Patcon

My wife is top notch! She didn't complain at all. I've even had to train my wife not to shop for Datsuns! 🤣

It is supposed to be fastened in the bottom of the door but I don't know exactly where

Worked on some glass today too Rear hatch decals @cgsheen1 Do you recognize these? Rear hatch etching Windshield etching. No tint strip Stripped the metal brackets off the door glass. I am going to send a load to the platers There are small white plastic washer sunder the bolts and washers to prevent over tightening to the glass I believe this is an anti theft device. The drivers door is off a later car and is much heavier than the passenger door I cut up an old rusty hatch. Here is what the layup looks like across the top of the hatch When I sound proofed the inside of the car I was careful enough and I got stuff all over the tool compartment tab rubber. So I scraped them back down and brushed some black plasti-dip on them. I also did that to the wire loom tabs along the floor boards, at the fuel tank and the tail light panel. I will get new tab covers for the ones in the engine bay

I got the new fuel tank sender in. It was about $15 total, which I thought was pretty cheap. Matches really well and the resistance seems to be pretty close New O ring Sender set and indexed I had 2 O rings to choose from. I used the one I had from Zcardepot versus the one that came with the sender. The one from Zcardepot fit perfect. The other one was on the small side

Here are some of the tags off the original vent lines

So I have been scheming on how to mold this vent line. So I ordered a screen door spring. Although, I could have picked one up at Home depot for a little less. Then I stretched it out Here is the original hose Then I put the spring in and added a thick piece of solid copper and formed it up Baked it in the oven at 325F for about ten minutes, while my wife was away of course! It sort of held it's shape but not entirely. So, I tried again. 400F for 12 minutes. That smoked up the place pretty good!! It held it's shape better but I still ended up putting a piece of spring inside the line to prevent crushing even though I probably didn't need to. All in all, it's probably just as cheap to buy the molded hose from a vendor when you look at what it costs to buy plain hose in the first place. Then figure in an hour of your time and a spring, etc.

2000 hours of prep is a lot! Figuring a cheap $50 an hour, adds $10k to the paint job. As long as the shading all matches, I would have preferred that they paint it the way they did. It's not factory exact, but not everything the factory did was the highest standard. It was done for production and these were cheap cars. They're not cheap cars anymore... It looks fabulous!!

That's a big difference !

What did you use for an adhesive?

My concern would also be getting the shaft out of the aluminum. Going to be hard to use any force without breaking the aluminum. I think I would just cut the shaft and add metal in between the halves with the welder. That seems like the path of least resistance to me. Probably quickest too.

Thanks anyway, I don't need the exact code. It was nice and glossy like single stage. I thought it might be. Didn't look like rattle can

What black paint are you using? Rattle can? 2k?

It's $12. Buy a set and try it. Maybe it works, maybe it doesn't. Its a cheap option

Use an extractor and a adjustable wrench. Use a mirror or the selfie options on your phone to get a good look at it. Put the extractor in the hole and turn it to the left, ccw. If you can't get a 2" extractor in it because of access, it's gonna be really hard to weld a nut on whats left. What happens when that red hot blob or weld comes in contact with the oil in the engine? What happens when you get solvent or water in the engine trying to get it clean?

Stock with the vise grips! The tapered extractor is the first thing to try. The less you tear it up, the better. If it will start at all it will pull itself into the hole as you turn it. I would not attempt to weld down there in all that oil. It's not going to stick anyway Harbor freight has a set $12. Do not snap the extractor off in the remnants of the pressure gauge!!!

If the valve train got hot due to low lubrication, you would probably lose all the lash. Double check it stone cold

So got the glass down out of the shop ceiling today. Its been above the spray booth since about 2010. Unfortunately the windshield was broken in two places. 😞 I had it stored on two 2x4s with the curve turned up . Concave side down. The inner sheet of glass broke on both sides just out side the 2x4s. I guess the weight of that inner sheet broke itself Thankfully I have a spare. Hopefully it will clean up

Yes, perfect Thanks

@SteveJ The six pin shells are available at vintage connections? Can I buy them separately; not in a kit?

Has anyone heard from Jim Daniels (Zup) or Jim Smirlies (S30driver?)? I PM'd them a few days again and texted Jim Daniels today. They haven't been on the forum in over a year! I wanted to be sure my favorite Jim's were ok! C

I actually printed that picture today to use as a guide in the shop! :)

@SteveJ Thanks for looking around. I found some at Pelican parts and have it coming this way. On another note, I pulled out some wiper assemblies. Is it possible to jumper out the plug and make sure the wiper motor works before I put it in the car?

If the bleed screws on the calipers are on the bottom, you will never get good brake pressure!

That's good. I have an account with them so I can get that coming. They are pretty prompt about shipping... Never mind, they are out of stock of the 8mm and 10mm braided

Working on the fuel and vent tanks some more. I believe my fuel sender is bad so I ordered a cheap one off Ebay. We'll see how it looks. I bought a bunch of braided hose for the vent system but I let Cody use some of it for his car and now I don't appear to have enough. Trying to sort that out Where does the upper port on the left hand side (maybe 8mm hose) of the vapor tank go?? Does it just go through the floor and vent to the outside? Or does it connect to the vent line that goes to the front of the car? I think I know where the other lines go. I am looking for springs to work on the one molded hose. I may try to heat that in the oven to thermoset it... On the diagrams I have seen it seems to go through the floor and vent but if it connects to the vapor line to front of the car, it isn't shown right...