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I just remembered where I've seen the same black sheen as the steering rack. The metal ring around the hole in the tunnel for the shifter, under the boot. I knew I'd seen it somewhere when I was tearing my car apart. Maybe they painted things in groups? But I like the gloss you have in the very first picture of post #1 too, less work is always better. Stolen from google images;

The heat shield the fuel rail and the ring around where my shifter comes through the tunnel into the car are the ones I'm doing. So far! EDIT: Ignore what I said! I'm claiming heat exhaustion.

I think you're right about the galvanized metal. I've got mine off an original 240 and will post up a picture in about an hour or two.

What in the world is that? You need an EGR block off plate. I bought an EGR gasket and carried it to a welding friend of mine. He cut one out of aluminium in the shape of the gasket.

How hard is it to replace valve seals with a compressor like this? Isn't this the one to use without removing the cam? Thanks, Cliff

Spider webs can cause things to stick. I paid an HVAC guy to come to my house and clean the contact switch on my A/C unit. $60 bucks for 10 minutes.

I'll guess it's the check valve or lack of one in an aftermarket pump. Like EuroDat says, aftermarket fuel pressure regulators are horrible about leak down, the universal ones.

The TPS CONTACTS also. Could be stuck like points.

I thought I had a picture of it before I stripped the paint off. It's not greasy I promise, I hate handling greasy stuff, so you decide how glossy it was. This is off my orange 240.

This was the tube on the steering rack and it was gloss. I'll look at my other black parts I have in a box for sand blasting, I'm thinking the trans mount is gloss too. Maybe the chassis parts are satin and the other is gloss?

I thought of something that happened to my '76 back in the late '80s. The sweeper arm inside the AFM was stuck. It would crank and run but as soon as I gave it gas it would start to die. I took the black cover off and pushed the weight to free it up. Cleaned everything and it ran great from then on.

I just stripped my steering rack and it was gloss, like the drive shaft. I'm going back with Eastwood's Chassis Satin Black though.

More "kinda" good news. I'll be running an E88 until I get the E31 with the cam kits centers to hit the middle. I've decided to do it myself so get ready Rossi, Madkaw and who ever else will help. I've got an early '72 E88 stamped perfect. The one off a '73 is not so perfectly stamped but is much nicer and has a smaller combustion chamber, smaller means SHALLOWER. It's been shaved I believe, it has those temp buttons from Birmingham Cylinder Head stuck on there. So I'll run it until I get the E31 put together. EDIT!!! I have no idea if the one with sloppy lettering is a '73 E88, that's what motor it came on though. But since it's been through a cylinder head shop who knows? later E88 is the cleaner one with a shallower chamber, Difference in lettering,

if you HAVE to buy a fuel pump Advance had an Airtex for $110. if you buy it online, I really hope you don't need one!, you can put in coupon code TRT30 and get 30% off, $78 bucks. pay online, go to the local store and pick it up or they'll deliver to your house.

Your gonna have to post some pictures for any honest value.

Well Pontiac Blue it'll be, I'm not painting it again; people will think I'm nuts. Old Ford Blue, 1st color, too blue for me. Pontiac Blue, much better, in my opinion and Jarvo's. Thanks again Jarvo! Also stripped and primed my steering rack.

Here we go. I've got 2 high pressure fuel gauges. One for putting in-line, the other for attaching a hose to and zip-tying it to my wiper arm to watch as I drove. My "jumper wires" and a vacuum gauge set up. And (pretty sure) properly functioning FPR. It worked when I removed it.

Here's a good valve adjustment guide, https://web.archive.org/web/20080720024048/http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=12&uid=786489&gid=1803105 My attempt to explain it, post #6 http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/49655-problems-with-a-few-different-areas-of-the-car-running-poor-no-gauges/ I like to write the gaps down and mark the valves off as I go, some turn up at the same time so you have to jump around. There's also a picture of my EGR tunnel that rotted out causing a major vacuum leak. It was a loose connection on the tube coming off the exhaust to the bottom of the EGR. Datsun issued a recall on this but the previous owner of mine must not have gotten it. You should take a hand held mirror and hold it under the intake manifold for a look at the underside where the EGR couples into the manifold.

Let me do some digging today, I've got a '77 FPR and a couple of fuel gauges I could mail to Steve. Also have a length of speaker wire with alligator clips on one end and battery clips on the other for straight wiring the pump. When I put my fuel rail on I went with a '78 FPR, it only has 1 inlet and the return out. The '77 has 2 inlets and the return. Also have a cheapo adjustable FPR, but like Zed Head says it leaks down in a few seconds. My lean running issue was figured out by a Datsun Mechanic from the olden days by clamping off the RETURN line to build pressure, he said it ran good around 50 psi. Put the potentiometer on and it runs like a scalded dog. That's something I've never seen, I love animals. But I guess if Jelly got scalded somehow she'd run away pretty darn fast. Maybe that's how people got rid of hungry dogs back in time? I'll be back around lunch and will post up the pictures of what I have. Jai, find some big pieces of cardboard for laying on. It's a lot better than gravel. I get mine from a restaurant I work at, huge boxes for 32oz cups. A quick shop would have some too.

I'm heavily modified with cobwebs at the moment. Sorry Mike that's the pits, dadgum spider web!

My early '72 4 speed shift rod looks just like the one on my early '77 5 speed. FWIW. Precise measurements were eyeballed. I've got a '80 zx rod a '77 & '72. I can measure them and take pictures if you can't decide. Cliff

They have to be opened up and new internals put in. Rings, timing chain kit, new valve seals and gaskets. Short list.

EDIT: I see now you're talking about the shifter only, my mistake. You could still look through that link and see the straight shifter years and the curved ones too. Good luck. There's tons of info on different trannies for our cars. The different locations of the speedo cable and the reverse lights switch is the easiest way I've seen. The Z cars had theirs then the later ZX had a good one, 240SX has one that will fit and the Maxima 5sp would work I guess, don't know for sure on that. Here's what I've been reading lately, it has information on the different types and a lot of pictures. http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/transmission.htm

These are great!

What's the tach do when it acts up? Does it hang or stay with the motor? Learned that from Zedhead.