cgsheen1

Did you get the rest of it out? Or waiting... I'm with Patcon - see if you can find another hinge.

Seriously? It was totally obvious (Captain) that the back half of the cam wasn't turning! Three seconds in I was shouting "WHAT??" I have never seen that...

5th gear in the early 5-speeds is definitely an overdrive gear - for lowering RPM and getting better fuel economy at cruise. Spirited driving (and probably top speed) will be done in the lower 4 gears. Sounds like your differential will be stock which would be a 3.36 R180. My 260Z came equipped with the same differential and I used it for years behind my L28ET and ZX close ratio 5-speed before swapping to a 3.54 R200. The L-series engines used in the 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, and 280ZX (1970-1983) had a similar block config and any transmission mounted to one can be mounted to any other.

If you follow the wiring path from the circuit diagram: 20amp fuse -> GY hazard (6) -> hazard (7) GY -> brake light switch -> GY turn signal switch -> WR AND WB -> (harness that runs under dash & connects to body harness near glove box, runs down right side of car to rear -> GB AND GR at taillights. If you disconnect both GY from brake switch, ONE them should have constant battery voltage. The other should not. IF neither have battery voltage, problem is in the flasher switch. IF voltage is present on one, connect them together and check for voltage on GY at turn signal switch. IF voltage, check for voltage on both WB and WR on turn signal switch. IF no voltage, turn signal switch is bad. IF voltage, check the connectors between the dash harness and the body harness near the glove box then go to rear of car and check harness and connectors to tail lights.

Yup, worst place to have damage on a hood. I've banged a few of them out from behind but never in that location or that bad of a crease...

By far.

Oh my, I thought everyone already knew of this upgrade! One of the best things I ever did to my Z (Especially here in AZ when you need the A/C!!!) - how many years ago was that... edit: Wow... 2011... https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49583-rebuilding-the-heater-and-vent-mechanicals/page/2/?tab=comments#comment-938998 I'm glad people keep bringing this back, the Kia blower really does move a lot of air. The ducting design is so poor in the S30 that the blower really has to use brute force to overcome the design problems. You also need to make sure all of your seals are tight on the boxes and ductwork or you'll lose most of the increase behind the dash.

Me too. Arizona car - no rust.

Here in Arizona too... Wet winter. My allergies are killing me ATM.

Jeff, The rear wheel studs are longer than the fronts. Replace the fronts with the longer rears (order a new set of rears to use in the front). Here, people also use the wheel studs from the Nissan Quest - they are longer and have a knurl that fits. I'm sure there are also any number of threads with info on how people have gotten their wheels to fit here, and on HybridZ...

You've got the proper block color! Way to go...

'74-'76 are all the same.

The '75-'76 have a steel ring inside that's covered with - well, what you saw in the picture above. They don't last here in Arizona. They start crumbling and de-laminate from the core so the covering then twists on the steel ring below.

It's a LHD Z... At 3:32 there's a good shot of the rear - clean rear pan but the piston holes are still showing. Might be an early US 260Z converted to JDM or Euro bumpers - the front end is 240/early 260 style but that could have been changed. The rear pan looks like mine though (empty piston holes and all...).

Wow... I'm really outnumbered here. The L28ET is an incredibly stout and reliable engine. At $400 it's an absolute steal! (at $500 it's an absolute steal...) I wish I were in a location that I could pick it up! You don't actually need to do anything to it to get cheap reliable power. If the cam looks good and the engine is relatively clean you're set. The turbocharger is NOT scary - run stock, they last nearly forever. From the factory they run about 7 pounds of boost and at that setting they'll run forever. (most people forget that turbochargers were originally built for aircraft - an avocation where they have to be as simple as possible and extremely reliable...) Run stock, you can drop the engine in with little fuss and you'll have a strong dependable power plant. The stock ECCS engine management system works very well - as long as you keep the engine stock. If you modify, you'll probably have to look at a tunable engine management system. It'll take a bunch of $$$ to craft an N/A engine to come close. The L28ET is cheap power... Also remember that 80% of the L28ET's were mated to an automatic transmission The weak spot: You'll need to focus on the engine (ECCS) harness. BUT, you'd have to do the same with ANY early EFI engine harness! They just weren't built to last this long. Most of the problems are due to oxidized wire and connectors that will skew the information the ECU needs to run the engine properly. A new harness makes a world of difference - that's what NewZed has seen me comment (complain / warn) about. Now... The problem with a turbo engine is it turns many people into boost junkies. That's where the charge pipe, intercooler, blow off valve, bigger injectors, fuel rail, adjustable FPR, bigger fuel pump, new fully tunable engine management system, coil-on-plug, wideband, blah, blah, blah comes from. That's also where you see guys blowing turbos, melting pistons - because they don't know what they're doing. I daily drive mine. Have for the last 9 years.

