Patcon

Dum Dum is the sticky tar-like rope stuff that is sometimes used on cars in situations like this.

These guys have done yeomans work helping you through this! I will chime in now, if it were mine I would let it dry as long as I could before reinstalling the tank. If you can run a fan to move air through the tank, do that too.

Ahhhhhh, Christmas...in August.

and they had a trunk lid! Most delete the trunk entirely...

Thanks Jim The ebay rack doesn't specify 240z. Aren't they all the same 240-280z? Never mind I found the answer in the Hybrid thread

Looks good! Rich, Can you make a better picture of where the cowl drain comes out? I see the panel that fits under the fender. Is that dum dum behind that on the car frame running vertically? Also the cross member bolts only have lock nuts, is that correct? I think the FSM shows redundant washers there too. I wasn't sure if that was correct. Seems a little excessive... I worked on the same stuff this weekend while I was working on getting my plating going again...

When I start tuning some triples I might be able to help lighten your load...

I started on the rack for the yellow car and was just gonna read back through this thread since I book marked it. I remember it being really good. I just wanted to sort of get a feel for what to expect. I can't remember anything specific I need; it was just well documented and nice and technical...

Looks like a starter solenoid

This was such a beautiful thread, I hate Photobucket!!!!

I would think the thing to do is make the new struts the same length over all as the strut that comes out. Make the spacer what ever it needs to be to accomplish this

It is available to go. PM me and we can talk price

I believe I only have one

69,000 miles. Looks like a pretty nice survivor. It's a little expensive but for the shape seems pretty reasonable

I figure with a race car interior then the roof color will have a bigger impact. No headliner, no door panels, nothing but painted metal between you and the great outdoors

My first Z was black and you knew it, even with the windows down. The dark blue will have the same basic effect...

I don't car for Type 4 Type 1 is ok but I believe 2 and 3 would be easier to see when lapping traffic. I also like that 2 and 3 are a little different and they have lighter color roofs so the car will be cooler inside

We have the car parts manuals web pages that show the exploded view of the 510 and the 240z and give the parts numbers. Is there something like this for the 510 SSS? I am looking for some of the carb parts numbers but can't locate a diagram or break down. Thanks, C

Around here we call that "tuition" the cost of learning....

Do you have a European independent mechanic that works on old cars. Most of the high performance European cars from the 60's & 70's had Webers

Have you tried the very subjective "rap on it" test to see if it rings. I did some of that before the Lizard Skin then after. It was noticeably different

The purple box is probably a fuse that was added to deal with the lost fuse location

@Pop's Z Do you have any idea why the other seals failed? Brand, installation, some other anomaly?

Which needles solved your problem, the N54's?

How did you solve it? Did I miss something?