why that is so important is another matter all together. You may not believe it - but I was 17 once - it lasted for a whole year. For the most part I can remember very clearly most of the weekends -vbg- Let's face it, it seems to be human nature that we have to actually learn lessons by our own experiences. If that wasn't the case, history would not so often repeat itself. I can tell you many different times, in many different ways, exactly what happens when cars in front of you on the Freeway CRASH at 70+ mph. How my car felt when it spun out of control in a panic stop and/or what specific counter measures applied to the steering and/or braking were needed and used. However, until you personally have that physical experience and practice those counter measures until they become automatic - all my teaching, talking, lecturing amounts to only that... talk. I've been to several different drivers training courses and schools over the years. Most of them start with a course they name "Defensive Driving". In truth, Defensive Driving is about 50% mental preparation and 50% physical control of the vehicle. If you drive on the streets for the next five years - you will not have the opportunity to actually learn nor in turn, train yourself, nor develop the instinctive reflexes required for a safe high speed off-road trip, a safe high speed lane change, nor the high speed obstacle avoidance techniques that you would by attending any of these courses. They are held at race tracks for the most part, because there on a closed course, in a safe progressive manor you can be first taught the procedures, then practice the processes involved in all the earlier mentioned maneuvers. Physical control of the vehicle in turn, is really the the first part of competition driving. When you talk to your Dad, tell him that there are really two places a young man can direct his instinctive urges to compete; on the streets or on the special tracks/courses set up for that purpose. Personally, I took my son's to the tracks/courses provided by several local sports car clubs. There they associated with like minded individuals, that encouraged safe driving on the streets - and rigorous competition on the tracks/courses. Like everything in life, energy has to be focused and directed for it to either destructive or constructive. The drivers training courses developed over decades by the professionals involved, provide the best focus and direction - - - - after that it's up to the individual. kind regards, Carl B. BTW - many insurance companies offer greatly reduced rates for young divers that have successfully completed many of these courses.

Hello Blue: I want to encourage you in your quest for more knowledge related to automobile mechanics. However I'd recommend first things first. Go learn to drive that 280ZX safely, and then learn to dive it nearer its limits. You'll want to do both under the experienced and watchful eyes of a professional. Talk your Dad into attending one of the many fine Defensive Driving and Competition Drivers Training Courses offered by any one of the Drivers Training Schools in your area. For example: <a href=http://www.1800bepetty.com/SafeDriving.aspx TARGET=NEW> Richard Petty Driving Experience</a> Mostly the classes are in Atlanta, GA but also listed at the Kentucky Motor Speedway. Track location: Kentucky Motor Speedway 4760 Sparta Pike Sparta, KY 41086 (888) 652-7223 Second - go find a well used 280ZX that you can buy for a grand or so - then learn on that one, before attempting anything on your Dad's ZX.... matter of fact, he might be talked into helping you pay for one... -vbg- good luck, Carl B. Yes - I've raised two sons... now in their mid 30's...

Hi Kats: Speaking of 240-Z's and Z-432's. Do you know if any of the Fairlady 240-Z's that were raced by the Factory supported teams are being restored by private owners today in Japan? Or for that matter any of the Fairlady 240-Z's that were raced by any of the famous private owners. After the Fairlady 240-Z's were released in Japan. regards, Carl B. BTW - you may recall that the very earliest L24's, that were planned for the DATSUN 240-Z's did have a plastic fan. That was the L24 with triple side drafts, and 175 HP - recall the early 1969 Sales Brochures - that engine was however killed by the US Emissions Standards that took effect in early 70.

Hi ddezso: Yes - as mentioned by others, you remove the 4 bolts/nuts that hold the driveshaft on the hub {see #7}, disconnect the E-Brake Cable and loosen the bolts on the inner side of the Transverse Link {one on the front at the Differential case mounting front member - see #9 and the one on the other end} Disconnect the Brake Line! Put a floor jack under the rear hub to hold it in place {the rear of the car should be on jack stands at this point} - - Then take the 3 nuts off the top strut mount - let the jack down, move it out of the way and push down on the rear transverse link - and you should be able to pull the strut down, lay it toward the outside of the car... out past the outside of the rear fender arch. Then you can put a spring compressor on the spring - and change the shocks/springs etc. Actually you can do the rears without a spring compressor - but since you need a spring compressor for the fronts anyway - might as well use it. FWIW, Carl B.

