siteunseen

Looks like the "push down part" off an ink pen.

Thanks Captain, I was wondering that myself. Mine would rev and then fall back down nicely in the garage. When I went for my first drive and came up on the first STOP sign I pushed the clutch in, it stayed at 1,500RPM for quite awhile it seemed to me but I was scared sh*tless when it happened and turned the key off immediately. Then I read about the BCDD and that's the moment I said "We gotta dig up DOM." then adjust the BCDD.

Here's that warming plate. I really can't remember if is part of the EGR or just extra crap I wanted to get rid of, sorry. It seems like one of the vacuum lines coming off of it was tied into the EGR somehow? Too many years and too many beers ago. EDIT: I found a good read.

On my '77 there is an EGR tunnel on the bottom of the intake. When I wanted to delete the EGR and all the accompanying components most every mechanic I asked about it told me the intake needs the heat from the EGR going through that tunnel to perform as designed. Of course I did it anyway and have never had a problem BUT I live in the Deep South, it's 65 degrees outside right now. One friend who raced his 280 told me the intake would "frost over" after the delete so he put small light bulbs over his when he raced farther up North to heat it up. You'll need to delete the BPT valve and the warming plate with the thermal vacuum switch behind the thermostat housing. Then plug the vacuum line under the TPS. Yellow circles in these two pictures. I found the cheapest way to acquire a block off plate was go to a local parts store and buy the EGR to intake gasket. Get a peice of 1/4" aluminium and transfer the gaskets dimensions to the aluminium and cut and drill, smooth the edges with a bench grinder. Then you have the gasket and a block off plate.

That looks like moisture splattering out the tailpipe. Mine do that too, my garage doors look the same. Maybe the cold exhaust pipes and the hot exhaust going through them create the moisture. Rub your finger across it and see if it's oily feeling.

Could you use the OE one to measure and grind out a window on your new timing kit? I think you need that, I've used it many times on mine.

That's great! Is that what I've heard called an exhaust "sniffer"? I want it. 8^)

Just turn the nut on the bottom a half a turn either way and drive. It's been a few years but I'm thinking counter clockwise brings the high rpms down. Google it, "BCDD adjust 280z"

There's an N42 on the classifieds now. I put a block off plate on my n47. There's a tunnel under there I don't think you can shave away. People talk about shaving, they're talking about the bosses all the crap bolts into. If you have access to a drill press and taps you can make your own rail for less than $50. It isn't easy though so Palnet is the easiest if you have the money.

Should she unhook the battery as well as OFF position? I've read that before but have know idea.

I've seen quite a few RHD in the U.S. Apparently legal.

So the highest octane has a higher boiling/vaporization temp? And has the least amount of oil, right?

If he still has it, @rossiz, has a complete efi system to sale. He went to carbs on his '78. Non egr intake, new injectors, all the good stuff.

Are you checking hemmings.com? The nice ones show up on there. There's a nice Z 432 now. $189,500.

Ooops! Sorry about that, thanks for correcting my mistake.

It's not in color but the colors are noted. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/78_280Z_wiring.pdf

This was very helpful for me and my '77, it sat for many years before I bought it. It seems to me that when the EFI gets out of whack people just park them. Thank goodness for the internet. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/

Looking at your picture I think the timing is off, retarded. The vacuum advance dashpot should be close to 8 o'clock. If you set the high idle screw like Lumens suggest, turn the distributor clockwise to advance it.

I'll pile on here too, rocker stripes are wrong and the right ones are available. ( ○ )

Click on your username and look in the address bar. I'm on my phone now but I believe your's is 30276.

The fitment guide is pretty extensive.

What do the new plugs look like now, first three compared to the last three? A new rotor button and cap are cheap and will get that out of the way. The only large hose I can think of on the balance tube is the brake booster hose towards the rear and then the PCV fitting and hose in the middle. Good luck, hopefully it's something small.

I changed mine out on a '72, it was a "hard' pedal and the PRMs would rise when I depressed the brake pedal. Surprisingly tough for me and I'm glad I decided not to go with the bigger booster from the 280s, drilling new mounting holes through the firewall. I loosened the MC from the booster and tied it in place with some wire coming down from my ceiling, pulled the old on out and finagled the new one into place. Then the PITA part was getting those 4 nuts on the threads above the pedals. It was tough, for me anyway. $100 for a remanufactured one that I needed to paint black, it was raw metal when I received it. If you can get a new booster, the lines flushed of air with new fluid for $250 that's not too expensive after doing the job myself. I would gladly pay that if I need another one.

Use your core muscles for bending, Sensei.