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You've done this!

I think I just bought your's! Kidding, I just bought one off ebay for $36. It's coming from Tennessee, grease and all. 14 day refund if I don't like the condition, it looks to be well used. The cheapest new one was $85.

I think he'd melt.

2.5" exhaust. It may not run better but you'll think it does.

Do you have that E31 on top of a 2.8 with flat pistons? I sure hope my E31 doesn't have to have 104 with the 2.4 I'm building. I can buy 93 at my local station but for higher than that it'd be aviation gas from the airport. That would suck too.

Both of mine came with the scallops like the 2nd picture in the link above. 2/'72 & 7/'72, FWIW.

Nice car. Zcardepot on ebay can help you out with a lot of the small stuff like mirrors and the engine bay light. futofab.com has new chrome bumpers. Wheels are plentiful over here but the shipping would be expensive. Check our classifieds. You might find some things closer to you. Enjoy the Z!

Thanks guys. The one Chickenman posted got me to thinking, and it hurts. The one I was going to get, with the barrel end that goes over the spring retainer would only work if the rocker arm was off. So that won't work for changing lash pads. Thank you for that.

EDIT: I think I'm going to buy the big C style. I just tried a pry bar I have on another head and it worked pretty good. I might make a wooden pry bar for under the cam, a hammer handle works pretty darn good already. I'm wanting to get my cam lobes centered with my rocker's pad. I'm going to try this myself. I know that will be looked down on but I have more time than money. The head is off the car and I can't decide which spring compressor I need. If I get the one that hooks to the cam whats to stop the valves from pushing down? I have a 1" x 1" or there about block of wood for breaking the collets loose. But when I get ready to set each rocker up I'm wondering which would be a better compressor. Please give me some advice on the tool, I need to get one on the way. Here's my two choices so far, without your help. The head is on my workbench, keep in mind please. Any other recommendations would be great. #1 #2

Rossiz says the same. I'll get one. Have fun with the tranny install. Your helpers will always remember working on your Z. Pain pills say not to operate heavy equipment. I imagine a locomotive fallls under that warning.

I'm working with the E31 and an early E88 right now. The only difference I can see is the hump around the spark plug hole on the E88. Later E88 I have has a deeper combustion chamber, about a 1/4" drop around the fire ring where the E31 & early E88 are maybe 1/8". Barely enough to catch a fingernail, if I had fingernails.

Finally got to burn some gas! It didn't hit 85 degrees until 10:30 a.m. Drive a Datsun Day.

Which spring compressor do you use madkaw? I think the one that hooks on the cam would be best for centering each lobe on the rocker pads. Seems like it would be a lot quicker but I've never done it so I'm looking for ideas/tips from you and the others that have done this before. Like this one, Thanks, Oh yeah, I got my heads sealed with Eastwoods clear satin for bare metal. I used a 1/2" China bristle brush rather than spraying it on. After reading a good many threads, if you put on too much it will yellow and flake from the heat. The best thing is to put some on and work it in with a brush, until it quits soaking in. You can barely tell it's on there but I dripped some water on them and it beaded up like wax. I'm happy so far.

I tried the 10mm brake bleeder wrench, rounded the valve off quick too. You need two pairs of good, clean jaws Vise-Grips. It's the only way, unfortunately. Are you putting the stainless hoses on? I had to use needle nose Vise-Grips to hold the square piece. Don't know what it's called but they're on all four. Maybe soaking them down with some kind of penetrating spray would help? I use 50% acetone mixed with 50% automatic transmission fluid in a spray bottle. It's so much more for a lot cheaper price.

Good day for you!

Usually the ethanol free is about $.50 to $1.00 higher, depends on how far you drive to get it. The country quick shops (way out there) are cheaper and have the tanks for it. They have all the fuels plus off road diesel and ethanol free regular. We have Jet-Pep for the cheapest, there based out of Holly Pond which is about 30 minutes from here. Never heard of a Fuel City that I remember. Is it like Love's outside 285 in Atlanta, truck stop/restaurant/gas station? You can buy a Big Gulp or a mud flap.

That cam hook spring compressor would make centering the cam lobes onto the rocker pad a helluva lot easier, right? And you do them one at a time until you get it right, then go back and install the right lash pads and button it up? I'm gonna start with the .190s they sent with the cam then use .175s and some cut up pieces of a feeler gauge to stack under the lash caps for the right height to get them to hit the center, thanks for that tip Rossiz. I bead blasted them today with good results, to me.

Hudgt91, I'll stop posting in your thread. Sorry for that. I'll try and do better but I'm terrible about jacking up somebody else's when I read something that is relevant to me.

Thank you! Sounds easy enough. Quite a bit of carbon on the valves. After a good cleaning they have to seal better.

Okay, that was driving me nuts. Mine does have something like that, it's called a "Damper Plate" made of stacked iron. If you click on the picture in the first post you'll see how it goes. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/35878-odd-part-near-rear-diff/

They've been talking about it for months, finally it's happening.

I glued a magnet to the Bosco's free beer token, now it's in my refrigerator magnet collection.

I ended up using the big "C" compressor from Advance's loaner tool program. I didn't want to remove the cam at first but it needs cleaning so I changed my mind. That Sealey tool would be great for changing valve seals with the head on. Luckily mine is on my workbench.

I can't find anything that looks like that on google images, I looked because I have a '77 and it doesn't look familiar to me. I haven't taken my differential out though, just replaced the mount. Good luck.

I need advice, reassurance on my valves. I took all the rockers off so they were sealing with the springs tension. I blew into the exhaust holes on the manifold side. Tight! No leaking. The intakes were tight but I could tell air was getting past them, just the intake valves. Is that okay? My thinking thinks it is, just no leaking through the exhaust on the combustion stroke. Right? Thanks for any thoughts. Cliff