According to the owner, these were brought to America, Road Atlanta by a team from Japan - and left here. Something different.... If you are a Buyer - let me know FWIW, Carl B.

Hi ddezso: If you don't have a can or three of Kroil Penetrating Oil, get on-line and order it. Nothing, I repeat NOTHING works as well {not even close}. Spray the lock pin from the top and let it set a few minutes - Once you remove the lock pin, spray Kroil on both ends of the spindle pin, and into the hole the lock pin came out of. Spray it a couple of times per day for a couple of days if possible. Jack the car up from the rear one day, spray the Kroil into the shoulder of the spindle pin, and into the hole the lock pin came out of - and let it creep down into the transverse link over night.... reverse the next day.... jack the car up from the front... Believe me when I tell you that this will make a huge difference in how easily the spindle pins come out {or not}. For that matter - it's just as easy to drop the struts off the car, with the transverse link attached... lay the strut on it's side - and let the Kroil work it's way down the spindle pin and into the transverse link. The more and longer you can apply Kroil and let it soak in - the better off you'll be. Also, in extreme cases, if that spindle pin still won't budge - with the assembly off the car you can apply serious heat to the transverse link's outer housing around the spindle pin. {yes, I've had a few like that}. See: <a href=http://kanolabs.com/ TARGET=NEW> Kano Laboratories </a> I had two very very rusted nuts/bolts - in a lower front finisher panel {where the turn signals go}, from a parts car.... No one would ever expect to take them apart without twisting the bolts off, or rounding the nuts off... I took Kroil and spray it on one {the worse of the two because only part of the head of the bolt was still there}... and P.B. Blaster was sprayed on the other. I let them set over night - sprayed them both a second time and let them set over night again. I put a socket and wrench on the one sprayed with PB Blaster - and promptly twisted the bolt in two. I put the socket and wrench on the one sprayed with Kroil - broke it lose and unscrewed it. My son was there at the time, and he couldn't believe that anything would work like that... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Enigma: I initially wrote a far more direct, blunt and course response {that's just the kind of guy I am} .... but after thinking about it... I believe I'll just Second your more thoughtful and polite comments.... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Mark: Sorry, I was thinking you were talking about work plans.... Family First... I completely understand - I have one daughter {still a long way from marriage I hope} - ..... I've been married for 35 years and I wouldn't have had it any other way. Of course I've had two wonderful wives in that period.... vbg..... Great to hear about Derek... tell him I send my best wishes... regards, Carl

Hi Mark: I need to talk to you about a philosophical change in life perspective, you have to set a good life example for your son..... "if plans change"..... needs to become; "I'll change plans"....... vbg.... Hope to see you there... Carl B.

What are the dates this year? I missed it last year - and I don't want to miss it this year... Great Event in a truely beautiful setting. I just wish they would scheule it at the same time the College Cheerleaders hold their national convention there... vbg... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Chris: This is simply Unbelievable news. I'm dumbfounded that no one in the Z Community around here knew about this - nor had any opportunity to attend Scott's funeral etc. Four months ago?..... This is just too sad to really think about.... Vicki had to be completely shattered.... Thanks for letting us know. Carl B.

Hi Kats: Great pictures and video's... Chris said; "your new toy".....Did you buy this Z432? regards, Carl B.

Hi Fred: The floor looks great - now that you have the experience, the next time you are down, we can do mine. We used that product on the showroom floors at the Datsun Dealership - and on the warehouse floors at Base Supply on the base. Very durable stuff.... a little slippery when wet.... but very easy to clean up... Carl B.

