siteunseen
Community Member
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Everything posted by siteunseen
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Here's mine from an automatic '73. It has the bigger cap bolts but no reliefs? It was an early version I guess, it had the good E88, it's on my car now until I get my E31 put together.
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None of the four stock motors I've taken apart had any piston wedges or eyebrows cut into them. Two 2.4s, flat tops. One 2.8 with dished pistons the other a ZX with flat tops. None had any unless the dished ones would be considered because they are deeper?
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Did you ever plug the coolant line that runs through the intake?
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I wonder what the auction fees would total from Mecum on $10,000? There's a lot of attention from that level.
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I haven't purchased them but Motorsport, thezstore.com has nice interior pieces from all I've read. Click on their ad at the top of the page. I've got the same car as your's I think, Red #110 with white interior.
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...like high heels and wigs.
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I think someone got a deal on that, automatic or not it's worth $10,000 from the pictures I saw.
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Dad gum Steve, that R&R job has gotten pretty deep. He's a lucky man you have the car, if you do something you do it right or not at all. I like that. That's the reason I've pulled and rebuilt the engines on my two favorite Zs, after getting them running good enough to leave me stranded somewhere. I know what I have now, I put it together.
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Most chain stores have the same. Not on their shelves but an overnight thing. Google the part number. You will have to bend the hard lines as the port angle changed. Good brakes are great! 8^)
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Without looking at them I'm gonna say the bleeder will be on the top of the "right" cylinder and the bottom of the wrong one. That's just a guess until the morning when I have my laptop to look and see. I'm using my phone now, sorry.
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I learned a trick from a commercial glass installer on poly butyl. They used Dollar Store Palmolive dishwashing detergent on their fingers and putty knives to smooth it out. It won't stick and pull when using that. I use it on my fingers smoothing silicone caulk. Works great.It's on page 194, "High-Idle Problems". It says that the symptoms were mostly for extreme cold weather, warm climate Zs possibly escaped modification. Here's what I followed on my early '77. It's a '78 motor picture. I didn't use the hardline to the AAR just a longer piece of heater hose. I don't know why it's sideways? Not like that until I uploaded it.
Perfectly placed feathers blazed her saddle for my young eyes.Do your gauges work? I lost those and a bunch of lights and it was popping the IGN fuse as soon as I turned the key. The car was running but I had a bad alternator that was "back feeding current through the ignition"? Another problem I had some years ago was no dash lights, my combo switch had gone bad. The way they are made every time you turn on the lights it archs on the plates internally. I fixed it myself, it was a bitch but I have more time than money. This is what I went by, http://www.kamikazeracing.org/dl/ZTech/Rebuild_240Z_combo_switch.pdf And here's a picture that shows the contact points. You might could talk to Mr Irwin about rebuilding yours. Click on "services", http://datsun-240z-upgrades.net/ Good luck!
You mean you can't pull the fuel supply line and from the pump and suck fuel up, like syphoning gas? If that's the case can you blow back towards the tank and here a bubbling noise? When I bought a 240 it would run to the end of my street and quit. I could pull the line off and blow back through it and clear the trash out then it run run long enough to make it back home. I had a cruddy gas tank.
Backfiring usually means it's a little rich. Have you checked to make sure the chokes aren't hanging up, are they shutting off and moving freely? Sometimes the the push/pull cables get loose and they won't shut them completely off. It may be in that linkage. Just guessing, good luck.
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