Patcon

Big panels like that are easy with paint stripper. don't know if you can get it but "Aircraft stripper" works really good. You would have been done in a couple of hours...

Nice and shiny, love it. What color Red is that?

I would run the 5-50. Still reasonably pourable at low temperatures but still has lots of protection when it warms up...I would have no concerns about running that here in the Southern US and our avg temperatures are much higher than yours

I am not sure that the warning switch will actually close off the bad half of the system. I do wonder why he lost both circuits. My first thought which he confirmed is that his system is not stock, but you would still think half of the system would work if only marginally...

That's a pretty heavy oil. In your part of the world I would think you would want something a whole lot lighter

Worked on rebuilding a 510 hood, 2 fenders and a splash pan. worked on getting my suspension black the right sheen...

The roof is one of those panels that can be hard to get smooth and looking good. If you apply too much pressure the metal flexes and the material doesn't sand off evenly. I have found that using a little more aggressive paper and fairly soft pressure works good. Just have to be patient and keep blocking until it's right. The lower doors skins, the flats on the hood and especially the lower part of the hatch are the same way

Looks beautiful, as always...

That is still a good price for a driver Z that needs some rust repair with 128k

I don't understand! You want the car pristine and painted correctly but you don't want to pull the engine to paint the engine bay! Then when one (jfa.series1) of the foremost experts on the factory methods tells you they painted them black on the radiator support you question that! If you want it factory, black out the lower radiator support! If you don't want it factory then don't! But don't question whether the information is good when it comes from an original owner that won 1st place last year at Zcon just because some one on Youtube did it different I'm done...

If it was already in the states the title issues could be handled through a title company provided it doesn't come back stolen. Being out of the states I don't know how you would import it if there is a title discrepancy. Maybe store it north of the border (@Blue house) until the title is made good... What kind of dollars are you looking for, give us a starting point. Do you have a title???

I suspect the bid got retracted after the seller clarified the mileage discrepancy

That might do it... Love an easy fix though! Now that you found some energy laying around some where, can I borrow some?

Cliff, I tend to agree with you, several years ago I would have said $2-3k but now a days I see basket case "junkers" bringing that and cars like yours bringing $7-9k. I would say $7k is a reasonable price in todays market, I might even try a little higher $7,800 or so and negotiate from there. The ebay car has lots of great documentation but no pictures of the rear hatch lip or under the battery tray. It has rust in the doglegs, so I would suspect rust in other areas too. Your doors are a little worse off but they are not cost prohibitive. The ebay car is at $15,300 with 2 days to go. In the answered questions he points out the mileage at 128,000... your car is a desirable color with a neat interior, a new coat of paint and some rust repair and it would easily bring mid teens IMO...heres to success

NADA Collector Guides Original MSRP Low Retail Average Retail High Retail Base Price $4,106 $7,925 $18,100 $31,600 TOTAL PRICE: $4,106 $7,925 $18,100 $31,600 Hemmings motor news The avg asking price is: $18,747 The highest is: $69,900 The lowest is: $5,950 Hagerty: #1 $50,500 #2 $32,500 #3 $15,800 vehicles could possess some, but not all of the issues of a #4 vehicle, but they will be balanced by other factors such as a fresh paint job or a new, correct interior where applicable. #3 vehicles drive and run well, but might have some incorrect parts. These vehicles are not used for daily transportation but are ready for a long tour without excuses, and the casual passerby will not find any visual flaws. "Good" is the one word description of a #3 vehicle. #4 $7,100 vehicles are daily drivers, with flaws visible to the naked eye. The chrome might have pitting or scratches, the windshield might be chipped. Paintwork is imperfect, and perhaps the body has a minor dent. Split seams or a cracked dash, where applicable, might be present. No major parts are missing, but the wheels could differ from the originals, or other non- stock additions might be present. A #4 vehicle can also be a deteriorated restoration. "Fair" is the one word that describes a #4 vehicle. Collector Car Market Guide (their numbers seem to be lagging some but the AC add is a good tip) 1972 DATSUN 240Z 6cyl 2393cc (129hp SAE) 4M #5 #4 #3 #2 #1 Coupe 1250 3775 9125 14725 24300 Add: Air conditioning 5% Deduct: Automatic transmission -15%

I don't know. I would have thought your pans would have looked like the 240z pans with the large oval stampings and the drains plugs in the stampings...

To the best of my knowledge sealer was applied after assembly. The sealer would end up between the panels if the gap wasn't very tight

Look for a product called "Goop" I believe. If I am remembering right it is what I used to fixed a leaking seam on a fuel tank. Permanent fix and was constantly exposed to fuel. Drove the truck another 10 years or so with the patch...

What glue are you using? I have done some experiments taking a large dryer clamp and making a circle of the same size and welding it to itself. Grind it smooth and slide it in around the center between the foam and the center. The plastic no longer takes the load...seems to work but haven't had one in a running car so see how secure it makes it.

Maybe a bad Oxygen sensor. I assume the 280zx was running O2 sensors at that time

I think it looks great as is...polish it, protect it and put it on the car. I think the original finish is a distant second to that. It will also be easier to keep clean with the smoother finish

Most of the original horn buttons I see are cracked on the inside, so they don't stay on the wheel well. Did you have to deal with that?

I think you overlooked the mileage. Only one page has mileage and appears to be getting mid 20's to low 30's, that seems pretty good. Very pretty car and in really good condition. On a car like this mileage is the big thing. If it has lots of documentation to verify the mileage even better... NADA collector guides has average retail at $9,200 and high retail at $19,200 so your $13,500 seems more than fair for a really clean low mileage car... I hope you get a good buyer for your car...

The horn button on the wheel that you just sold, was that refurbished or a new item to complete the package?

Ebay or Zeddsaver