and Hi Montezuma / Stephen (everyone): #51 is actually both a 70 and a 69. It's a 1969 Production Year.. and/or a 1970 "Model Year". It would be referred to as a 1969 "Production Year" example; to distinguish it from the rest of the 240-Z's produced during Calendar Year 1970. To collectors, the limited number of Datsun 240-Z's that were produced in Oct., Nov. and Dec. of 1969; carry a higher value than the 240-Z's produced in 1970 for a couple main reasons. First, there were a very limited number produced in 1969 - so they are far more rare to see today. Secondly because they were produced at the very beginning of the production run, several detailed aspects of them add interesting tid-bits of trivia to their rarity. Nissan intended them to be one of their 1970 "Model Year" Line-up. So in most cases Nissan's Authorized Dealers sold them and titled them as such. However, because of previous practices from the 50's and 60's - when Foreign Car Manufacturers held their Model Year vehicles concurrent with the Calendar Year - a few Datsuns were still being sold and titled in various States, based on their Production Year..... ie... a 240-Z produced in 1969 could have would have been sold and titled by the Authorized Dealer as a 1969 Model Datsun 240-Z, based on the Manufacturers Statement Of Origin {MSO} . - See the title for HLS30 00020 below for an example. I understand from some of the forum members here - that in Australia cars were always advertised, sold and titled based on the calendar year in which they were first sold, regardless of production year or model designations given by the manufacturers. With the introduction of U.S. Federal Legislation related to Safety Standards and Emission Controls for automobiles in 1967, the automobile manufacturers, that sold automobiles in the U.S. all "started" to align the release and sale of their new models to a more standard set of dates. That was because the way the Federal Laws were written, required Safety and Emissions Standards were implemented, and were to be complied with by specific calendar dates. So we see that in the USA: The Series I 240-Z's started regular production in Oct. of 69 (Sold as 69, 70 and 71 Model Years) The Series II 240-Z's started regular production in Jan. of 71 (Sold as 1971 Model Year) The Series III 240-Z's started regular production in Sept. of 71 (Sold as 1972 Model Year) The Series IV 240-Z's started regular production in Aug. of 72 (Sold as 1973 Model Year) The 260-Z's started regular production in Aug. of 73 (Sold as 1974 Model Year) The 280-Z's started regular production in Dec. of 74...... Regular production was delayed because of a shortage of the necessary F.I. Parts, and delays in getting the 280-Z certified by the U.S. Federal Government for sale in the U.S. FWIW, Carl B.

Charile sold it to Steve - and today a man named Robert.... owns it. Never received the new owners name and info - so the old listing is still on the Register... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Bo: Boy - you have me on that one. I have no idea of the specific type or composition of the material used... When new they would have been described as a synthetic rubber of some type - like that used in tire treads.. it was pretty firm stuff.... If I were going to market them - first I would sell them in compete sets ONLY and include every one used in the car... second I'd do the sets for the 510's and Pick-up's.... (most likely many of the same parts..). But they would have to look identical to the originals... Personally, I'd rather go to China and reproduce the 73-78 GMC Motor Homes - only with a modern drive train... Good luck with the project... I'd be a buyer... Carl B.

Hi Gary: 1. Is there some reason you must use a 25'x25' layout? 2. Is this a secondary garage to work on your car only - or your only garage that must be shared with other vehicles? 3. What size garage door do you have in mind? A standard 8'x16' " or......... 4. What construction type are you planing on using? Wood Frame, Steel, Block??? In general I agree with 240ZX - just use a Roll-up door, instead of the more typical Sectional Garage Door. The Roll-up Garage Doors seal more completely to the garage door opening in the building - so insulated or not they would most likely provide beater heat retention/ cold rejection in the Winter.. A 12' ceiling height is plenty for the use of a lift for a Z - the typical lift only raises the bottom of the tires about 6' off the floor - and the Z is what? around 4 1/2' tall... so even with the hood partly open you shouldn't have any issues..... The only problem with scissor type trusses is they eliminate over-head storage space. If I had it to over - I'd make a garage at least 30' deep - that way you can park two First Generation Z's in there end to end in ony bay - three if you put one on the lift.... But more importantly - you have room at each end of the car to get around the car easily and still have room for things like work benches, tool boxes, compressors etc. at the ends of the car. 25x25= 625 sq. ft and so a 21x30 would also provide about the same total in a more work friendly layout... FWIW, Carl B.

Rolling Stability is the main consideration - I like the type of engine stands that I can store when not in use. This is an example, but there are many others.. Also an oil drip pan, that sits across the front legs - saves a lot of clean up. <a href=http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=47304 TARGET=NEW> 2000 LBS. Capacity<a/> Buy two of them at the same time - and later you can use them for a rotisserie for the body shell. From time to time our local Sam's Club has 2000 or 3000lb. engine stands of the same type for around $59.00 each.. FWIW, Carl B.

