siteunseen

I totally missed that! I'll ask him about it this evening. What are you, the Six Million Dollar Man? He had super vision too.

Your sons are so fortunate to have you for a Dad.

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/56918-egr-delete-1980-zx-na/?do=findComment&comment=510901

Euro cars had to have higher lights than U.S. We "needed" higher bumpers.

If it nearly died when you removed the oil cap you have more air getting in somehow. Mine drops around 200rms when I take the cap off but still runs. I've seen videos of them running with the whole valve cover off. My car is a 9/'76 and had the egr hole. The recall came out in '77. Try and be more acceptable of our recommendations, you are asking for help, not the other way around.

I like you!!! Two guys that love the 240s met, we agreed on a fair price and I met him in Tuscaloosa. He drove from Baton Rouge. Honesty is the key when selling 40 plus year old cars. Thanks again for the compliment. Coming from one of the forum's earliest members it really means a lot to me. Cliff

I finally caused you pause, with the best intentions, and you claim obscurity. That's one of my top ten favorite movies. Are you familiar with the "Hangover" series? Exact copy. The first VHS movie I ever bought, then Holy Grail.

Functional Movement Systems, as in the almighty Z. It's pouring down rain and I'm bored. I'll turn off my computer now, it's best for all.

Just got a text from the guy I sold it to. No more rust, repainted exterior and some interior. All new weatherstripping and shined up wheels. Looks good and he is very happy with it. Here's what it did look like, 110.zip

Here's the inside of the combo switch, it might help somehow.

Anybody ever bought just the glass and popped it back into place? MSA has them for 300ZXs but not my car. I will try auto glass shop Monday. Thanks for any help.

Do you think the blades stick worse when the carbon build up is hot and stickier? But if stuff expands when it gets hot that would explain your theory. My BCDD was easy to adjust, half a turn one way made it worse at a stop sign. Got out and turned it a whole turn the opposite way and it was fine. I get lucky sometimes. We need a Mechanic Monkey to ride under the hood, like Cartman's " Hooked on Monkey Fonics".

Zed you type faster than my finger pecking. To check the recall area for rotted aluminum hold a mirror under where the red arrow is in my picture, quick and easy to find but a whole can of worms if it's damaged.

Sounds like a lean condition, a vacuum leak somewhere, if it's popping through the engine compartment. In 1977 they had a recall on the EGR coupler to the rear of the intake. If that wasn't fixed, mine was not, the exhaust from the EGR tube will rot out the aluminum intake leaving a hole for unmetered air to enter causing the air/fuel mixture to be lean. You can borrow a vacuum gauge from a parts store and see what kind of vacuum you're pulling. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/airleaks/index.html This is just for explanation reasons, don't mess with the AFM.

Looks like the "push down part" off an ink pen.

Thanks Captain, I was wondering that myself. Mine would rev and then fall back down nicely in the garage. When I went for my first drive and came up on the first STOP sign I pushed the clutch in, it stayed at 1,500RPM for quite awhile it seemed to me but I was scared sh*tless when it happened and turned the key off immediately. Then I read about the BCDD and that's the moment I said "We gotta dig up DOM." then adjust the BCDD.

Here's that warming plate. I really can't remember if is part of the EGR or just extra crap I wanted to get rid of, sorry. It seems like one of the vacuum lines coming off of it was tied into the EGR somehow? Too many years and too many beers ago. EDIT: I found a good read.

On my '77 there is an EGR tunnel on the bottom of the intake. When I wanted to delete the EGR and all the accompanying components most every mechanic I asked about it told me the intake needs the heat from the EGR going through that tunnel to perform as designed. Of course I did it anyway and have never had a problem BUT I live in the Deep South, it's 65 degrees outside right now. One friend who raced his 280 told me the intake would "frost over" after the delete so he put small light bulbs over his when he raced farther up North to heat it up. You'll need to delete the BPT valve and the warming plate with the thermal vacuum switch behind the thermostat housing. Then plug the vacuum line under the TPS. Yellow circles in these two pictures. I found the cheapest way to acquire a block off plate was go to a local parts store and buy the EGR to intake gasket. Get a peice of 1/4" aluminium and transfer the gaskets dimensions to the aluminium and cut and drill, smooth the edges with a bench grinder. Then you have the gasket and a block off plate.

That looks like moisture splattering out the tailpipe. Mine do that too, my garage doors look the same. Maybe the cold exhaust pipes and the hot exhaust going through them create the moisture. Rub your finger across it and see if it's oily feeling.

Could you use the OE one to measure and grind out a window on your new timing kit? I think you need that, I've used it many times on mine.

That's great! Is that what I've heard called an exhaust "sniffer"? I want it. 8^)

Just turn the nut on the bottom a half a turn either way and drive. It's been a few years but I'm thinking counter clockwise brings the high rpms down. Google it, "BCDD adjust 280z"

There's an N42 on the classifieds now. I put a block off plate on my n47. There's a tunnel under there I don't think you can shave away. People talk about shaving, they're talking about the bosses all the crap bolts into. If you have access to a drill press and taps you can make your own rail for less than $50. It isn't easy though so Palnet is the easiest if you have the money.

Should she unhook the battery as well as OFF position? I've read that before but have know idea.

I've seen quite a few RHD in the U.S. Apparently legal.