siteunseen

The one I scanned? If it worked I'm happy. I wasn't sure the true size would come out on a printed piece of paper. Thanks

MSA's sales department is very much more easier than the website. They're nice as can be and always give me a better price than online. Plus the 10% discount we get is always deducted. To me their website is more like an old fashioned paper catalog, you find what you need and give them a call to order. I like that. My $.02

Well thank you! I am lucky, scares me sometimes lucky. Frugal too, scares OTHERS sometimes frugal. ?

I had a ZX1100 that would get the "death wobble" around 120mph. My mechanic, drag racer and good friend told me to just let go of the grips but keep my hands in place and it would stop on it's on. It works! I wouldn't dare do that now that I'm older and in debt but when I was younger I did some dumb $^!#.

I just remembered my first time doing this, nervously I will add. I used a long screwdriver turned upside down. The handle fit perfect and held the tensioner back then my nightmare began. I couldn't get the damn screwdriver out! Finally got a good hold of the flat blade with some vise grips and pulled like a mother. Then I did my Happy Dance.

Well Mr T Wood I hope when you print it out the measurements will be true and you can lay it down on a piece of wood, draw it out and then cut it out. Let me know if I can be of anymore help. Cliff

It's 7/8" at the bottom and 2 1/2" at the top.

I can do that! Quick beer first, this makes my head hurt just thinking about this little job.

The curved side goes with the chain's curve. Straight side on the straight side of the chain. You want to drive it down until it hits the lower chain sprocket, red arrow. You'll feel it "click" into place when it pushes the tensioner in, yellow circle.

Mine downloads fine. Click the DOWNLOAD as seen in my screen grab.

I put engine lube on the sides of my wooden one. Slides in and out a lot easier. The blue plastic one is one use junk but good for copying to wood. Scared me to death when the cheap pull out cord broke.

I'll use my phone for part 2, pictures, so hold on...

Okay, this is going to be a couple of post to hopefully get it right so bear with me. Here's the scan first off. It's a pdf file you can print out then cut the shape out to make your tool. Save it to your computer then open it and PRINT. I think that'll work? tensioner tool.pdf

That's what I like about you Zed Head, you're Big Picture! I can't see past the end of my nose. If he's not thinking about changing the cam, and I would not, this would be overkill I guess. You and I have nothing like a 16 year old chomping at the bits to drive a Z so we're a little more methodical after all we've read on this forum. @thetwood I would hold off on the cam specs I guess. That was me poking you along and I apologize. It's like putting clean socks on dirty feet. ? The basic stuff is where your mind should be right now. I think if you set it up like mine it'd be fine (of course). You'll need a '78 fuel pressure regulator. Those adjustable ones are s h i t.

Markings on the spring perches too.

Okay. Big cars are called Land Yachts here. I guess my Zs are Dinghies then?

Is that a thing up there, Zees vs Zeds?

I think he's wanting to see the writing under the cam sprocket to determine what cam he has. Good to know if you can find it. Aftermarket ones have different valve specs. If I was you I would read up on sprocket holes 1,2 and 3. They can be swapped to make up a tighter chain after wearing. They stretch somehow. Blues, er Japanese Racing White's, Tech Tips has a write up on it. Google "Blues Tech Tips". I'll give the scan a try tomorrow after work. Today is for running my mouth and beers, or vice versa.

Hard to tell isn't it!

Oh, I'm talking about the tool you'll have to have to push in the tensioner. ?

There it is! If you're not careful that timing chain tensioner will ruin your day/week. The cheap plastic ones are very scary to use trust me. If you have some hardwood scraps you can make your own. I will trace around mine and fax it to you then you can make your own. If you get that far let me know. Yep, still have a fax machine. If YOU don't I will scan and email it to you.

Those 3 screws have the dizzy vacuum hose connection on the front one. Closer to the valve cover, pointing more towards the radiator. I can't find a image, sorry.

I'm thinking with jonbill on this. Sounds exactly what my 240 did when first bought. The tank was full of crud. After it all settled back down it ran great for about 15 minutes. Buy a fram g2 for a couple of dollars and next time it happens put it on and see if it runs better.

If that's in 4th gear I'd leave it be. Pretty good numbers imo. But you could set it at tdc and remove the distributor and see where the spindle is. Should look like this... My distributor is maxed out too. I'm at 17 btdc and 34 full advance at 3,000 or 3,500? can't remember but at the higher rpm my timing mark is at 0. At idle its 17. I'm no ignition guy but could you plugs wires be off on the cap?

Older Efi cars use milder cams from what I've read. Go to motorsportsauto.com or MSA and read their cam recommendations for fuel injection. They sale Schneider cams. You might save yourself some trouble just assuming your cam came from them? A shot in the dark...