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What's RAL Pumpkin? I'm going to bead blast mine and the plan is Chevy orange with a second coat of dupli color matte clear. Hope to start soon but it's too hot for me now. I have the flapper style, '72 model. Yours look nice but I think some type of filler would have been better on those pitted areas, I know that will bother you. I've always kept up with your projects and they are top notch.

Coughing to me would be leaning out. Try restricting the fuel return hose to add more fuel.

Permatex aviation sealant with it. I go a little overboard but who cares. If the pick up tube leaks it'll just go back in the pan I guess but I like " bullet proof " when I can.

This is what I bought. http://m.advanceautoparts.com/h5/r/shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/felpro-gasket-materials-3157/5189950-P

I didn't realize I was old and out of shape until I did the work on mine this past year. The exhaust re-do a week or so ago kicked my pansy a**. It has at least motivated me to get in better shape. I have a weight bench in my den.

Captain I've got a '77 front bumper, shocks and all. Let me dig it out, hopefully today or tomorrow and I'll see what all I can find. It's stored under a house that I have rented out and will need to talk with the family before I go under there, don't want to be shot. The car was picked up by the front bumper at some point in it's life by a wrecker and I know one rubber side was split. I'm fairly sure I had to unbolt the rubber ends to remove the bumper and I hope I can find them. I'll let you know. Found a picture and the driver's side looks like the split one, I put some black Gorilla Tape over it.

Prices and pictures would be helpful for you and everyone else that's interested. I'm looking for an OE steering wheel and shifter knob if you have that too.

Jai and Sam, sittin' in a tree...LOL He sounds like a good guy. I'm glad he's helping you. 8^)

You should clean those sensor's connections really good too. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html

We think alike. I was using one of these until I saw a hole puncher for $1.

I was pretty sure you are the one that had that idea. Those pictures look great. Thank you! Cliff BTW That cost $1 dollar at a hobby store. Happy happy, joy joy

Those sensors in the thermostat housing can be cleaned up. Sandpaper or a bench grinder with a wire wheel. The thermotine connector could be switched around with the CTS connector, check that too. Sorry for all the post, just got in and scatter brained at the moment.

Thats what had me focusing on the TVS. My mechanic friend clamped the return hose to add more fuel and it ran better. Thats when I did the volume knob from radio shack.

Mine was just like what Zed says. The potentiometer was to add fuel on mine. It would spit and sputter through the intake and buck like a mad horse until 2,500 rpms then it ran good and pulled hard.

Is this fine tip Sharpie what I need to use? Silver is the color. Thanks!

My first rebuild it was in a felpro gasket kit for my 280. When I did my 240 I tapped one out of the gray gasket material you buy at chain stores. I like it best, its thicker. Lay a piece down and tap around the pickup tube then cut it out with a razor knife. I bought a hole punch at the Dollar Store for the bolt holes because I had to make a bunch of gaskets for the 2.4

Black rivets part number 90909-E4100, pack of 10.

Beermanpete's post, one before your's, #23. If you still have points set the ignition timing using the "dead timing" method (after checking/setting the point gap). Also, I don't see any confirmation in your posts that you have spark. Make sure you have spark at the plugs before going crazy with the timing and firing order. Perhaps there is a problem in the primary wiring.

112 & 918 are the '70s. 8^) He'll need a full dust cover behind the flywheel too, right? Is that bushing you're talking about the pilot bushing? Most good clutch kits come with one, my Exedy did.

The TPS may need adjusting. One screws locks it down the other has some movement for adjusting. Pop the cover off and see what rpms it moves off the right side contact.

I'm almost positive those lights come out through the back. No need to remove the finisher panel. I would do this first. Mine were bad dried up and cracked. Zed Head reccomendation on sealing that vinyl access panel on the inside bottom of the hatch would be next, for me. I had my spoilers painted and removed them. While that piece was off I was overwhelmed with fumes. DUI defense?

Thats the right numbers, I googled them real quick.

Google/images these numbers to make sure. The date matches up to my new tail lights purchase butt they have different descriptions and are priced a couple more bucks for one than the other? Same exact gaskets just different sides. 26552-E4100 RIM-COMB LAMP $34.29 26557-E4100 GASKET-LAMP $28.96 I've got pictures on my laptop I can post in the morning. I'm using my phone at the moment. I'll check back in the a.m Cliff

Wouldn't the rear spoiler disrupt the "back draft" effect on his car, for better or worse? I've got the part number for the tailight rubber if you need them. Still available from Nissan, my local dealership ordered mine. Maybe that's why I have no smell but I was thinking my spoiler caused it to ramp up and away instead of rolling back into the hatch area? What kind of shape is the rubber boot under the leather boot at the shifter?