Captain Obvious

Or zKarsTheMan.

So, I'm guessing from your implication of the above... You pulled up on the gas pedal with your toes and the hanging RPM's did not drop off?

Sorry Newton... There aren't any part numbers, nor are those parts for sale. I made that brass bushing myself on my lathe, and the ball is the original one that I pulled out of the mirror base. I don't remember if I wrote the dimensions for the bushing down anywhere. I may have created a sketch, but for one-off simple stuff like that I usually just make it up as I go along. If I'm thinking I might make more in the future, I write it down, but if it's something I don't believe I'll ever do again, I sometimes don't. I'll check when I get a chance. I fixed that pair of racing mirrors, used them on my car for a year or so, and then changed to a different mirror style. Those mirrors have since been sold and I don't have access to them anymore to take measurements.

The ball just presses into the base housing. It has some splines machined into it to bite a little into the base, but it's just pressed in. Just pull straight out with enough force and the ball will come out of the base. It's been a number of years since I did that job, and the details are fading, but I think I just grabbed the round part of the ball with some soft jaws in a vice and then tapped the base with a plastic mallet until it came free from the ball. I do remember that I used a little epoxy on the splines when I put it back together just to take up the gaps and be sure it stayed together. Splined fits like that are usually not designed to be used more than once. So about your method... I toyed around with similar ideas with a slot in a piece of something that would keep the ball from pulling through, and gave up because I had to either a) make the slot big enough to fit over the shaft of the ball, or 2) make the reinforcement out of something thin enough to bend like you did. Problem is I was worried if I made it out of something thin, it would just bend under the force of use. What I did NOT think of, was your great idea of using the screw posts for additional support for the reinforcing part. Using those posts to support it should keep even a thinner material from opening up again under use. Much simpler than what I did, and probably works just as well!

As for the LED blinker and an ignition disabler... I actually think it would be more theft resistant if they were NOT connected in any way. The thief is going to pull out the blinker LED and follow the wires. If they lead to a defeat mechanism, you have just showed him the way there. Better they were completely independent?

Haha! I like the little chaser LED. Reminds me of a project I did for one of my electronics design classes a long time ago. - I made an electronic metronome. Similar to the above, but when the LED reached the end of the row, it changed direction and went back the other way. Like a Cylon. An old school Cylon. Cylon Classic. I don't remember the details of the chips I used, but I do know there were more than just two of them...

What he said. If the RPM's drop properly when you pull the pedal up with your foot, then it's a linkage issue or a throttle plate issue. If the RPM's hang even if you pull up with your foot, then the BCDD is the prime suspect.

Amateur. Seriously though. Nice fix! A lot easier than what I did!!

That would be a small amount of theft resistance. That couldn't hurt either.

Wait... I thought the wingnuts were supposed to be at 12 and 6??? Seriously though... It's a beautiful car. Not sure it's 70K beautiful, but it's beautiful.

It's a beautiful example, and I'm clearly nit-picking, but since we're dog piling... Paint runs or something else weird going on with the tops of the front strut towers Corrosion pitting in fan guard Polished valve cover Unpainted fender and hood bolts (didn't do a final color spray with the body panels in place). Black hood torsion springs. Are they supposed to be body colored? Failed plating on fan pulley and throttle opener diaphragm. Not a big deal, but stick out in contrast to the other new plating elsewhere. Brake hard lines near master cylinder look a little disorganized. Is that stock routing? Gotta love a good nit-pick pile-on!

gnosez, That sucks. That'll certainly make for a bad day! Hope that doesn't happen often.

Theft deterrent. Theft resistance. Theft recovery. Does it do anything to help? Well it certainly can't ENCOURAGE theft, right?

So it's apparently a long standing tradition in the Great White North to have beautiful women perched atop your cars? I like it!!!

Not surprised. Most flat tops have been swapped out by now. I consider that unfortunate, but I'm clearly in the minority. Good luck with the rest of the project!

Jasonxp, Haha! Glad to help. You weren't searching in the right part of the web. ClassicZ's got you covered! So... You're going to move your original 260 flat top carbs over onto that 280 motor, right? gnosez, What do we need to do to earn the sound of one hand clapping? That'll be my new goal.

I'd even hit it with SteveJ's stick. Looks like a well cared for typical unmolested Z.

"It might make the likes of Grannyknot orgasm into his popcorn" Pics or it didn't happen.

One book, "Swedish-made Peenis Enlargers And Me: This Sort of Thing Is My Bag Baby", by Austin Powers. LOL!!

I don't even know what this is! This sort of thing ain't my bag, baby.

Clearly academic, but just in case anyone wants to know... That "400 RPM" cutout is a bit of a misnomer. They use the "N" output from the alternator to pull in the fuel cut relay #1, and that "N" output from the alternator is actually the "Neutral" connection of a three phase "Y" connected generator. The voltage on this neutral output is the normal alternator output voltage divided by the square root of three. So for example, when the alternator output is twelve Volts, the neutral wire should have about seven Volts on it: Datsun assumes that by the time the engine is spinning at 400 RPM or higher, the alternator is up and operating, and the voltage on the neutral output is high enough to pull in the fuel cut relay. So the "400 RPM" threshold is a little arbitrary, but the intent is "when the engine is running, the electric fuel pump will run". Geek mode off...

I was thinking the same thing. It also looks like that group of wires splits at the back side of the rad. Some of the wires go in front, and some head towards the distributor. I'm wondering if maybe they used a special race simplified "wire only what's needed" group of wires for critical functions. Stuff like ignition and cooling. Simplicity = reliability.

Previous owners suck. EOF.

Looking over the engine compartment pic above... In addition to the stuff you mentioned, here's a couple things that caught my eye: Special "racing tape" secure on the clutch and master cylinder caps. Multiple piece upper radiator hose? Hose clamps in the middle? Vent nipple on valve cover angled forward to adapt to different PCV system. "OIL" cap. I thought the early ones were elephant? Couple unharnessed wires up and over the left strut tower. Is that stock? "D" shaped washers on some of the fender bolts for clearance into sheet metal corner.

Yeah, I saw the mounting bolts you had threaded in, and that's what surprised me. I'm no Z genealogy expert, and probably should have tempered my statements above, but I thought the early 280's were the same as the 240/260's. Seems not... I was also wondering if you maybe had the rear mounting bolts threaded into the wrong spots, but it seems you ruled that out as well? Snap a pic or two of your seat rails when they turn up. More learning to be had!