siteunseen

Sounds familiar.

They aren't having to walk around the lot with khakis and a logo polo shirt, tennis shoes. "Let me go talk to my sales manager, maybe I can get him down some more". Those were the good old days right?

Yeah, the bucking is how I explained my coolant temp sensor problem before I installed a potentiometer. It would buck until about 2,500rpm and then pull good. Make sure these connections are good and clean, tight. You can crimp them down a little too. https://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html

I painted only things that I had off to work on. You're going a lot further than I did. I got lucky and found cars with original paint and little rust underneath. I agree with the "get them running good and drive" philosophy.

The tps might be out of adjustment? Trying to think what the paint shop could have done. Agree with Dave, check the simple stuff. Vacuum gauge and fuel pressure gauge would be good. Auto parts stores loan them out around here. Here's a good write up on the tps. https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tps/index.html

I used satin. My oil pan and other original painted parts were the reason I did so. Right or wrong I don't know. Maybe other members will chime in with more knowledge?

Great purchase! It appears to be an "oiling cam" so you'll need those block offs. here's some specs from our friend @240260280 https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/cam/index.htm

Let me see what that one sales for and then I may go get the one in North Alabama I posted a few days ago. A little work and I could get that junkyard car looking good if the motor and drivetrain are as stated.

If you decide to use a small spray gun instead of rattle cans I highly recommend another $15 for a small moisture separator right before the gun. I have a pretty good one right of my compressor but still get moisture after the 25 ft hose. That's fine for most everything except painting and sandblasting.

I have a slide hammer but honestly don't remember using it. I bought a quart of chasis satin black from Eastwood and used it on everything on my 280 and 240. Great stuff in my opinion. Bought a cheap gravity cup hvlp gun from Harbor Freight, $15 small gun. I can dial the pattern down to spray the size of a dime, low air so no overspray. Still use it too.

I bought Standard fj707s from rockauto.com. Here they are at amazon.com $48 https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Motor-Products-FJ707-Injector/dp/B000VB32IA

It's got California plates on it in this ad. http://topclassiccarsforsale.com/datsun/91944-awesome-240z-240-z-original-vintage-classic-collector-car-superb-trade-.html And #6247 vin.

A free turning motor? Does that mean it spins but doesn't run? My '72 would spin over but it took about $2,000 and a lot of work to get it drivable. Would "misleading" be the right word, I'm a Beverly Hillbilly.

That's it Zed. Beverly Hills Motors had that car for sale. Edit: Beverly Hills car club.

Yeah those pictures look familiar. I'm on my phone and can't do it but try a backwards image search on that last picture. Put the cursor on it then S and right click at the same time.

I was doing a motor rebuild and suspension refresh, all kinds of small stuff popped up so it was a month long at least. You could do it in a day or two once you get all the parts together. The steering rod is kind of a pain if the motor is in the car. I used polyurethane bushings for the steering rack. Here's what I used for reference way back when I did my '77. @240260280 always has some good photos which help me better than reading directions so THANK YOU! Phillip. https://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/steering.htm

Well that's cool! I missed that when he posted it but now it's bookmarked. Thanks.

The best one I remember was @Captain Obvious's but his photos went away because "Photo Bucket sucks", as per Captain Obvious. Here's quite a few, his is in there too. I rebuilt mine without any problems. Bought the accordion boots with those stainless straps from a motorcycle parts department. They were for some kind of 4-wheeler, sorry I don't remember. I bought Moog tie rods with the grease zerk from rockauto.com. The driver's side is left hand threads FYI. https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&ei=KZYqYLycD83G5gKF3ZjgDQ&q=steering+rack+restore+classiczcars.com&oq=steering+rack+restore+classiczcars.com&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EAM6BAghEAo6BQghEKsCUPgjWOJEYJdUaANwAHgAgAG9AogB5A6SAQgxNC40LjAuMZgBAKABAaoBB2d3cy13aXrAAQE&sclient=gws-wiz&ved=0ahUKEwj81JuOnezuAhVNo1kKHYUuBtwQ4dUDCA0&uact=5 Here his is. He says later on in the thread the important photos are there.

42F here. And that's cold to these old bones. What's in Austin will be here tomorrow, damn it. Brown liquor helps me get through these 2 cold months.

Try leaving the cap off and pumping the pedal while running. It kinda sounds like you may need a new slave cylinder. No big deal changing those out. Good luck with your issue, easy fix hopefully.

We've posted together on this before. Texas heat, Alabama heat. I cheated and put a 280Z radiator on my '72 with a full ZX shroud. I have the OE stuff but for driving around here it runs nice and cool.

That zcardepot is a Pacesetter, same as ebay. 10 years ago the thickness was short, not good. Maybe better now? I would wait out msa or go with msds. Msa has theirs built then sent to a coating place nearby called Embee. They could have a batch at Embee almost ready?

Or maybe I pried it off with piece off wood between the front cover and the pulley. I can't remember but that sounds more doable now that I think about it.

If I remember right I took a small screwdriver and tapped that key keeper loose and mine came off fairly easy. Don't hit the pulley with a steel hammer from behind. You could use rubber but be gentle. Those things break on the thinner sides where the belt rides. Good luck.

Post a picture of your pulley and what you're dealing with. You may have some classic PO work around.