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I put copper grease instead of anti seize, worked fine for me.

Put her into a winter coma last week, see you again in April

LOL, this is typical from back in the day... of not having the knowledge how these Hitachi's work, so just slap on a 4 barrel downdraft :P

Uhmmm no...

Okay... It does suck in modern traffic these days.. datsun looks ' quick " but you can't go faster, because of the damn gearing LOL. It's just missing one more gear ( overdrive ) for modern traffic to come along in higher speeds. I've been considering doing the conversion, but I don't want to go 280zx 5 speed, if I do then it needs to be the Original 5 speed option ( gearbox, driveshaft, diff ) that came on the 240Z.. and let these be pretty damn hard to find, it's all worn out if you can find. ( Excuse my bad English it's not my native language ;) )

That's crazy lol, the car would have much more potential with a good 5 speed ( overdrive ). Although the 4 speed is pretty damn wide ratio, it's lacking in giving the car a proper top speed. I mean okay you can pull it to 190/200 km/h in a sprint and max out the rpm, but for continues driving at high speed it just isn't suitable.. you really need an overdrive here. Offcourse I have to consider back in the day 120 mph was alot

Good question ?

Nice pictures Kats... I feel the biggest mistake is giving the US 240Z a 4 speed, it would have much more potential and top speed with a 5 speed wide ratio gearbox... Everytime I drive my 240Z in the modern traffic around 80 mph and after that the engine is allready making to much rpm to be cruising @ a higher speed... so really missing another extra overdrive gear here :(

I can see your point here, but people who are in the classic car business, would disagree with that... real collectors would want matching numbers Would regular people at a car show care about VIN numbers ? I think you'r right in that part.. NO

I would put this in a museum and leave as is... ( engine and gearbox out ) for future generations. I don't see a point in restoring something with a non matching engine to it.. Cool to say you got 181, but what's the point ?

Carbs are not designed to have an electric pump feeding them ( unless the manufacturer wanted it ). Many people don't seem to understand how carbs work instead of fuel injection these days... Yes the fuel lines need to go from tank directly to the mechanical pump... , remove the electric pump. Don't forget the spacer plate between the block and mechanical pump.. Sorry to say this, but your best bet will to rebuild the carbs to OEM spec, THEN adjust them properly.

Exactly. It depends on where you are though. We can't get redline MT90 here in Europe. But I'm using the classic line from Kroon Oils here, and that's about the same stuff I think. It's formulated for the old post war cars. Never had problems, and my 4 speed hasn't been open since new. There's a slight difficulty going in 2nd gear when cold, but when it's warmed up everythings fine. I'm only using everything from the classic oils line, for my mustang to. I won't put modern oil in these old birds...

More low VIN's will keep popping up I'm sure. Some just haven't been discovered yet.. Back in the day people just parked them or left them in a barn somewhere when repairs got to much and never looked back..

Prob more rust, if you have it dipped or soda blasted... you can see what's really left of it :O Yeah to bad the engine is not there..

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-Datsun-Z-Series-240-Z/292640240059?hash=item4422b7b1bb:g:xc8AAOSwI-dbSRKf&vxp=mtr or search Ebay: datsun 240z , the z cars, the black one 11/69 factory stamp

No, only in summer. But I have a US spec 240Z.. I think it has more to to with the state of the parts/ethanol free fuel though

Yes, seeing those pictures, the state those parts are in ( if that is yours or just an example pic ?! ). Make sure everything is in good condition first. Like 87mj says about the fuel lines make sure the fight tight, and the hoses are black and new, ethanol free fuel helps to. I work with carbs all the time for my work ( bike carbs, but the act the same as SU's.. ), the problems ethanol gas ( although it's still only max 10% here ) can give are huge. Everything in the fuel system from tank to carb, needs to be clean, free flowing, and air tight, or else you will have problems. Do you have the spacer ( isolator ) between the fuel pump ? Mine was missing to with the previous owner, I just noticed it when rebuilding the engine.

Even with 100 degrees, it shouldn't happen. I think this has more to do with a ( proper tune/some parts not functioning correctly/quality of the gasoline ), then so called vapor lock. I've driven my z in 40+ C days ( 105 F ), without any issues. I do only use ethanol free fuel... Vapor Lock is air in the system, there's an underlying problem you need to find.

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Yes, if you know what your doing, it's not that hard actually. I did mine to like you can see above.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-Datsun-Z-Series/222995305621?hash=item33eb8e5495:g:usAAAOSwLs9bC3L0&vxp=mtr It's a 70 for sure, seems in a good condition for restoration

doesn't look like the right seal to me

Ebay has used ones for around 270 and rebuild for 500

I have one if you like, rebuild with new bearings, clamps, rubber hoses etc according to fsm, but shipping will be $

Finally saw time monday to clay and wax the Z... Looking good, might need some more claying next month or so, there's still some dirt trapped in the paint, wasn't expecting that for 2 year old paint Also got the 351 back in the Stang..