My son chides me for not using a sanding block at times (uneven pressure when you're using your hand - it's not flat...). I like to start by hand - I can feel debris that will scratch more than the 1500 or 2000 grit under the paper that way. When I feel debris I immediately wash it away from the paint and paper. Once I've gone over by hand I start using a block for flatness (then I usually give it another quick once over by hand... OCD). I cringe a little when I see machine cutting. Every time I've tried that I end up with deeper scratches than I want and I believe it's because debris gets caught in the grit - but you'll have no way of knowing it until you're buffing.

We just use our buffing compound and orbital buffer with a foam pad for plastic lenses. No prep and they polish right up... For rubber, vinyl, and plastic - Mequiar's Hyper Dressing.

We had a 1975 280Z "Museum Car" in the shop for a few weeks a few years ago (4500 original miles, then kept in an auto museum in PA - shipped from the museum to our shop...). The color was actually much lighter than I thought the original color would be (it shows a tad darker in these pics than IRL- the top of the license plate light actually shows the color best - that's not merely "light flare"). Here are some crappy pics I took of it:

When the grommet is still black it's a lot easier to see. :) Who made that harness for you Q?

I had to look at that link - I was sitting in the auction hall when the '76 2+2 was on the block. I also had a chance to see it on the paddock before it went in. The engine bay that I saw today looked nothing like the pictures on the site - it was, well, less cared for... The car ran quite poorly - just as I've seen with other stock early EFI Z's that haven't been gone through. The interior was complete and quite nice, as was the paint. The final bid was $40,000. We also saw the Orange 1973 on the block just a few cars before the 2+2 and were quite amazed at the $37,000 final bid... It was a nice example of a '73 with original engine (with SU's). The interior and exterior looked much better than the engine bay. The hatch glass had vertical defogger lines. Radio was not original IIRC. An Auto Transmission car like the 2+2... Personally I was surprised by the two Z's I saw at auction today.

We came upon a well preserved part that we took to a local paint supplier and had them match the color. We ended up with a quart can (from which we've done probably 5 blocks over the years and still have more than half) and eventually a couple of spray cans they made using that formula. We discovered that it's much easier to brush on than spray the block itself... Easier to spray the brackets and pulleys. We also learned from the 1975 Museum car we had in the shop that if you're going for authentic factory look when spraying, you have to overspray the bottom of the head about an inch or so...

Poop brown? (Sorry, Poop Brown Metallic...) That's my car's original color. Guess there were a lot of those...

No, the needle sits at the center point without voltage or current. I have one in my hand (and I'm not sitting in a Z...).

No. I think you need to adjust the forward channel - the vertical channel that the nose of the window travels in at the front part of the door. That's assuming that you've already cleaned and re-lubed it (and all your other channels). You might also check the nylon guide at the nose of the window frame to make sure it's not cracked or broken and is still properly attached. If the window doesn't stay level while you're rolling it up (tilts forward or tilts backward), that's the small channel near the rear of the door. The FSM shows how to properly adjust. The trick is to get both of those channels adjusted in the correct position so that the window moves smoothly and stays level as it moves up and down...

Oh, I wouldn't use tar to plug off that water port to the carbs... ? ? (How much tar can you get for a "Ha'penny"? - wait, where can you get a Ha'penny...) And it's probably BPT but over here, we just stuff an American NPT plug in holes like that.