Captain Obvious

Wait... Really? Do your seat rails look like this: Or like this: Or none of the above???

Well you used the right stuff. Maybe kiddo nicked it? Maybe they opened the box with a razor knife at NAPA? Maybe just a bad day for you? In any event, glad that it didn't become something serious, and let's hope it was a one time anomaly!

If you're going to make seat mounting brackets, keep in mind that 77-78 are different than anything else. They use different seat rails and have front mounting holes on an angle instead of straight down. I don't know if the rear bracket is the same, but I can guarantee that the front one is different than anything prior.

You didn't use regular fuel line hose to splice in your gauge, did you? You used the fuel injected variety, right? Rated for the higher pressures? I know, I know... But it's my job to ask.

Oops. I don't have that part. I was talking about the roundish part that the headlight actually mounts to. Confusion over terms. I always heard the part you are looking for referred to as "scoops" or "sugar scoops". Sorry for getting your hopes up.

I think I have a pair from a 280. I believe the metal portion is the same, but I don't have the wiring pigtail... Just the metal. Do you have the wires already?

Haha! Made ya look! My PO bead blasted everything and then clear coated the hardware instead of the original yellow coating. Not only does it look "wrong" to me, but it also rusts as soon as you chip the clear coat paint with a wrench. Looked great to sell the car (to me), but overall I think it is poor judgment. I would love to go through what you are and have all the plating redone. I think that looks awesome when complete.

Nice! I was messing with shop lights a couple months ago as well. I got tired of replacing 13W fluorescent bulb in my typical shop light, so I took it apart and modified it to use a 60W equivalent LED bulb instead of the 13W flourescent. Then I decided that I could stuff TWO of the 60W LED bulbs in there. Took a shoehorn and some creativity, but I got them both in. No more "blink - blink - blink - ON" of the fluorescent ballast. It's instant on, full bright even in sub-zero temps, and it's now like holding the illumination brightness of the SUN in your hand. AND it even runs cooler than the 13W fluorescent! I've got something like 1660 lumens of awesome warm while illumination POWER on the end of a cord!!

Wuss. Post a pic without the hold-down plate installed so we can see if lug nuts were ever torqued down and smeared the paint.

No, no, no... Don't be sorry. We're all good. I'm not denying that it happened to you. I'm just saying that the REASON it happened is different. Next time we get together, I'll draw some pictures on napkins and we'll talk some theory.

I agree about the restrictor washer you mentioned. One of my missions has been to stamp out that no thermostat overheating myth. So, I'm not denying that there are cars out there that overheated after the thermostat was removed, but the reason is definitely not that "the coolant flowed through the block too fast to pick up the heat" or that "the coolant flowed so quickly through the radiator that it didn't have time to cool off." Those are both fundamentally flawed concepts. I would claim that the situations where a car will overheat if the thermostat is removed is because of a second order effect. Stuff like the following: Reduction in block pressure (as you mentioned) which will lower the boiling point of the coolant. Increased flow rate resulting in local loop eddy currents in the block which could cause poor coolant refresh in certain areas. Increased flow rate resulting in cavitation (low pressure) which will lower the boiling point of the coolant. Certainly not because the coolant didn't "have time to do what it was supposed to do". In fact, the exact opposite is true, and is exactly how the thermostat works in the first place!

Haha!! Thank you.Thank you... I'm here all night.

Nuh Uh.

I don't think they're supposed to be at a right angle. It's more like 30 degrees:

For resistance measurements of the temp sensors (both air and water), here's a thread I put together with some detailed info: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/56146-280z-efi-temperature-sensor-vs-resistance-chart/

I've not looked hard, but I'm not aware of anybody selling the air temp sensor separately from the AFM. And I've not heard a lot of people having failures with that component either. So with that in mind... Before you go chasing a replacement are you sure the ATS has a problem? Out in the garage on a cold December day in Harrisburg, your ATS resistance should be up around 5000 Ohms. That high resistance can appear to be open circuit (or "no continuity") to those not expecting it to be that high and not having the meter on a range capable of detecting it. In other words... When you say you have "no continuity", what range is your meter on to make that determination? All that said though, those other AFM measurements don't look so good. Especially the 255 between 7 and 8. Between that and the scraping inside, it makes me wonder if someone hasn't been in there mucking around in the past. If I were you, I would ask around a little on the forum if there is someone who has a spare you can use just to test the system. I'm sorry that I don't have a spare AFM, but I'm sure someone here does.

Yeah, that straightener caught my eye as well. I'm going to have to show that to my Z buddy who was with me at your place. He's approaching that stage on his Z right about now as well. He's got the flaring tool and the roll of tubing and is going to be making lines soon.

Your suppositions so far are correct. The device above the ECU is the fuel injection relay, the item below the brake booster is the dropping resistors, and as site already mentioned, the device with the naked nipple is the throttle let-off dashpot. It doesn't get a hose, but there should be a little filter under that white plastic cap. As for connector cleaning... I've found that the ECU and FI relay are usually OK, but anything in the engine compartment is suspect. However, it never hurts to take a look at any connector just to be sure. And about the vacuum lines, if they split or crack when you take them off, then it was time to replace them anyway.

I have the same problem... Websites are becoming so loaded with "features" to provide a better "user experience" or some bull like that. Problem is the websites that take advantage of those advanced features (like flash, etc) won't even load right without them. So the people who don't want to allow that kind of stuff are scrod. I just want websites to load fast and work. I don't need videos. I don't need hover over. I just want fast, secure, and simple.

"Put this thing together for the show" Duh! Well yeah! Do we need to have an emergency meeting of the ClassicZ club at your place during the show to put that thing back together?? I warn you though... The previous emergency meetings were at the bar.

Greg!!

Good catch!! Just another example of technology being too smart for it's own good. HAL 9000 needs to open the pod bay doors, and S30 needs to let you control your own temperature.

I'm sorry Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that. I think the coolant supply is shut off for you when the A/C is enabled. I guess the designers decided that we all weren't smart enough to move the temp slider ourselves.

The ad has been deleted. Hope it was someone from the forum!

I decided on the Escort core because it was the thinnest, smallest, most generic, cheap core that I could find with tubes that stuck straight out on the same side. No long funky bent tubes. No weird mounting flanges. Generic, small, thin, and cheap because it's from a ubiquitous car and not from a low volume hard to find Ferrari. Now granted, some of this is a crapshoot due to the way they measure the cores... The manufacturers usually measure the "core" part of the core, and don't include things like the end caps and tubes in the dimensions. Or instead, they measure the whole thing tip-to-stern, tubes included. This makes real life comparisons and evaluations difficult, but that Escort core was simple so I was hoping I could make it work. Because of that way the dimensions are made, there's a real chance that there might be something better out there, but in order to know for sure, you would either have to buy a bunch of them and compare on the bench, or work for a company that makes heater cores and have access to better specs or real parts sitting on the shelf.