The extended tip plugs are designed to keep the tip of the plug {electrodes} farther into the flame ball in the combustion chambers - so that it helps prevent carbon fouling and provides a more uniform burn. With the use of Fuel Injection and electronic ignitions - the extended tip was no longer required because the F.I. system provides a far more accurate fuel/air mixture, far more constantly and the E.I. provides a better spark anyway. Nonetheless - there would be no harm runing either one in a 280Z. The "6" indicates the heat range of the plug - so other than keeping the electrodes in the tip hotter - there is no difference in the plugs ability to absorb and dissipate heat. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Goose52: Thanks - it has been an amazing cover. Wish someone make them today exactally the same way. I don't know how many times it's been washed over the years, and it has faded a little bit - but otherwise it's still like new. As I recall it was about $49.95 back in 71.. We just bought a new washer/dryer - to replace our 20 year old set - that finally gave out. The only criteria for the new washer was that it had to be big enough to wash my car cover. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Guys: One thing is for sure - the 73 Model Year 240-Z's for the US had VIN's starting with HLS30 120001. Bob Bondurant's 240-Z has a VIN of HLS30 1200031 and a build date of 08/72. HLS30 120596 however has a 09/72 build date.. and HLS30 123849 has a build date of 10/72. FWIW, Carl B.

For the 73 Model Year Production of the 73 Model Year 240-Z for the US and Canada started in 08 of 72. - Carb.'s changed (as mentioned) - different E-88 Head Used For Federal Emissions Std.'s in 73. - Dash layout changed, with backlight heater/vent controls, - new hazzard switch design. - Headlight buckets changed from fiberglass to steel. - Flame retardent materials were required for interior use. - Intermitten windshield wipers added as standard equipment. - Two and a half mile per hour bumpers added. - The rods were the same - but larger connecting rod bolts were used. 8mm vs 9mm This actually started at the 2/3's of the way through the 72 Model Year Starting at Engine Serial Number: L24-096181 That would be in US/Canada 240-Z's with a build date starting in 04 of 72. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Chris / Goose52 everyone: I agree - the Ad. lines during the transition from BRE to INTERPART, put out by BRE was "Now We Are INTERPART".. and to everyone's mind the BRE Parts Business was INTERPART and vis versa. BRE stuff was BRE stuff no matter if you bought it from BRE or later INTERPART. As Chris correctly pointed out - MULHOLLAND stuff was not BRE stuff... INTERPART was started so that the BRE Shop could focus on racing and not spend so much time shipping BRE Parts. I'd have to check with Mr. Brock, but I believe that when InterPart was first formed, Mr. Brock held a 30% or 40% interest in Interpart, and his primary interest was to continue the BRE Parts Sales (and associated income).. while off loading the Parts Business work - from the Racing Shop. In the original agreement between Nissan and BRE, the Nissan Authorized Dealers would sell BRE Parts via their Datsun Parts Dept.'s and BRE could market Nissan Competition Parts via BRE. BRE for example sold a slightly re-designed Nissan Rear Spoiler, that was fabricated locally for BRE. BRE's Competition Oil Pump Springs - were another example of Nissan Parts re-branded and sold as BRE parts. As the InterPart business grew - it required more employees, more investment in inventory, and more capital to have additional items produced so they could be added to the line up - like the BRE Headlight Covers, BRE Car Covers etc. So additional investments were made by the other partners and Mr. Brocks' ownership in terms of the percentage of the business was diluted to much less than the original 30% or 40%.... Also BRE shut down around the end of 1973 or in early 1974.... Any business needs growth - and the Mulholland Brand started to fill that need for growth..as well as things like the Shadow Shade Kits etc. BTW - My BRE Z Car Cover, purchased before Dec. of 71 - does have the same commemorative wreath that Goose52 has on his Bra.. I think I still have the same BRE Bra somewhere out in the garage as well. I know I purchased the car cover before the end of Dec. 71 - because I had to park my 240-Z in the hangers at the Air Base and I wanted it covered, as I was TDY to SEA. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Wayne: 137 Oregon was the BRE Shop/Parts 141 Oregon was the first Interpart Building 100 Oregon was the second Interpart Building So the fire must have been 2/72 and 8/72.... FWIW, Carl B.