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My car came with 1/4" spacers behind the steel wheels when I bought it. I took them off and have been driving without any issues. After putting Konig Rewinds on then driving around in tight circles there was no rubbing so I put the spacers on the rears, looks a little better to me. With the acorn lugs there was plenty of threads left to tighten the wheels down. Is there any potential problems running the spacers on the rears? Thanks for any advice or experiences doing this. Cliff

You are looking on the passengers strut tower?

The two closet on the registry at zhome.com. I don't know if you could do some math and figure it out? Good luck and welcome to the forum. Post some pictures for us Z lookie lous. VIN:HLS30 010219 Production Date:09/70 Color Body /Int :Silver / Black Orig.Eng.Number:L24-9244 Owner:Dale Johns City/State/Cntry:Lexington, SC USA IZCC Member#: Comments:Original Owner e-mail:rdjohns2001@yahoo.com Date Registered:28 Sept 03 VIN:HLS30 010317 Production Date:09/70 Color Body /Int :907 Green/Black Orig.Eng.Number:L24-013547 Owner:Robert Kinch City/State/Cntry:Wendell, NC, USA IZCC Member#: Comments: e-mail:rob.kinch@comcast.net Date Registered:9 Aug.11

Well Huckleberry Hound got huckel bucked! Naw, not too bad. Instead of $160 off I'm just getting $110, but I could care less because they are AWESOME and I never use that word. $561 total for 4 15x7 with Hankook 205/50s. Before, with the scallop hubcaps After with the shiznitz's

What persistence and patience you have, my hat's off to you. I'm hoping you'll get the suggestions and tips you need.

Some good info here, http://datsunzgarage.com/

But he's got that cool colonoscopy camera already. I'd bet his wife insists that it stays in the garage.

Awe man, bummer! What's that needle looking thing beside the keeper in picture #3? I had to use a sharp pointed pick to get the spring keepers to even separate from one another with the springs fully compressed.

I'm going through this now too. .460" is the max lift without different springs and shorter retainers as well as shorter valve seals. My machinist says going to a .490" lift, which I wanted 1st, was more work and money for him. Madkaw also warned me of that big a cam, a better ignition and triple carbs to start with so I changed my mind pretty quick. Get your rockers resurfaced whichever way you go. I sent mine to Delta Cams, the guy on the phone said $3 each but everybody else said they paid $4 a piece. Still way cheaper than new ones. Read some over at hybridz.com.

Idle (consistent but low) When gauge needle is steady at about 8 to 14 it generally indicates incorrect valve timing. Idle (with constant large fluctuations) This action usually indicates a leaky head gasket Cruising (big variations) Wide variations of needle increasing with motor speed indicates weak, or broken valve springs

$671 purchase price, $160 in rebate cards that I will pay on the balance. I have 6 months interest free to pay. I did some good old fashion "I'm a dumb 'ole country boy, help me get some nice wheels for my car", works everytime.

Thank you, I'd like to do that too. My old switch is just hanging under the newer stereo.

What about that JB Weld on the EGR tunnel? Is it all sealed up still?

I just bought this set-up for my 240. After all the rebates and a $20 dollar credit I had from another set, $511 to my house. The money does like the Energizer Rabbit, It just keeps going and going and going...

One of those ported vacuums on the side of the throttle body went to the BPT valve on my '77. I removed that with the EGR and plugged that nipple. Mine also had a 2 hose plastic vacuum valve on top of a warming plate that looked like an "F". I can't remember where those wound up. Check Blues Tech Tips on reading a vacuum gauge. It has all kinds of scenarios.

I used fuel hose from O'Reilly's and two 3/4" PEX 90 degree elbows to make the 180 bend. O'Reilly's has 5/8" and 1/2" low pressure fuel hose by the foot, at least the ones here do for what that's worth. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/GATR/27008/N0887.oap?ck=Search_5%21s%218+fuel+hose_N0887_5142640_1149&keyword=5%21s%218+fuel+hose&pt=N0887&ppt=C0222

Seems like I read those piston numbers were weight related. The 3s weighed so much then the 4s & 5s, etc. A way the factory could balance the motor a little better. Mine have P79 stamped in the middle too. It was a ZX motor also. RossiZ did you come across anything that was about to come loose or break? I've torn down 3 over the last few years and always found something that got the "holy $^!#" comment. That's what happened this weekend taking the cam towers off a head, they were really loose. That's the reason I'm rebuilding a perfectly good running 43 year old motor. I don't want to break down on the way to Memphis for ZCON. Did that transmission have the extra bolts at the bottom going to the F54 block? Sorta like a bracket looking thing.

Packaged up my rockers to be shipped to Delta Cams for a resurfacing then my "JAPAN" cam to Schneider for regrinding. Finally, the ball has started to roll.

As long as it's a cast impeller I think I'd trust it. They're so easy to replace also and with 30 percent off coupon code they're $14. The same pump made by Asin is $65 @amazon.com.

Yeah I've heard of swapping the cam by loosening the motor mounts and raising the front to clear the radiator. I guess if you loosened up all the rockers it would work?

After reading this, http://datsunzgarage.com/p79/, you should rebuild the N47 for emission testing only and run the P79 year round.

According to Advanced Auto the '83 Maxima Diesel pump has the same part number for a '72 240Z. It's a remanufactured Atsugi if you look at the pictures. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/driveworks-water-pump-remanufactured-57-1016/20420100-P?vehicleIdFromReq=-1&isAllVehicle=false&vehicleIdSearch=18855&searchTerm=57-1016&showTitle=#

Okay, you got me to thinking and comparing. Isky's stage 3 with springs, retainers and lash pads is $456. They charge $200 for regrinding my cam. Schneider's stage 3 with all the same components is $380. They charge $125 for regrinding. $76 difference. I'm thinking the Schneider will be more "user friendly" for my #918. I have #110 patiently waiting, tucked away in a corner.

If you get the turbo motor make sure and get the ecu too. They're different I've read. You'd want to disassemble and clean it up anyway so storing the parts would be easy. Head under a bed. Block standing on it's ends take up the same room as a vacuum cleaner. If there's no transmission you could find room I'm sure. Is it a p90a? I think they have hydraulic lifters. http://datsunzgarage.com/p90/

Are you gonna put the Isky cam on your E88?