siteunseen

Google that part number for prices.

Could be rich on the carbs. Burns off the plugs and runs better. Take the plugs out and see if they're dark. Might need to lean the mixture knob a hair. Weather change could cause this.

Those look like MSA's. Are they? I sure hope not as I have a box full.

My '77 280 does too.

I carry him a grilled cheese with a couple of chicken fingers on it all the time, our restaurant is right next door and I'm a suck arse.

Fuel pressure for sure. There's some video on another thread about Hitachis right now, you should watch it until you get the Ztherapy DVD. Or you could try running it with a fuel can, bypassing a possibly crudded up fuel tank. Put a 2 gallon gas can in front of the radiator then put the fuel lines in it. The other end of the one going into the pump and the small return line coming off the rail. Ah hell I just realized it runs it just has to have starting fluid to get there. My bad, just woke up.

That's some nice shop clothes there, jacket and cuff links.

I think you have the clockwise and counter clockwise backwards. "Righty tighty" all the way up then "lefty loosey" 2.5 turns down. Simplier, turn them towards the cylinder head until they stop, then turn them towards the fender 2.5 turns. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/39221-quick-and-dirty-su-tuning/

I painted mine black and tried to remove that red sticker from the original and glue it on but it tore before I got it all. Mine came from rockauto.com though but I'm really starting to like O'Reilly's.

I was about to pull my hair out trying to find the 9mm wide wipers 18" long. On my way to Walmart I stopped at O'Reilly's. After looking at EVERY 18" they had a young man ask if I needed any help. I explained how I'd have to buy the "dumbed down" wiper assembly and remove the rubber to keep my original look. He went behind the counter and came back with the exact size refills only. Trico 44-180, $6.99 for both! Don't understand why they are hidden but I don't care now that I know. O'Reilly's also has the clear plastic fuel filter for $3.49. They are 240Z friendly. Monday I was about to order the K&N air filter for my 240, $55 at amazon.com. On a whim I called my Nissan parts buddy. This morning he called and said I had an OE filter waiting on me, $15.

Thank you for that. I hate the way the generic UFO looking one I had to get looks. Where did you find that new pump? Do you have a Nissan number? Thanks, Cliff

Here's the part number for those small rivets, 79909-E4100. About $10 at your Nissan dealer for a pack of 10. There's 2 behind the tag and 4 or 6 up top.

Hey that's a good idea! Our SUs have vents on top of the float chambers you could pour gas in somehow I suppose. Could he shoot starter fluid in the mouths of the carbs? Maybe raise the piston a little and open the butterflies with the linkage? You should have a fire extinguisher or a hose pipe ready just in case things get away from you. Maybe buy a low pressure, low price electric fuel pump? I think Purolator has a square one for about $20. I've used them on boat motors.

I use acetone and ATF 50/50 mix in a spray bottle, it works great for me and is inexpensive so you can really soak whatever you're working on. If you'll spray it down real well the night before it almost always works. A quart of each has lasted me 3 years and still counting. Sometimes a good wrap with a hammer will loosen things up so the penetration can work sooner. I've even tightened stuck nuts a little then backed off of them, I think that's nutty sounding but I swear it helps. Oh yeah, don't forget about using a wire brush on the exposed threads too. Also an impact wrench or a drill dialed down will move stuff a little and that's all the acetone & ATF mixture needs to get in there and work. Put a box of band aids close by. I keep 4 in my wallet. I use acetone after the baking soda and water rinse. It dissipates moisture and gives you an extra few minutes before flash rust appears inside the tank before you pour the liner in. Read over this if you're thinking of doing it. It'll help understand the steps you have to do. They are very simple you just need to be prepared, it's kinda time sensitive. That acid will etch it down to bare steel which will lightly rust QUICK. http://www.damonq.com/techsheets/red-kote.pdf

Wick Humble says they're stainless, page 173. If you look at the bottom middle you should see the gap, if you have them. I just did mine with some 0000 steel wool.

Are they similar to the 240 brackets?

Same as mine. But now after a few thousand miles the idle pressure is lower than midway, about a fourth of the gauge, but comes right back up with a little pedal push.

Nice car.

I found my thread, disregard all the shoe talk, we had some laughs on that. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/49439-developing-story/ here's where I first got the confidence to try it myself, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm If you need any help just let me know, I've learned some helpful tips like using a leaf blower to dry it out and using the old sending unit to cover that hole while you are sloshing everything around. Baking soda from the Dollar Store and 4 or 5 five gallon buckets etc. Cliff

I've done 2 that make that one look like New Old Stock. It looks very useable to me but I can't see any pin holes that may need welding up? A gallon of muriatic acid and some tank liner would make the inside new again. You'll need to replace all the the evap tank hoses while you're at it. I did a 240 tank a couple of months ago and cost less than $100 and was able to do it in one nice Saturday. Then I let the tank liner cure for a week while I was redoing the hoses and put it all back together the following Saturday. Here's some pictures and the new fuel sending unit from my local Nissan dealer that was only $42 bucks plus a new O ring so about $45 added to the $100 for hoses and clamps and the quart of Red Kote tank liner.

When I rebuilt my 2.8 it had good oil pressure and only got better. It stays 3/4s of the gauge when driving and only drops down at idle. Maybe you could put a vacuum gauge on the brake bung? Part stores loan them out.

That fargin bastage!

I got this this morning, http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-5568-Pro-Timing-Light-Tool/dp/B000EVU8J8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419644458&sr=8-1&keywords=innova+5568

After I get over this last spending spree I am going to start a new one with you, @240zrubberparts. You have some good stuff.

Or even easier but not a good mouthwash, take the bigger hose off from the fuel filter and give it a good sucking to see if you get fuel up to there. If it comes to there then it's pretty much the fuel pump. It has an arm that works up and down off the front of the cam's nose, like an old push and pull water pump from old western movies. You can remove the valve cover and see it it's broken. It's at the front and works off an off center cup looking thing.