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This is the closest I could find to what I read in the past. When I first bought my '77 the doors would lock but I would have to crawl through the hatch to unlike them, still do, I've yet to fix it. The article I read was on classiczcars.com but I can't find it now. It was talking about the rod connecting through the plastic retainers, the plastic would wear out and they fixed theirs by bending the rod. This thread kinda sorta touches on it, http://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/91565-driver-s-door-lock.html But I agree with Greg, if it bounces back it's most likely in the striker.

Past the ramps! Can't edit from my phone, don't understand that.

I used a tire changing tool for dirt bikes, we always called them spoons, flat steel with the ends angled up for prying under the beads. Put one across the locking ring and turned it until it hit the notches pass the ramps.

Is your's completely missing? Mine was busted so until I get a new mirror cut I've stuck the biggest circular one in there. It works pretty good too. They sale them as a farther distance view mirror, like for people pulling campers or boats. Cost less than $5 at walmart and just sticks on.

I've read where people have to re-bend the rod to tighten all that back to the original feel.

Are going with the cable throttle pull later on?

When I rebuilt my FI 280 I went #3 from advice from a mechanic, I wish I'd put it #2 though. On my 2.4 rebuild I recently finished I went with #2. Tom Monroe's book says use #2 if you run a ground cam. Glad to here your confirmation. Thanks! Oh yeah, we have the same head and grind I believe. I haven't put mine together yet and am running the freshend up e88 until I can rebuild the e31.

That's what someone said on here, the gear goes with the differential, 16 tooth with the 180 and 18 for the 200. So now it does and it seems to be right, compared to the other cars on the interstate. Thanks. Just realized the irony of your signature after your accident with the Expedition.

Nothing better than a Grandoggie! My parents like them better than the talking kind. They won't admit that but they sure do like babysitting mine better than my sister's doodoo diaper wearers. The Z barn is stunning!

Beautiful dog!

It's on Blue's tech tips too.

It has to removed to install a rear spoiler. Put a layer of polyethylene on first then put the vinyl cover over that. Mine has screws and push type plastic retainers.

I call them a "wall fish tape". https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=wall fish tape A small sink snake would work too I think. They have some new styled plastic ones that are just a few dollars.

I remember wrecking my dirtbike in the middle of the woods and it catching on fire. I pulled my helmet off and used it to scoop up mud to put out the fire.

I've seen those mousetrap springs put on wrong. Probably no big deal but you should compare images. Agree with Zed, bluing is a problem. The honey colored gold is like varnished oil, untouched build up.

Something I forgot to add that I am curious about after putting the 16 tooth speedometer cog in out of the OE 4 speed in the newly installed wide B 5 speed, at 2,000 rpms it shows 70 mph. Does that seem normal? I've got 15" wheels with the recommended tire size to keep the speedo accurate. Thanks for any experiences.

I was working construction in the mid nineties down in the Florida panhandle. We were driving home on the weekends and one of our guys had a fire in a Chevy van. He said it was just starting to burn really good when a truck driver stopped and put it out. They didn't total it out and he was POed at that trucker.

That's what I was thinking. It pops up a couple of inches and you could spray the top of the motor where the injectors are.

If you look at Blue's Tech Tips on atlantic Zs he has write up dropping and cleaning a tank. Its under EFI & FUEL. He doesn't coat his. The important thing is to neutralize the acid ASAP so you won't get flash rust.

Thank you. That's an easy to do project, mine is accessible in the hatch. From there I can see the light.

When I shorted my 240's it went to FULL. I may try and empty the tank, always need gas for the mower and I'm leery of running my $250 Bosch pump low of fuel.

Maybe he meant TIG wire? You could try the ground wire stripped out a piece of Romex, it's pretty flexible. Guitar string, piano wire...

I've never seen my light come on, maybe it's inop? On the wonderful scale you have made for us where do you think the light should come on? 63 OHMs? I might try and see if i can get it to come on, drive around the gas station's parking lot. And are the lights constant or do they get brighter the lower the level gets? Thank you Captain Obvious.

Ah man it's horrible. My batteries go dead during the months of July and August but that's only 2 months out of 12, not so bad. I read a couple of days ago about some kind of "heat dome" that's formed above the Mid-West and wouldn't you know it my part of Alabama is included.

I walked the soles off my shoes checking between my 240s. That's definitely a plus having two. Do you have a zx distributor on your's? I remember some problems with that black wire. I had to bypass the ceramic block by running a wire from one end straight across to the other I think. It works as covered on Blue's Tech Tips IIRC. Good luck on that small problem.