siteunseen

Oh yeah they slide, they're universal so they don't fit very tight. Putting some kind of friction tape is a great idea, might do that myself. I always tuck the cover in before I get in the car. I put mine over white seats in a 240 I bought with white interior. I tend to get dirty when I work on cars and don't like changing clothes for a quick test drive. One day I'll be like my Dad and wear coveralls, but no time soon. Get you some Hello Kitty's until you can get them recovered. A guy on here, Hardway, recovered his with a kit off ebay. He did a good write up on the process. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/44331-diy-how-to-recover-your-z-seats-lots-of-pictures/

Here's the intake gasket I bought a month or so ago, if you haven't sourced one yet. Nissan #14035-E4610

I called my Nissan parts guy and asked about your numbers, your right "none out there". He suggested Felpro 21157.

I bought some neoprene seat covers from a chain auto parts store or walmart one. They have the tube looking thing that goes between the seat and the back to keep them in place better. Also came with small bungee cords to keep the bottom tight.

So using a 280 HG on a worked E31 head on top of a 2.4 block, one could avoid these issues (other than the block notching)?

What did you do about the 6 that were bad? Did you send 6 more for proper coordination or buy new? I may have that same situation.

My orange one with the 280 radiator and shroud reads 176. I'll check the 280 tomorrow and let you know.

I've been thinking grinding off the stock cam would require thicker lash pads? Sounds bass ackwards now. The guy doing my geometry kept saying John Williams, R.I.P, got the last .150s they could find. Schneider guy says he'll send the ones I need with my cam component kit. The same cam kit MSA sales comes with .175"s.

Delta Cams received my original Nissan rocker arms last friday at 4 p.m. They called at 8:30 a.m PT and asked my card number for payment and shipping. 2 days and $3 each. That's a pretty good turnaround time and a helluva cheap price. He said they barely needed work, that they were in good shape to begin with. But Schneider requires new surfaces for their warranty on my cam regrind and professional installation. Not on Main Street Garage will set it all up for me as soon as I take my perfectly running motor apart and take them the head and intake manifold. I emailed them and asked for one more weekend of enjoyment, 60s here on Saturday. I'll get started on it Sunday.

I thought about it but didn't. Reading Blue's tips had me thinking that they would work with OE size rotors but I was just wanting to stop reasonably quick. here's his write up, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/toyotabrakeupgrade/index.html here's what i bought from chain stores for around $200. Slotted and drilled rotors reman calipers and a can of red paint. Also bought the stainless hoses from the calipers to the hard lines.

My '77 2.8 block runs way cooler than both of my 2.4 blocks but there's some differences other than water passages. Temp sensor in the thermostat housings are different as well as the temp gauges in the 240s. The 280s have bigger radiators, plus fan shrouds. Everything I've read about other 240s is the excessive needle reading towards the hot side. Could be older gauges or newer blocks? Good question.

Here's one for a '77, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html

I have the ceramic from msa and it looks as good today as it did 4 years ago. No discoloration anywhere.

Time stopped for this one. I hope they get 30K.

240 end pieces on the rear, never seen that before, pretty cool. Nice car. Welcome to the forum.

I found "my" best deal at amazon.com, newly reconditioned distributor with the E12-80 ignition for a '79 ZX $100. Then a Crane PS20 1.5 OHM coil for $40. That has been one of my best upgrades yet, it was like going from charcoal lighter fluid to gasoline on a campfire, they really made a difference. You'll need a ZX cap and rotor too.

I dug out a used L24 head gasket, it's oval too. I don't understand why?

Current thread, http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50845-just-did-the-kia-hatch-seal/

According to my Datsun books the 2.4 and the 2.6 are both 83mm bore size. The 2.8 was the bigger so I'd say NO. 12/'74 would be 86mm. Try rockauto.com. EDIT: Well after reading a little about that, I'm not positive. I've read the headgasket should match the block not the head, so it seems it doesn't matter if the hole diameter is a little bigger against the head. Sorry if I've caused any confusion but I would try and find one that matches the block. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/headgasket/index.html

I measured mine with the first of the flat part of my dial calipers clamped down the "channel". .160" for stock ones. A little further back than your picture #8. 1.45mm is .06" on top of .160" stock so will you get .175s? They don't make .172s. There's plenty of .175"s http://schneidercams.com/7191738StandardWearCap-1.aspx

I did the ZX swap into my 240 and used the original shaft, no problems. Here's some pictures to get you familiar with what you're about to do, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html It'll be a lot easier on a stand than in the car, timing the oil pump and distributor shaft.

I have a N42 head with a Helicoil in one of the stripped out spark plug holes. Didn't even notice until I'd rebuilt the motor and my Dad pointed it out. I bet you can get it out with a socket when it's warmed up. Good luck.

I work at a restaurant that I don't own. Aee, that sounds bad. Rebello is top shelf, I haven't got to that level yet, I'm still drinking the stuff under the bar. They'd talk me into sending the whole head. Maybe someday I'll own the restaurant. That's what I did, thanks to your thread. The lightest weighed 74.5 grams, heaviest was 78.25. Now they all weigh 74.5. Took the block look off the lash pad end, looks more like a ramp now.

I'm sure your puppy training is going better than your green eyed lady.

Do they create some kind of "weakness", can't think of a better word, between the wheel and the brake rotor or is it less thread strength holding the wheel on for your personal taste? Thank you for your input, I can live without them for sure. Also they are different ones for front and rear, I believe, 2 were flat around the center hole and the other 2 were beveled. I left the beveled ones in a box.