Everything posted by Patcon
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Engine rough running - at wits end
@Zed Head Thanks for the chart. It does appear we were just inside spec when I took that pic but it had been over 15.8V for 20 minutes or so before that. We were probably in the low 70s or high 60s F. Maybe some of that is just lack of use. Is the 280z regulator serviceable or adjustable?
- 76 280Z Throttle Body bolt spacing
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Engine rough running - at wits end
I can not locate a regulator I think switching to the frontier alternator would be good just for on the road maintenance issues and parts availability
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Looking for Someone - Salt Lake City Area
Maybe you have a local datsun facebook group that could possibly help
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Engine rough running - at wits end
On another note, if your alternator is still externally regulated, You aught to see if you can source a voltage regulator locally. Both options on rockauto are out of stock. That would be a cheap first shot at the high voltage I might have one laying around somewhere ...
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Engine rough running - at wits end
I understand, but I know some of these devices aren't easily blocked off because of how they're designed. I want to be sure that that method is perfectly executed and does not present an opportunity to internally bypass. I was under the impression that vacuum should be higher than that but that could be a units of measure issue again?
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Restoration of BringaTrailer 240z - HLS30-35883
I love those pictures!! Especially the detailed pictures of the proper bolt head details
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Z's on BAT and other places collection
Not Datsun but an interesting article. I believe we are seeing this in the Datsun market too. I wonder if the peak is actually over for these other marques and possibly over for Datsun too? https://www.zerohedge.com/markets/56-rare-white-porsches-head-auction-while-signs-classic-bubble-bursting-seen-rm-sothebys
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Engine rough running - at wits end
So here is where we're at. I rigged up a temporary fuel tank with a 5 gallon gas can in the hatch. It's only got a gallon or two in it. The car starts and runs ok but here is the fuel pressure while warming up and the the vacuum gauge that is plumbed in before the brake booster check valve It was my understanding that the vacuum to fuel pressure reduction should be 1:1?? we are seeing more like 1:2. Should this fuel pressure be 21-22Psi with 15... Never mind, I think I figured it out. His vacuum gauge is not reading Psi!!! It's reading Hg. 0.5 bar is about 7psi. We had a static fuel pressure of about 35 psi in the start position with the solenoid disconnected. So that looks pretty good from that standpoint. Which is good and bad. It seems our fuel pressure is regulating properly but our vacuum seems really low. Best places to start? I know he has block off the EGR. How do I verify that it is actually properly blocked? Also @SteveJ Battery is August 2022 At idle Just after shut off. Where to start??
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1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build
Thanks Kats I assure you, your English is far superior to my Japanese! 😁
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[2023] What Did You Do To/with Your Z Today?
I'm torn on whether to drive the fuel lower or dilute it. I think I would add some premium to what you have. Maybe 1:1 or so. That way maybe you could make some longer trips. How are the hydraulics?
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Caswell Plating
I don't know enough about 3d printing to know how well that would work as a solution
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Mukuni carb intake flange spacer
@nix240z Insulators might make another good offering?
- Bad air flow meter??
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Small rust thru spots on drivers side floor 72z
I have found when the metal is as heavily pitted as that is, there will be more holes when you get rid of all the rust. I would get it really clean and then make some small metal patches that took care of most of the really thin areas
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Mukuni carb intake flange spacer
What were your solutions?
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1973 Rebuild
Can you mark up one of your pictures to elaborate on your changes if you were to do over?
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Mukuni carb intake flange spacer
You could contact these guys https://www.dellortoshop.com/contents/en-us/d624_Mikuni_PHH_Carburetor_Parts.html Or http://www.mikunipower.com/phh01.htm Or Wolfcreek, I'm not sure of their current status after the previous owners passing (??) https://www.wolfcreekracing.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=33&Itemid=23 I think I would start at Wolfcreek ...
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Z's on BAT and other places collection
I think the $3770 offer was the best it's gonna do. I would probably contact that bidder and see if I could work something out...
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1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build
I have a question. Is there a way to identify a factory Nissan windshield gasket? I have a used gasket thats still pretty pliable. I would clean it up and use it if I knew it was a Nissan part. Otherwise, I will buy a clean new one...
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1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build
I also sprayed the rear tail light panels with clear matte today per Jim A's recipe. I worked on the trim for those panels also. I removed it to make it easier to paint them and polish the trim. We will see how hard they are to get back on. An interesting note, these piece are carbon steel and must be plated. They are magnetic. I was surprised they weren't stainless! I also got the last vent line at the tank worked out by lining it with a spring. I then got the tank straps installed and the filler neck all setup. If I could have found all the clamps I needed I would have gotten the vapor tank all taken care of too
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1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build
I have been pulling some larger items together for plating. I have 3 pairs of headlights and thought I would post up some observations on the factory parts The buckets themselves look like they are probably all the same stamping. They clock them 180d out to make L and R side buckets. Then the spring tab gets added, which covers the R or L stamping location The headlights buckets have the exact same part numbers no matter L or R The lamp rings are made for either the left or right side
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Caswell Plating
@grannyknot I do still plate some items, but I have some larger items that I can't plate. My tanks aren't large enough and my power supply isn't large enough. I am still unsure that my at home plating is a durable as professional plating. I sometimes have Caswell pieces that develop "white rust". I am unsure if that is a problem with my method or just the limitations of the safer chemicals. So I am going to send them out and I will get a charge for a whole rack, so I am trying to pull some things together to fill the rack up. I might use a little heat and try to get the plastic pieces out of the buckets.
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Rear Brakes Locked Up
I will provide the new spring hat...
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Bad air flow meter??
Also many inspection sites have photos of what a stock engine bay should look like. If you went after market EFI you would probably have to preserve the factory look...
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