Captain Obvious

Wow! You must have wanted to get the heck out of the garage something fierce!! You went from pink into purple.

In theory, a gasket is never required at that location, because there should never be brake fluid at that seam in the first place. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but you've got a master cylinder problem.

Wait, wait, wait... So is that a Tree Forty or a Tree Sixty?

You're not worthy.

Haha!! That's awesome! Did it miss the front suspension cross member, or is the steering rack growing right through it?

Cool. If I'd have slathered that stuff on, I'd need to add some additional dash mounting points to support the weight. I'm picturing a cable from the clock up to the rear view mirror mounting screws...

Dash continues to look good. Buttload of work, but looks good! So how does the weight of the dash compare to the original? Noticeable increase?

If you're looking for a performance mod, I would pull the stock 2.7 liter v6 and drop in a 2.8 liter in-line 6-cylinder. Nissan made a nice torquey 2.8 that fits very well Only other suggestion would be to put aftermarket wheels on it. As for the hood being turbo or not... They used the same vented hood on all versions in 83. I don't know my ZX's enough to tell if that's an 83, but if it is, then that's the stock hood regardless if it's turbo or not.

Glad to help! I've used those trailers a grand total of thrice now. Once, as the apprentice, helping jfa.series1. Once, as the teacher, hauling my sons new car home. Once, as the supervisor, hauling my buddy's 260Z to the paint shop. Those hold down strap system is pretty sweet.

Glad the trip worked out as planned. My only comment is that I thought you were supposed to have the strap centered down the middle of the tire. The lower ratchet point moves inboard and out to allow for adjustment, and I think centered is desired. I know it doesn't matter for you now, but maybe for the next guy? I'm no expert on the use of those trailers, but maybe someone else more experienced can confirm / deny?

Yup. That's from either 1985 or 86. I had just started working a real job out of college and for the first time in my life had enough money to buy food AND a car. That Z is why I have my current one. Rest it's soul... It died at the hands of a tractor trailer on the interstate in 1988. I was OK, but the Z didn't make it. The Jag in the background was owned by the guy a couple houses down. He also had a Lotus Esprit, and a Ferrari 308. Both were engine fire salvage wrecks and put them back together.

I don't have to wait ten seconds for my Z to pick up. I saw you mention this in the other thread and was going to ask... I second Zeds question. What RPM are you stomping at?

There are differences in how the 280 horn pad and the 240 horn pad mount, but as long as you are using everything from the same year (ish), then there's no problem. Get the 240 steering wheel, the 240 horn pad mounting hardware and stuff, and a 240 horn pad. They'll all work fine together and will fit on any year column. All the column splines and mounting scheme is the same for all the years.

Actually, the black part is the core, typically called a "ferrite core". It isn't a good conductor of electricity, but it is much better at conduction magnetic lines than air. The metal end rivet looking headed things just to make electrical connections to the wire. I don't know how deep they go, but I can guarantee that they don't go all the way from one end to the other. Think about it... If there was a conductive nail right through the middle of that thing, then the coil on the outside would be dead shorted out and would be superfluous.

Datsun referred to that device as an "amplifier", and as Zed Head mentioned above, it controlled the actuation of some of the emissions controls starting in 74 (maybe 73?). There is a very small mechanical switch built against the speedo needle and that switch opens (or closes?) when the speedo needle reaches a certain speed (10 mph). The switch is very small and they use that amplifier box to control more current than the switch could handle directly. As for a regulator for the gauges, the Z dash gauges do not utilize an external regulator like some other cars. Instead, each gauge has it's own internally built in regulator. There was some discussion of that function in these threads: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/44557-has-anyone-successfully-repaired-bimetal-contacts-in-a-dash-gauge/ http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/49186-curious-problem-with-my-gauges-question-about-wiring/ As well as this source that is Jeep related, but the theory is the same: http://civilianjeep.info/Strenk/Gauge%20web%20page/WebPageGauges1.htm

F.

SWMBO has a 2002 Boxster. I'm not a "Porsche Guy" and I know very little about it. Are we at risk for the IMS bearing issues or is that a different model/year? I don't want to work on it. Ever.

Hate to break it to ya, but a Z32 300ZX is challenging to work on even if it DOESN'T have the turbos. I sold my 94 and bought my 77. The 94 was a "better" car in just about every respect, but despite that, I've never looked back!

Been there too, done that too. Made up some new words too.

Nicholas, Glad to help and it was really nice meeting you. It was such a nice driving day that I took the long way home. It won't be too much longer before my Z is packed away for the winter. So the details on testing your ECU was that both transistors looked OK with just a meter test, but because of the somewhat unusual internal construction of the output transistors, testing them with just a meter might not tell the whole story. And that's what I think is happening with yours. Not that you should ever need to know or care, but the ECU output transistors employ an internal construction known as "Darlington", which means there are actually TWO transistors packaged together. And because of this construction, you can't always get a good handle on what's going on inside with that simple test. Here is where I think your transistor failed, and this failure mode can't easily be detected with just a meter: As for the replacement ECU, I'm sure glad I challenged you on that core charge from MSA... Bad that the price was higher than you expected, but good that you learned that before it was too late! Once you have another ECU, buy one (two would be even better) of those NTE247 transistors and I'll be happy to install them for you and make sure all six outputs are working. In the meantime... Get welding on that metal work!!

Yup. Measurement technique error. Measuring 12V between C and E makes perfect sense. I was figuring it was something like that. Zed, Both transistors bases are driven from the same source and I highly doubt there is a problem with that base drive circuitry. My guess is that the output transistor went belly up open circuit.

Haha! My pleasure. I'm just glad someone picked up the movie reference and doesn't think I've got an Anal Intruder here at the house. I think that movie was underappreciated. She who's bosoms defy gravity...

Took a look at the prospect of a ground fault taking out three injectors. It is possible, but very unlikely. And the fault would have to be inside the ECU itself, not a harness issue.

Hi marks Zed. The "B" leg is the actuator signal The "C" leg is connected to the injectors. Three injectors connected to each C. The "E" leg should be tied hard to ground. The voltage readings you got with the same voltage on both the C and E legs doesn't make sense, but I suspect it's a measurement method issue. Or maybe there's an intermittent ground issue. I don't remember the details of the ground scheme, but depending on how they actually did it, you might be able to drop three injectors with a carefully placed ground fault. I'll dig into that a little more when I get a chance. Just be very careful poking around in there with power on. One slip and you can let the smoke out. Nicholas, I'm about a half hour from you in the burbs. Send me a PM and we'll chat.

Have you tried one of these?