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Rossiz says the same. I'll get one. Have fun with the tranny install. Your helpers will always remember working on your Z. Pain pills say not to operate heavy equipment. I imagine a locomotive fallls under that warning.

I'm working with the E31 and an early E88 right now. The only difference I can see is the hump around the spark plug hole on the E88. Later E88 I have has a deeper combustion chamber, about a 1/4" drop around the fire ring where the E31 & early E88 are maybe 1/8". Barely enough to catch a fingernail, if I had fingernails.

Finally got to burn some gas! It didn't hit 85 degrees until 10:30 a.m. Drive a Datsun Day.

Which spring compressor do you use madkaw? I think the one that hooks on the cam would be best for centering each lobe on the rocker pads. Seems like it would be a lot quicker but I've never done it so I'm looking for ideas/tips from you and the others that have done this before. Like this one, Thanks, Oh yeah, I got my heads sealed with Eastwoods clear satin for bare metal. I used a 1/2" China bristle brush rather than spraying it on. After reading a good many threads, if you put on too much it will yellow and flake from the heat. The best thing is to put some on and work it in with a brush, until it quits soaking in. You can barely tell it's on there but I dripped some water on them and it beaded up like wax. I'm happy so far.

I tried the 10mm brake bleeder wrench, rounded the valve off quick too. You need two pairs of good, clean jaws Vise-Grips. It's the only way, unfortunately. Are you putting the stainless hoses on? I had to use needle nose Vise-Grips to hold the square piece. Don't know what it's called but they're on all four. Maybe soaking them down with some kind of penetrating spray would help? I use 50% acetone mixed with 50% automatic transmission fluid in a spray bottle. It's so much more for a lot cheaper price.

Good day for you!

Usually the ethanol free is about $.50 to $1.00 higher, depends on how far you drive to get it. The country quick shops (way out there) are cheaper and have the tanks for it. They have all the fuels plus off road diesel and ethanol free regular. We have Jet-Pep for the cheapest, there based out of Holly Pond which is about 30 minutes from here. Never heard of a Fuel City that I remember. Is it like Love's outside 285 in Atlanta, truck stop/restaurant/gas station? You can buy a Big Gulp or a mud flap.

That cam hook spring compressor would make centering the cam lobes onto the rocker pad a helluva lot easier, right? And you do them one at a time until you get it right, then go back and install the right lash pads and button it up? I'm gonna start with the .190s they sent with the cam then use .175s and some cut up pieces of a feeler gauge to stack under the lash caps for the right height to get them to hit the center, thanks for that tip Rossiz. I bead blasted them today with good results, to me.

Hudgt91, I'll stop posting in your thread. Sorry for that. I'll try and do better but I'm terrible about jacking up somebody else's when I read something that is relevant to me.

Thank you! Sounds easy enough. Quite a bit of carbon on the valves. After a good cleaning they have to seal better.

Okay, that was driving me nuts. Mine does have something like that, it's called a "Damper Plate" made of stacked iron. If you click on the picture in the first post you'll see how it goes. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/35878-odd-part-near-rear-diff/

They've been talking about it for months, finally it's happening.

I glued a magnet to the Bosco's free beer token, now it's in my refrigerator magnet collection.

I ended up using the big "C" compressor from Advance's loaner tool program. I didn't want to remove the cam at first but it needs cleaning so I changed my mind. That Sealey tool would be great for changing valve seals with the head on. Luckily mine is on my workbench.

I can't find anything that looks like that on google images, I looked because I have a '77 and it doesn't look familiar to me. I haven't taken my differential out though, just replaced the mount. Good luck.

I need advice, reassurance on my valves. I took all the rockers off so they were sealing with the springs tension. I blew into the exhaust holes on the manifold side. Tight! No leaking. The intakes were tight but I could tell air was getting past them, just the intake valves. Is that okay? My thinking thinks it is, just no leaking through the exhaust on the combustion stroke. Right? Thanks for any thoughts. Cliff

Would you want the crud getting sucked into the head? It has to go somewhere. Like in that Jack Black movie with Vapoorizer, "where does the s h i t go"?

Lacquer thinner and some old toothbrushes would work but if you aren't removing it that would only get what you can see. I used a five gallon bucket with about two gallons of thinner and submerged mine for a few days, as well as the pistons. Works like carb cleaner, cost me $10 a gallon. Oven cleaner works good too but you'd need it off the car. I would take the throttle body off and clean as far in as you can. Especially around the butterfly.

I had to throw something in even though I have know idea what y'all are talking about. I do know closing the loop makes thing work!

I've always been told to NOT lock the parking brake when the rears are hot, holds all the heat in when the shoes are pressed against the drums. Also stretches the cable like mentioned above. I don't use mine unless I'm on a hill.

I replaced my stuff from rockauto.com and Advance Auto. You'll have to send your old stuff back for core charges though. The rear wheel cylinders are a pain. They have changed the angle the hardline screws into. I ended up bending the hardline so it would line up. My trick was swapping the lines from right side to left, it didn't require as much bending that way. You can buy a pretty decent set of stainless hoses that go from the calipers to the cylinders off ebay.com. You can get everything off ebay, I just realized. If you're working with a budget I'd say get all you can from Advance online. Put in "TRT30" for the coupon code for 30% off. Then you pick it up at the store. I'll add this, with new brakes and a new set of tires mine went from a ill driving clunker to a smooth as silk Cadillac. Of course then I HAD to pull the motor, sarcastic emoji. I haven't driven it since February.

I can't find that anywhere but the UK. A months shipping time. Trying some of the bigger vise-grip styles from the loaner program at local chain stores. They aren't working very well. Where did you get your's Geoff?

You may have unmetered air getting into the manifold causing the white plugs (vacuum leak), around the EGR possibly. When you get the fuel pressure tester, if you have the money get a vacuum gauge. Those are two items the chain stores have on their loaner tool program. Pay for it, use it and get your money back.

...we're gonna rock down to electric avenue...

I would rather read an explanation standing on my head than get that wise arse "use the search function". You and Zed Head are the ones who take the time to explain, it's that "teach a man to fish" thing.