cgsheen1

Just a note: If you sandblast, you will always have sand - somewhere - always. And you can blow and clean and blow and clean and suck and clean and when you shoot paint in there there will be sand in the paint. Not the biggest deal since it's the engine bay but don't yell at your painter because "he got nibs in your paint!"... Better way to strip the paint? They ALL have their drawbacks - choose the one you can live with. Soda maybe - it'll dissolve with water - but probably won't do the best job.

You can also find all of the Datsun Factory Service Manuals at Nicoclub.com. https://www.nicoclub.com/datsun-service-manuals

Oil pans are stout and hold no pressure - except the weight of the oil. Does it have a hole in it? Clean it up and repaint it.

Did the seller include any information or video in a sustained cruising mode? That's the only time the ECU will attempt "closed loop mode" and that's a very specific engine load and rpm range. Basically only when you cruising in a pretty constant speed (RPM) and throttle position. That's the only time the O2 sensor is ever polled. I don't actually know what the EFI ECU will do with no O2 signal or response but I assume that it would have a mode of operation if it was expecting and not getting a signal. Pretty sure the ECCS system that the Turbo engine uses just ignores a bad or missing O2 sensor and uses it's base map. (when "closed loop" is active in the ECCS system, the ECU constantly adjusts fuel flow (injector pulse) up and down and reads the sensor which produces a higher volt signal (at or near 1 volt) when the mixture is rich and a low voltage when lean. when it sees the rich voltage, it leans the mixture slightly than starts raising the fuel flow until it gets the rich signal again. It does this pretty fast - several times a minute and constantly during closed loop - the O2 sensor is ignored otherwise)

I haven't seen many except for the plastic part that holds the brass arm for the horn and the "shuttle" piece for the turn signal switch. Oh, the very small detents used in the twist motion switches. I don't think thingaverse, but there's another site that searches 3d print sites - i just can't remember the name. Pretty disappointed with the print offerings for Z's actually...

Super common issue. If you look at the switch separately (separated from the assembly) you'll notice that it will move solidly in both directions and kind of snap into position at it's extremes. When attached to the assembly, you'll notice that the switch itself doesn't and can't move to it's maximum travel in either direction. But it generally does travel far enough to make the "tetter totter" inside to fall and make the circuit both ways. Except when it gets gummed up AND/OR worn. If you look close once it's cleaned up, you'll probably see a lot of "slop" in the components that engage, slide, and interact with that little nubbin that pokes out of the switch. That little plastic shuttle the lever uses to move the switch wears much faster than the metal parts. In the right turn position, the assembly is also fighting gravity so at some point wear and grunge will cause it to lose. I repaired mine several times before I had to abandon it. Finally I found one on ebay that served me well for 4 or 5 years before it started to get flakey. Than I replaced the switch with a toggle like I saw someone else do. I should say that I've daily driven my 260Z for most of the time I've had it which puts a lot of use on the turn signals...

They used the same clip for a bunch of vehicles for a bunch of years...

I had to bend mine - but, ya, it's stout. Good thing I still had my TurboTorch at the time. (and I thought he DID have a ZX transmission...)

Best of luck with your problem, hope you get it sorted one day.

They are MUCH thicker. The stock ones are pretty thin (and not copper or bronze). I used to have a bag of the correct clips but I doubt that I still do. If I can find a spare in my bag, I'll post a picture. from carpartsmanual.com: (maybe still available from Nissan??) SPRING-RETAINING HAN 54229-0201P

Switch. Pull the connector off the stock switch, plug it into the spare switch, use a flatblade to turn the switch.

Do you have a working choke lever? In the "stumbling" situation have you ever tried adding a bit of choke? The choke on the SU carbs will enrichen the fuel mixture. Your plugs don't look like they suffer from an excessively rich condition. In my opinion you're overly focused on coolant temperature and that damn gauge... Does your mechanic know how to set the initial needle position for ambient temperature and altitude on the carbs? (there are knobs on the bottom of each carb that control initial needle height) Or how to balance (synchronize) SU carbs? It's all in the Factory Service Manual.

