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I came across that problem last time when one of my cylinders was stuck from sitting in the winter and was leaking fluid. I managed to get only a new cup seal ( few dollars ) and rebuild the unit, or else it would cost me that 200 + USD.. Thank god on these old cars everything is almost repairable, instead of the new cars where you just throw it away and buy a new one....$$$

Time for a little update.... First I got another cockatoo, the old one ( yuki ) got a little agressive and attacked me this one is really friendly his name is Buddy, he's a Galah... Second the Datsun.. it's currently in winter storage since last 2 weeks. I will start it occasionally, didn't have much time to drive it this summer...not much nice days ! I hope to drive it more next summer, and bring it to some classic car events... Lot's of polishing/cleaning work needs to be done on the car in spring ! Third: The Mustang I am still waiting for the engine to come back from the engine shop, had some problems with parts I had to send back to the US. I hope to get the engine and tranny in around Christmas.. or Januari. I allready re-painted the engine bay, and put an entire new steering assembly ( rebuild unit from the US ).

Changes occured throughout the production of the 240Z so you really can't call it series 1,2, or 3 etc... Mine is from a " transition period " it has many series 1 features, but also what guys call here a series 2 Z emblem on the side pillar instead of the 240z badge.

Like Mart says.. never the floors and if it's rusty wit the normal jack ( see picture ) it will FAIL

Very nice work, lots of details... It's Always a pity it's going to fade away anyhow, when used outside on the road, or else you have to put it in a museum or only drive on dry sunny days But you can keep it nice for a long while, old fashioned elbow grease.

Upping this. Parts still here. They don't have to go, but if anyone is interested.

The head is back. So any interest PM me !

There's quite some videos on youtube on doing that, but untill there's a proper way, i'll stick with the expensive non ethanol gasoline..

It's called V Power here if I am correct. Fancy names. It's just regular gasoline ( octane a bit higher ) without ethanol in it. Ethanol reduces mpg and burns less clean than regular gasoline. I use it in the 240Z to, but that's just because the regular 95 contains about 5% ethanol, ( this will be upped to 10% in a few years time ) I just need regular gasoline without ethanol, so I don't **** up the carbs and everything.... The hobby is getting more expensive by the day ...

I love the mountain area of Austria and Bayern ( Southern Germany )... went there last year with the Mustang. Beautiful scenery to drive... I'm planning my next road trip through Switzerland and into Monaco, but it don't think it will be this year.

Beautiful 240 ! Orange really fits Datsun !

And some more S30 racing pictures here:

Was at classic cars and aeroplanes sunday, they had a race demo with some old zeds...

Way more than 15k... can tell you that

Manual says: Use Mobil SAE 10w30 for damper oil, do not use SAE 30 or higher weight oils

Personally I don't see the problem in the ball joints ( after all I am still using the old " worn out " ones ), or the entire linkage, but just with the carbs. Mine where done by Ztherapy, so not sure what they did ? Found this on their website: Reman Carb Body 69-72 ½ 240Z 3 or 4 Screw w/ZT Roller Shafts (pair) . But there's no friction in the linkage ever since, and the gas pedal goes so light....it's better than a new car. ( I have to note it is sensitive on bumpy roads, but I anticipate on that by backing my foot off) So I guess the shafts in both carbs ( Original state ) cause to much friction in the whole linkage.. ?

it should be plug and play...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240-Z-NISSAN-2400-Valve-Cover-RARE-/112408774580?hash=item1a2c15c7b4:g:JzkAAOSwX61ZGl1x&vxp=mtr Here the one from JRPurcell and found this one to: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-Series-1-NISSAN-2400-OHC-Aluminum-Valve-Cover-Rare-/282476603409?hash=item41c4eae811:g:V4AAAOSw8HBZF1bx&vxp=mtr

That 70's haircut though

Hey Mart, That ZX is going to be a beauty ! I'm curious after the end result... Nice work from the body shop . About the hinge seal, that's a good one, need to do some information digging on the internet here.., I wouldn't have a clue either. You have alot of books and manuals, doesn't one of them say anything about a seal there ?

The S30 432(R) and the S20 Prince engine are surely unique in the sense of historical value and collector items.

Interesting, this seems to be a complaint with many s30 owners. And the " sticky " throttle. Once I had my rebuild carbs back, the issue was no longer there, so I think alot of problems are in the butterfly shafts, because they actually wear in " oval " , the pedal action is not smooth anymore

Just use BP6ES, I don't see R plugs necessary it's not a modern car. Heck I even use B6ES ( cheapest ones ) on my 240Z and they do the job just fine. Going hotter is not the solution to existing engine problems.. if the plug is fooling it's either oil, or to much fuel, or in extreme cases the head gasket is leaking and fooling the plug.

Good luck on the restoration ! It's amazing these low VIN cars still keep popping up... I noticed the speedo starts @ 20 mph, didn't the early speedo start at 0 ? Or was it the other way around haha.