Patcon

That's a great find! Congrats

Then I don't know right off hand. There must be an adjustment somewhere The single roller just really keeps the glass from tipping out. If it doesn't come up level then the roller guides need to be adjusted to change the tilt of the glass as it rises. The trick is getting it adjusted but not binding

No, not until gundee recommends that! Clean the plugs and drive the car...

Reman's are a very hit or miss proposition these days!

I suspect that vintage cooler is built as well as anything you could buy today. It's probably repairable and I'm sure it can be cleaned out

Don't change two things at a time!!! Make the change Gundee suggested and drive the car! Only one change at a time. Always!

The directions for the module will specify what coil to run. Does the pertronix in the dizzy have a model number on it?

The fact it worked for two weeks makes me think seating isn't the issue

Just trying to isolate the problem. If it spins, it's in the speedo. If it doesn't, it's a broken cable, damaged gear or a sheared pin

Yes, you could disconnect if from the speedo and see if it spins when the car moves.

I rebuilt the rack in my Lily thread. I don't know what page it is. There may be some info in there too.

Plenty of coils could work and start the car but you want the hottest coil you can run that will work with your distributor and ignition!! The hotter the coil is; the less fouling you will have!!!

I think he's Implying he might not be all there! 😂

Yup, paint can hide a lot of sins!

Show some detailed pictures of the wiring connections at the coil and ballast resistor

Thats a great connection to make!!

Good looking car, welcome

I think those numbers are fine. Not stellar but pretty even

If thats the "Porterfield" they're very well known

I am thinking of the single roller that snaps over the weld flange at the top of the door on the outside edge of the window slot. It helps keep the glass from tipping out like this: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiL5dOcwIqCAxW7IUQIHe0tDTUQFnoECA4QAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fzcardepot.com%2Fproducts%2Fwindow-glass-roller-bumper-guide-240z-260z-280z&usg=AOvVaw26J0DVuFr-nNenUUkUe5NR&opi=89978449

is the roller inside the door just below the window chrome trim?

Have you considered contacting a shop that rebuilds differentials and see if you can source the shims through them?

He is what I think I would do: I love the idea of shipping the carbs and intake states side and have them fully sorted and tuned! Maybe somebody like Zcargarage. preferably using a wideband to tune them. They come back ready to bolt on. That will eliminate fueling as a possibility once and for all. That shouldn't be cost prohibitive Secondly I would ditch the pertronix and the coil! Either buy a 280zx match box dizzy (would be used so might be worn out) and a new coil or ideally buy a 123 dizzy and the appropriate coil. This would be an upgrade from what you have and is also more tunable if needed. Run that for a little while. If the problem's solved then great; if not I would probably pull the engine and re-ring it and go through the head provided the cross hatching looks good. Edit: One of the few things we haven't touched in this whole episode is the Pertronix

Since its in a stamped portion of the firewall I'm guessing it was an addition from a PO

Do you have a source for the clutches? If you do then rebuilding is an option. I didn't go that route. I installed the CLSD I have. I will run it and see how it performs first. Then rebuild it if necessary.