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If you decide to remove all that stuff I can post up some pictures of mine. Instead of buying an early intake I did my n-47 like you have. Glad to do that if you need something.

Congratulations! Grannyknot Motor Corporation. GMC

Also I would park it somewhere that wouldn't cause any trouble getting coolant, like out in the dirt, no puddles for animals or leave a mess and do like Mr Overlord says in post 3. On a cool motor with no tight radiator hose from pressure, take the cap off and stick a meat thermometer down in it. It'll burp up a little but should smooth out after the thermostat opens. You should see a decent flowing over the top row of cores.

Seems to me that you have the belt too loose or too tight? or the wrong width belt and it's slipping on the water pump pulley. I know you don't want to but if you have the old belt I'd put it on and see if the problem is still present.

You may have bought a cheap thermostat? Did it start running hotter with the belt change or did you do all of this at the same time? Gotta run now but will be reading your thread. Best of luck finding the problem. 8^)

Fan clutch sounds okay but does it make a louder noise like a constant "whooshing" that stays loud? They can go bad in the opposite by constantly turning. They normally make noise at first then quiet down when the oil heats up. Try it looser as msa says but I've always ran mine tight. If you bought it from msa it should be the right belt. Some smarter guys/girls will jump in soon with other ideas. I get tunnel vision too bad.

That new belt may have ruined the water pump? Hopefully not but I've read where the tightness of the belt ruins the old bearings in the pump. Checking the fan clutch is a good suggestion. See how many rounds it'll turn by spinning one blade by hand. Shouldn't make a complete rotation if it's cool. It is oil filled and gets looser with heated up oil. If the bearings are bad in the pump you'll be able to hear something rattling or the blades scraping the inside of the housing. I shouldn't have mentioned that, sorry.

I have a 180 thermostat in mine. When it gets to that temp it opens and you'll see coolant moving in the radiator. After mine opens it drops down to 170-175.

Here's what I mean on twisting the belt. Grab this hub and try to turn it. You shouldn't be able to budge it.

The new belt should be tight. Only able to twist one fourth of the belt. It runs the water pump as well as the alternator.

You'd be better off using the choke lever mounts that Art Singer sales on ebay, $30-$40? They screw down on the transmission tunnel in front of the ashtray hole not the plastic console like the OE one in your 2nd picture. That's one of the best aftermarket Z parts out there in my opinion.

Are you sure? OK CANCEL

You could get the block and head codes and be certain of what you have.

You have to worry about hitting rebar and ruining the bits ($500 each). The general contractor I used to work for had a Milwaukee core drill, it was close to $3,000 way back when.

It's wired like my '77 I think, original 280 distributor. Looks to have been repaired sometime too. The red and green wires connection box?

I used poly and rubber backs on the t/c rods after reading about them breaking from full poly. Never thought of softening them with small holes. That could be the solution for the poly steering rod coupler that is so hard and causes a twitchy steering wheel. The OE rubber ones are NLA. Good thinking! Did you just drill 1/16, or close, holes around the outer part of the t/c bushings?

Egg on face. Sorry I looked at a head in my spare bedroom to see that water hole then looked at your picture. Looking back those 6 cylinders are a dead give away.

I use muratic acid on ant beds. Works great and seeing them ants tie dying their little t shirts is extra funny.

I poured a gallon of acid in, sloshed for about five minutes. Dumped that in an empty 5 gal. bucket then dumped 2 gallons of water mixed with soda in. Sloshed another 5 mins. Then dumped that into the dirty acid bucket. Looked like the science fair volcanoes spewing foam everywhere. Then a quart of acetone, dumped that. Put the hose of my backpack blower in the filler hole on the tank with all the vents opened back up. Ran for 10 minutes full blast. Then one qt. of red kote. Drained the excess and let it bake in the sun for a week. Next weekend replaced all the vent hoses and put it all back in. No problems so far, 6 years on the 280 tank, 2 on the 240 tank. Best thing I learned between the two tanks was write down the steps and follow them quickly.

I see now your wheels aren't coated after a zoom in and they look great! A 70's 280 parked by a charging station is so funny to me. Great sense of humor and beautiful car. Keep on Z'ing.

I see something to read up on. You're head bolt holes are threaded, mine aren't on that E31. Is that something you did or do all P79s have that? Thanks!

This is what you're speaking of?

Oh! I understand, thank you sir. I used to use water from my dehumidifier for the radiator but then I found gallons for a dollar at the dollar store.

You missed a very important step. Rinse the tank with a gallon or two of water mixed with a lb. box of baking soda. No flash rust. I agree on the por-15, it's a waste of money, red kote does fine for the inside. That por 15 looks great on the outside though, great job. 8^) The soda neutralizes the acid.

Diseazed, is that the water elbow off the head that feeds the heater core? I've got mine plugged now but when I put the new hoses and water kock on the core if I have the heat off (water kock closed) does that stop coolant flow from that you are talking about? I think it will after playing with the functionality of that kock. Hate to hijack but if it's his DD I think he found another form of transportation.