Captain Obvious

Reminds me of something I saw on craigslist... There's a Roadster for sale nearish me. At least that's what he says it is... Kinda hard to tell from the pic, but at least his asking price is realistic: https://southjersey.craigslist.org/cto/5990416097.html

Yeah, I can see that. That's what I was thinking when I said it was faster. Just listen for the beep instead of waiting for the display to settle. I'm not judging. And that brings up one of the reasons I don't like autoranging... It takes longer for the display to settle because it has to first figure out the correct range and THEN display the value.

A perfect, irreverent, questionable judgment, barely legal, authorities attracting... storm.

Yes, that's the one. We need to keep the two of you apart. I fear it's a perfect storm...

Personally, I'm not a big fan of auto-ranging. I've found them to be annoying. And I don't think I would use a "continuity" setting much either. I just use a low Ohms scale. What is "continuity" anyway on a meter? Some arbitrary threshold below which they sound the beeper? About the only advantage I can see is that it might be a little faster than waiting for the reading to settle?

HAHAHA!!! I didn't think of that. Yeah, let's hope Sharpie isn't an etch resist!

I'm not going to take my battery terminal off to put tape on the posts every time I park the car. Needs to be something that I can do discreetly and easily. "Easy for the owner to use while making it difficult for the thief to detect, disable, or bypass."

One other detail for now... I don't have the flat tops for that car. HE has the flat tops for that car. And they're ON the engine. Modified flat tops with some custom improvements:

About time you started posting! The short story here is that I unfortunately had to relinquish ownership of my father's 260Z because I wanted to drive a Z car again before I joined my dad in the hereafter and I wasn't sure I had it in me to go through the amount of time, effort, and expense to finish that project. Thankfully a very long time buddy of mine GGRIII (Gary who some of you met in Toronto) had coveted the car ever since the first day he saw it on a fishing expedition and jumped at the chance to buy it. I'm embellishing a little of course, but the good part is that even the car isn't under my ownership anymore, it's still "in the family" and I still get to have a hand in the reconstruction. GGRIII thankfully has more resources to work on a project of this magnitude, and I'm thankful that my father's old car has found such a wonderful loving home. I bought my current 77, and Gary bought my 74. I am honored! My dad is honored! And I can't wait until I get to drive it again! The car has gone from this running and driving rough example: Through this: And this: To come out the other side as this: Not done yet, but this is the fun part!

Wait a minute... I just took a quick look at mine, and the screw goes all the way through. So if the collar is threaded on the FAR side, then there shouldn't be any burrs. It just passes through a hole in the rod and picks up the threads on the far side. And the collar is split. I can't believe you can't just tap that thing off. Famous last words from someone who hasn't tried, right?

Yeah, then there might be a burr on the shaft as well that might complicate matters. Let's hope they put a flat spot on the shaft where the setscrew contacts to account for that. Pet peeve of mine - Setscrews directly on shafts with no provision for dealing with the burr... Hopefully they didn't do that.

Nice. I'd eat off that. Is that some sort of anomaly between cylinders 4 and 5, or just a trick of the light?

Cool. So mine is stock, but my tamper resistant clip has walked off somewhere over the years. Note that in 78, they changed all that (except for California). In 78 they cheapened up the BCDD and removed the altitude compensating portion off the bottom for everyone except CA. Presumably, either they argued that only CA had enough "in-state" altitude changes to warrant the compensator, or they just decided that it would be more costly to go through all the CA qualifications and certs so they just left that state alone. Anyway, the whole thing got shorter, and the adjustment screw looks different. I have a non-CA version here if someone wants to see that.

I haven't done it myself, but I second Zed's assessment. Once you loosen the screws, the collars should slide along the rod. Does the screw thread into the collar itself, or is the hole in the collar a through hole and the screw threads into the throttle rod? I ask because if the screw is threaded into the collar and the tip of the screw presses against the rod when tight, it may have kicked up a burr where the screw tip deformed the rod.

If I only had a pair of bushings from which to take measurements.....

Can't wait to see what it looks like after the dip! Hopefully there's metal under that paint and undercoating. The new owner of my old 260 has claimed that the only thing holding the car together was the tar undercoating...

I don't know if it's stock or a PO mod, but I've got a Nyloc style lock nut on mine. Small open end wrench on the flats of the adjuster screw, back off the lock nut a little, turn the adjuster with the open end wrench, and then retighten the lock nut.

Great! Wonder why it was so far out of whack... Do you think the PO was in there messing with things? And as for the suspension, I went through all mine a while back, and the night and day difference was amazing. It's so much better now!

Yes, you can get springs made out of stainless. I'm no spring or materials expert, but I'm assuming you give up some performance in other areas as a trade off for the corrosion resistance, but this doesn't appear to be a very demanding application. I bet someone who knows what they are doing could design a stainless version that would work. I've never messed with the early vent system ever, so I know nothing about it... It would be easier to make if it were a simple U shape instead of having that extra radius at the root of the clip on the one side. Is that feature important? Does the clip need to clear a lip or something there? Another idea is that similar clips (speed nuts, barrel nuts) are very common items. Maybe you could find one in suitable size and grind the hole out to a size that will accept the original clips that grab the posts?

Haha!! I was wondering what the view was from the land of ice and snow.

zed2, I don't think the first tape you listed is a good choice. It doesn't appear that it's for wrapping harnesses... It appears it's for attaching already wrapped harnesses in place so they don't flop around. It uses the very sticky acrylic adhesive like they use on foam mounting tape: Recommended Applications Bonding of cellular urethane, polystyrene and polypropylene parts Securing wire harnesses to headliners Bonding impact relaxation pads to door panels Attaching interior trim The second choice might be OK, but tough to tell since there's no real info on the product. As a matter of fact, if you take a look at the pics of the rolls, you can see that they even peeled the cardboard off the inside of the spools so you can't see the manufacturers name and part numbers and figure out who it's from. All you know is that it's impossible to find except through them, and it's 100% correct for all years 1955 to Present. Marketing...

Charles, I was hoping you would see this thread. I remember you were having troubles finding those things.

I wrapped my entire engine bay harness (from under the dash to the coil and both headlight stubs), and I used just over one roll. Point is... I've got some left over from my work, and you're happy to give it a try. Use what you need and send the rest back? If you're just doing some stuff over by the coil, you won't need much. Elliot EE 201. LMK if you're interested.

Beautiful. And may I be first to suggest that it's "built like a tank"?

Wait.... Before we continue to have fun at someone else's expense. Is your wife from Tunisia?