What is your idle AFR (hot) ?

I bought mine from Newark. It's an excellent set and I highly recommend it. I bought the loop pile - like stock. I bought the kit with the carpet for trans tunnel and rockers. I like the small diamond vinyl used in the 260 so I didn't use the tunnel carpet - yet. I did use the rocker carpet and like it a lot rather than the original vinyl. Mine is an early 260 so it has similarities with the late 240's and the changes that were being made to morph into the 280. The Newark kit fits well and is very well made.

If it were me, I'd pull out that coolant sensor (still attached to the wire), heat it to 185 degrees exactly and then look at the Temp Gauge and see if it was right on the middle mark.

Sorry, I meant: (for a head shop - if you're talking cylinder, not... (I'm a child of the 60's)) Automotive Machine of Scottsdale 3011 N 73rd St, Scottsdale, AZ Just north of Thomas, east of Scottsdale road - kinda weird to get to but Google maps lady knows...

Scottsdale Machine?

And I thought they were near unobtainium! Ridiculously good price! Take good care of her, congrats, and welcome to the club!

You do you. I'll keep using the two piece model my L28ET used originally. I did have to replace it a few years ago.

Well, duh. That's the wrong sensor. The original is two-part. The sensor part has a bevel that seals against a bevel on the aluminum t-stat housing (look just past the female threads in the housing in the last picture). It's that "nut" (that may be now fused to the original sensor) that screws in, makes the sensor tight against the housing. The sensor itself is just supposed to slip into the hole. The "new" one you tried to install - A: is too long and B: has an o-ring seal that the t-stat housing (in that spot) is not designed for... The lates have a plethora of sensors and switches for the t-stat housing and most parts stores don't clearly differentiate. That hole is for the COOLANT GAUGE SENSOR and needs the two-part "coolant sensor (also sometimes listed as a "switch" for some unknown reason) FOR GAUGE". I also see that many of those are sold as the sensor only - as you can use nut over and over - if you're careful. The nut never sees coolant if the sensor is sealed properly. If not (and/or over the years) the nut can be corrosion sealed to the sensor body making you think it's just one part. It's not. In the first picture, the original parts do look fused - but if you take some time you can free the "nut" from the sensor body and see the part you actually need to be buying: This pic is from the O'Reilly First Call website and it's the sensor only - use your old nut... Of course it's not available, but the picture is nice. (In the early EFI, there also exists (coolant) sensor and ("thermotime") switch for the EFI. The sensor you're dealing with has nothing to do with EFI. It's a thermistor that runs the coolant gauge in the cockpit)

That's the louver I have. I'll try to get some pics tomorrow maybe. Mine are aluminum.

No, but interesting thought, right? That was an awesome video of that factory with the Z body parts being stamped and the AE86...

Tell me about it...

Bring it by one morning and let's see what we can do.

Randy, if you only unbolted the hood and didn't touch the hinge attachment to the body: loosen the 4 hood bolts just enough to get some movement and push the top of the hood as far forward as you can - as you retighten. It's a bit of a dance to do this and keep the other alignments correct - that's why I only loosen the bolts slightly and not enough that the hood "falls" or moves on it's own. I've done this with many hoods and it should put the nose down to where it was before. I can do it in minutes and I've done it on Goldie more than I can count. (essentially you're moving the bottom bolts as far to the rear as they'll go and the upper bolts as far forward as they will go in the hinge slots given their up/down position in the hinge (which you don't want to change (as much as possible))) If then you can push the front down when the hood is closed and it stays where you push it, it's slop in the hinges which is extremely typical. Some of that might be mitigated by altering the hinge-to-body alignment (3 bolts each side) but that opens another can of worms - similar to removing the door hinges OR hatch hinges FROM THE BODY - only not quite as bad... To do all that you'll want the grill and bumper off and out of the way cuz it'll be a process... We found that panel alignment in Z cars is "most visually pleasing" rather than exact measurement almost all of the time.