Patcon

It would have been a fun thing to test! ? Oh well, it's ok though, the parts are sold already. It was really a good deal for somebody. Front fenders can go as high as $300 each and the tachometer he had is over $100. Plus all the other parts...

Absolutely!!!! Time and money ahead... The reviews on the Tabco panels are sort of hit or miss, but they are really the only ones available. It sounds like the metal at the step can get over stretched and split when they are stamped. Good to know...

Is that 2 stage?

When I do this I use method #1. Some predrilled or punched holes. Puddle them in, a little grinding, good as new...

I had one once that I couldn't get out. I chained to the nut on the top of the strut with some washers and wrapped a tow strap or chain around the bottom of the strut tube. Come-a-long from the strut to a tree and cranked down on it. I gave up when I was worried I was going to pop the cable. It was a part that I shipped to someone else so I gave up on it. If you don't have trees, heavy trucks or tractors will do. I would try to pull it out first. If that doesn't work then I would try something to break the rust down. like others have said, then pull it again

What was the technique for adjusting the gap? Did he cut it and reweld it or some other technique?

It would be interesting to see pictures of your car to see if your assessment of it being a parts car is correct. These cars get more salvageable every year... I agree with others about this car though. It's done! The problem is you would need a ton of new metal. I suspect a lot of the panels rotted from the inside out due to the salt air. That means when the car gets cleaned up, a bunch of these panels won't be usable. 2 Quarters, inner and outer rockers, roof frame, rear hatch, both complete front rails, inner wheel wells, front strut towers, floor pans, 2 doors. Almost nothing would go untouched. Many of these parts would have to come from other donor cars. It doesn't make sense to use so many parts on just this one car when a good donor car could be used to save a bunch of other cars instead of this one. If it was a really low number car I might view that differently, but it's not.

I removed mine and found some appropriately small rivets to replace it after paint. I wouldn't let them clean it up or even keep it! Go remove it yourself or get it from them when they remove it. There are a couple of vendors you can get a new one from but you will need to provide some proof of ownership stuff.

Never mind!! I got lost in Rich's restoration shop

I wonder if I made a good enough impression at our only meeting for that????

That's no fun! The plating does look good though If you scrub on them you will take off the yellow chromate and they will get powdery and dull as the zinc oxidizes There is a plating shop near me that has a minimum charge. They try to work with small retail customers. I would think there is someone near you that does the same kind of thing Frankford Plating or Precision Chrome, maybe

Are you going to check it out? There are some good parts in there but I couldn't get there before the 10th You got any room at the house?

It can. Time and current determines total zinc transfer. I have over plated fasteners before and it can make reassembly difficult.

I love shiny parts!!

Yes, I would say you did more than ok! As perspective, this car is a 72 and is on Copart in Virginia and it is already bid to $1000 plus fees of about 30% with a salvage title! I lost interest when the bid was about $250...

$2800?

Came back as Nissan 310 & F10. These are drilled and I can't image those cars had this large of a rotor. Also none of the images that came up were drilled. Any idea on a way to cross reference what I have?

That looks like fun!

Sometimes I can hold the backer with one hand and weld with the other. Sometimes I have a helper. The Eastwood backers are really interesting. I wonder how malleable they are?

Ok so tinkered with the brakes some more. Really frustrating!!! So the rear calipers won't go on over the rotors I have. The rotors are too large. I am pretty sure I ordered the right ones (82-83 280ZX rears) to work with the 85-86 maxima rear calipers. The ones I have a re 84-85 300ZX rears. I have had them for years so if anyone needs them let me know. They are CTEK 121.42021 drilled On the front the Power stops or Stop Tech ( I can't locate the box) have this number on the edge of the rotor. Doesn't lead any where in Google... The hat height is the wrong height. Here is a stock front disc against the new disc. There is about 0.27" difference in height. That looks like enough to make the calipers work on the front So I ordered some discs today from Rockauto. Fortunately they were on sale. I don't know how to cross reference the front disc to figure out what they actually are

The aluminum and steel drums are both available at MSA. The aluminum ones aren't very cheap though about $130 each versus $43 for the steel ones

Yes it can be. You can always use a piece of copper behind the weld seam to prevent blowing through. I have a couple of pieces of copper tubing hammered flat on one end into different shapes. The copper won't stick to the weld puddle

Lots of pics. AC car. Floors and battery look good. Looks like nice a nice foundation. Spray it and go...

That is a pretty piece!

I am assuming by the user name, it make be a Ferrari rebody "Velo Rossa"