Patcon

I haven't done a whole quarter yet either but I have removed the whole rear end of a car. I think I would handle the quarter much like I would handle a roof skin. I would try to leave as much of the interior metal around the wheel alone as possible. I would probably block the car up on the rockers or frame supports. I might also drop that side of the rear suspension out to make it easy to work and remove weight from pulling on the strut tower. I might may my seam at the factory roof joint but by leaving the interior metal alone. I don't have a weak joint or a complicated welding job to beef it up. A couple of die grinders and an assortment of heads work really well. Like these The round one is my go to for dealing with spot welds when I don't need to same the panel. Bear in mind they make lots of metal splinters (closed shoes and no fleecy clothes) and need a decent amount of air to run. Once you get the existing mangled quarter off make us some more pictures. Also, remember to always leave more metal than you think you need. You can always take a little more off but putting it back is double the work!!!

I followed this thread as it was going along, but I don't remember. Was the reverse gear ever analyzed for suitable replacements or interchange with other transmissions?

I was looking at it on my phone... Worse on the laptop!

I used Eastwood internal frame spray instead of cavity wax. It has a long tube so you can coat the inside of pretty much every frame rail and has a chromate type finish and if it gets on any outside surface, won't interfere with finish paint

I would try to find a pressure washer to borrow and go at it. I bet most of that will wash out

You have the quarter. I would use it. How is your welding? I dont know that I would do it exactly like the factory. I would like to leave the inner structure alone at yhe roof and along the side of the hatch. If the dogleg was good on the donor, I might remove whats there and put all new donor metal You will probably need to work on the wheel wells and maybe even the metal below the antenna. It took a pretty good shot. You could always get the old quarter off and have someone else mount the new one. Weld slow and lots of breaks

I would chain it between two trees with a comealong or chain binder as encouragement

I was gonna say a wide band is a must have tool to dial in webers

There are other ways for moisture to get in. One being condensate Another being really humid parts of the world. I do like the shielding idea

I would think a good quarter would be worth more than a door but both are becoming rare

Jist remember going to the 6AL isn't going to gain you a lot. It will also make you car less stock which makes it harder to diagnose. If I wanted to make power, reworking the ignition would be pretty far down the list. Provided I wasn't running points...

Wall art my butt!! If the quarter is good, its a donor!!

You need to be willing to travel! Use search tempest and search craigslist nationwide. I suspect your budget is too low but who knows. I think your no rust priority is the right one

Pictures might help

Squishy can be a few things Spongie flexible hoses Air in the system Shoes out of adjustment Questionable master cylinder Pedals or firewall flexing Others?

So did someone move data tags to a 280 chassis?

That's really amazing, I assume all hand made...

There's a lot of daylight on that one!! 😳😳😳

Evidently one sold a while back at $2.47m. It was supposedly unique... We'll see

$1.6m w 6 days to go

Tempting...

Heat is your friend! Don't make it any worse. Big breaker bar. I probably wouldnt ever resort to LH drill bits. The problem would be getting whats left out of the case without damaging the soft aluminum. Might weld to it as a last resort. I have used a monkey wrench as a nuclear option in the past but that pretty much destroys the fill plug

Ok, so I have a little nugget for any other wagon owner out there... So this is the factory gas cap. Pretty much unobtanium. The last one I saw a year or two ago in Japan for $350 or so So this is what I'm working with The cap is obviously very visible and it would be nice if It pretty much filled the space. So I was googling around and I found a thread, I think it was on "The Realm" that mentioned a Stant gas cap. A G26...so off to Ebay It fits the filler neck fine and appears to seal Once I had the G26 you can find the vehicles it is supposed to fit. 57'-61' Chrysler, Dodge, DeSoto, Plymouth station wagons. Bingo!!! Then started looking for locking gas caps for those Marques We have a WINNER!! Merry Xmas to Cody... It has that factory applied red paint ring on it. It doesn't match and I may try to strip it off and polish it. We'll see after he gets it...

If I were doing this, I would remove from the rail after the fact. Provided the rail is being trashed. I would grind the rail off the bracket so as not to lose any material off the bracket. Make good dimensions first, of course

Beautiful car. Always one of my favorites! Thats a lot of money though. I wouldn't enjoy driving it with todays distracted drivers. It would be too hard to relax and enjoy the drive