siteunseen

Another true or false question. Can a timing chain be too tight and cause HP drain? I can't remember if I got the chain on then tightened the guides as far out as they would go. I do remember a rubber like washer that went between the plunger and the housing. It was a ZX timing kit with an extra adjustment or two, IIRC the guides were hard to line up to the 2.4 block.

I can say this from personal experience, can't explain it just say it. True! When I built my '77 I started on #3 with all new stuff. It ran great and had plenty of lowend. Two or 3 years later I did the '72 the same. It hits the redline so fast I can't stand to drive it hard, like beating a cat it just just gets louder. In the summer of 2018 I put the 280 back to #1 after I bought a wedge tool. Ran a good bit worse than I was used to so within one measly day of driving I went back to #3. Now the 240 is going back to at least #2, probably #1, but that chain is so damn tight I'm not sure I'll get the sprocket off and back on in the car. I read that Racer Brown write up on Datsun's 510, L20 I suppose. I came to the understanding, right or wrong's on me, advancing all three things the cam does actually improves performance and efficiency although you lose some top end power. The 280 has an R200 so the redline came slower. The 240 with the r180 goes up too fast and I don't like it. http://www.datsport.com/racer-brown.html

The dvd from ztherapy says loosen the screws on the dome and find where it raises and falls free then tighten the screws.

The book I have says use the higher numbers for chain stretch. Try it and see, all you'll loose is a zip tie.

Wait until about 7p.m. That's when things start getting fuzzy. When I did #3 it was just about impossible to get the sprocket on the cam. Everything was new.

If you get really bored try hole #3 on the cam spocket and see how much it pulls the tensioner in. Just for poops and giggles.

That's the dumbest thing I've said today but it's still really early... Captain you have a P79 already, not an MN47. Phillip was talking about square exhaust ports. Sorry! Back to the Salt Mines for me. ?

Wow, that made a big difference. Anxious to read Hoover's MN47 offerings.

That fpr no matter where it is regulates the fuel pressure. My 77 had in on both sides return on bottom vacuum nipple on top. With mine and your straight shot fuel rails comes in the front closer to the radiator. Then the fpr takes that incoming fuel and regulates it (same psi) for the whole rail. It will take what you need and dump the excess through the return. That's the cool thing about those aluminum rails, they constantly flow fresh "cool fuel". No fuel overheating causing the hot restart problem a lot of folks experience. So to answer your original question, the 78 fpr has an incoming fuel nipple that regulates the psi. And a vacuum nipple on top. Rockauto.com had one for $75 when I did mine.

Opinions here please. I have access to an N42 and a P79. Without much drama, which would be the easiest to "hop up"? I've read the P79 shaving and older valves work supergood but is there that big of a difference in a N42 head. I like square exhaust ports.

@Diseazd would be another P79 king.

@Jeff G 78

Going by my '77 and what I did as far as removing everything like your sons car, my honest opinion would be go back to a '78 fuel pressure regulator with that fuel rail. Unless you injectors are some fuel hogs it should run fine with the OE style FPR. I ran into that same dilemma when I did mine but after tons of reading I found the '78 one inlet style was sufficient. Maybe the previous owner read something I missed but I doubt it.

They are using the doughnut spares in the raised rear deck of the '77 and '78 280s with larger fuel tanks. They came with a collapsible spare and a can of air 40 plus years ago so you can't really trust them anymore. The weight difference would be about the same as a gallon of gas.

Mine have a "slide bolt" type lockdown at bottom. They rattle so they hang on the wall of my garage. Similar to this...

I corrected that as your typing I guess. So Nissan had no factories in the US at the time? I do know they never went back to Japan.

Where does it stop, untruths here and there? Sets up regrets down the road imho. Google "240z restoration program" and see what Nissans contractors did. I wish I could tell you but after reading quite a few post no one mentioned it.

All mine are rounded off on my '77. I use these for the flare nuts...

Can you not bend the arm that connects to the jet or nozzle? Maybe I'm not "on the same page"?

Here's more info to add to Jonbill's answer. Thanks to @240260280 http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/comprod/ball&socket/index.htm

That's for an L20 motor. Are they the same length chain? Edit#1 The measurements are so close it is the same.

That's much better than what I did! Remember this!

I forgot my whole point. ? If you have a fuel pressure gauge you can see while driving it will tell you more. My fuel pressure went down the more I used the motor. It was sucking in a bunch of unmetered air through that hole.

I screwed 3/8s barb on a cheap gauge from Lowe's pool supplies department. I believe I used some 5/16" hose for a tight fit then put a zip tye or maybe a small worm gear clamp? Worked out great. I found a big rotted hole under the intake.