siteunseen

"Is it worth a re-torque to help solve this issue for a short time?" That's about your only short time option. Hopefully those APR studs are newer and won't break. You had a 2.8 head on prior right? Smaller block was notched for the 2.8 valves? It is cold as hell down here, 32 degrees when I woke up and I think that's the high for the day. It's supposed to be around 10 degrees tomorrow morning. I'm being a d***, my northern buddies.

I'll be there. http://zccazconvention.com/conventions/2015/

Part number from my Nissan dealer I bought on December 23rd, 26552-E4100 is the right side I think, even numbers are RH if I remember right. Left side is 26557-E4100. I got a good deal, $69 tax and all, but they're next door to my job and I know the parts guys pretty darn well. They like when you know the part number on the older cars they use microfiche for.

I did a quick "non-alcoholic" test. Same results, 34 degrees at 900 rpm 50 at 2500 rpm. Golf tee in the vacuum line and tape over the vacuum advance dashpot nipple. Shifted from 2nd to 3rd at 6500 rpm. Runs like deer, quick! I'll do more testing when it runs bad but I'm going to drive the tires off like it is. And the light was on 6 cylinders, not 2 or 4 or 8 or 12. I think the mechanical timing is off from chain stretch or the pulley has slipped. Also checked breaker plates. It's a reman so could've been that but no. It pulls good. Thats all I care about right now. Rebuilding soon and it'll be right then. Enjoying for now. Thanks for the help, Cliff

That's a "face sweater"

https://www.fastenal.com/web/products/_/Navigation;jsessionid=QyKGJsTHBtkvBZJMSQ7MzNYBNTTsph1zTPp1V6sQ6GKFTCmFTMLl!1674018065!185499280?r=%20~|categoryl1:%22600000%20Fasteners%22|~%20~|categoryl2:%22600051%20Screws%22|~%20~|categoryl3:%22600064%20SEMS%20Screws%22|~

It took a second, that's funny!

Those are some nice seats! Are they Z seats that have been recovered or are they out of another car? Ashtray looks great too. They make a good can holder.

I've got the help of some good teachers. I just woke up and will reread when I'm home from work. Thanks again, Cliff.

I got some good info from #36.

Ok. I never have been able to wrap my head around that whole mechanical/electrical timing thing. I can't make sense of it for some reason? That sounds like a much better plan/idea. Thank you ZedHead.

Yeah I've been thinking the same. I'm going to pull the valve cover off soon and see how far of the cam sprocket line up notches are off. Probably needs to be put ahead a hole or two. But it sure is nice walking into my garage now.

It seems like there's a tech thread on that already. Try and google and see what comes up.

I don't know what this means but I went for a few test drives this morning and after finding the sweet spot on the dizzy came home and hooked the light. Up button up up up until the pointer matched the zero notch on the pulley. 34 was where it matched up at 700 rpms with the vacuum plugged off and taped over.

I have spent time and money to get mine looking good enough to drive out and about. So I was so proud going to get some groceries in my new/old car. Put all the stuff in the hatch then went to unlock the driver's door. Stiff as hell and I didn't want to break the key in the door so I started to climb through the hatch to unlock the driver's door when the security guard came up and ask what I was doing! He thought I was breaking into the car. Showed him how my key operated the hatch lock and offered to show my drivers license when he started to smile and said he knew it was my car he was just busting my balls. So that's what I'll try and fix tomorrow. Always something to "fix" with these cars.

Ahhhhh...last night...

You may need a new slave cylinder? Or bleed out the air?

If you remove the ashtray you should be able to hold the assembly with your hand and move the choke lever. That's how I've been doing mine since I broke the plastic mounts under the console. I've got one of these, just haven't had the time to install it. http://datsunpartsllc.com/cart/index.php?p=product&id=225&parent=5 If your chokes aren't moving your nozzles on the bottom of the carbs could be stuck, happened to a set I have.

Gigadee

It amazes me that a pulley on front of a crank on a motor turning 2,500 RPMs is completely frozen to my eyes. It's an eerie feeling for sure. Thanks everybody for helping me realize how little I know.

So 10 btdc would be 27 degrees at 2500rpm? Set the dial to 27 and it should hit on the third mark on the pulley. First mark is 0 2nd is 5 and third is 10 degrees? I'll try that. I got the carbs perfect and then put the filter housing back on and dropped 200 rpms damn it! I'm gonna through in the towel for today and watch some football. Happy New Year everybody. cliff

By the time I paid shipping to New York all I got back from rockauto.com was $14 on a $29 core charge.

I've got a new timing light with the advance feature. From what I've read I'm thinking that if I dial in the advance such as 10 degrees, the pulley mark should line up on 0. Is that right? With the advance feature you don't use the 5 degree increments, just the 0 mark. Right??? Thanks for any replies, Cliff

Are your valves adjusted properly? It helps a lot.

I've always heard to do what you want the coming up year to be like on New Years Eve. So I've been piddling with my Zs all day. Got my timing light this morning and have been seeing how the OE tachs are reading low. 1,000 RPMs at the coil reads 800 RPMs on the gauge. This thing is awesome, I think, I need to read the booklet.