Zed Head

It might just be loose. If you just had a pinhole in a line the metal repair tube that you have now would be what I would do. The line that you have might have a bad flare and that's why it's leaking. The correct way to use a hose would be to put a bubble on the end, like on the transitions from rubber to metal on the factory metal line. Site's idea was good, I'm just saying that all solutions should be done correctly. Kind of depends on your tools I guess, I had flaring tools so I reflared when i was working on my fuel system. I've also used compression fittings, which might actually be what you already have. If so, you can just crank it down to make it tighter. The PO probably couldn't get the leverage on it. Good luck. Here's a typical repair kit with a compression fitting. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NOE7304932?impressionRank=11

Something I've been able to do with brake lines is to detach the line from where it is fastened to the body. Then just flex the whole section out to where you can work on it. I did that in the front so that I could pull the MC without disconnecting it. It looks possible in your case. I see a screw head.

In 79 they went to the more sensible labelled drawings. Odd thing though, they dropped down to 25 - 36 in 79, then in 80 went back to 44.

Probably right. I overlooked #4. Sorry about that. The nut actually attaches the bushing sleeve and washers to the rod and the rod to the body. Not the transverse link. That's what got me. Still seems like a high value for a fine (higher leverage) thread pitch. But it is an important piece. They carried the weird words all the way through 1978.

Never mind. Nissan's odd writing got me.

Edit - I found them, thought they weren't there. Hard to find, I had to search for the word to get the drawing number then look at the drawing again. One of the 5 speed balls has (1/4) after it, don't know what that means. Glad I'm not rebuilding any transmissions. Edit again - I notice that ball #66 has a different part number. Any chance you put a small ball where a big ball should go? https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/transmission-gears

Seems like they just want to make sure the "washer" (l'd call it a spacer) spins with the shaft. Edit - obviously. Might be that any dimensional differences across the "washer" could cause some weirdness if it moved. Funny, but the 5 speed has more of those balls than the 4 speed even though, supposedly, the 5 speed is just a 4 speed with an extra gear. Actually, a lot more differences than I thought. Edit - looks like 4 speed shafts might not work for 5 speeds and vice-versa. The washer you're looking at is 21?

I have the wiring diagram for one of these. It has about eight positions. I don't know much about them except that the wiper motor must be getting a lot of amps on high speed based on how fast the blades move.. They're fast. Actually the ancient Z motor and mechanism would probably hold you back on upgrading the system. Are you going to design a simple harness to make it plug and play? Looks like fun. https://www.ebay.com/itm/265485270180?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=pCKhnAvpQCe&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Actually, since it's open, some Scotchbrite, gasoline, and a rag will let you take the critical measurements. I thought you were just going to break it down in a garage and run a ball hone through it. Why pay to get it hot-tanked if it's not what you want? You'll be removing that protective film of oil and grime for when you put it in the back yard for storage.

Measurements after a hone should tell you something. Does your friend have the tools to do proper measurements?

If it was my project I would put a list of parts needed together, with costs. Add them all up and compare to what a good used engine will cost. Evaluate against what your goals are. I put a short list together of the various parts I bought for my car when I was getting it back in to shape and the final number was pretty big. The small stuff adds up quick. Here's the basic engine that you are starting with, for comparison. https://www.ebay.com/itm/145108452163?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=743dF1EpST6&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Similar conversations have happened over the last few years. You better check parts availability before going too far. Oversize pistons are not readily available. You could end up with a freshly machined block but no parts to put in it. Your engine will sit at a machine shop in out-of-stock parts jail, with a big bill waiting. I see what looks like rust pitting in addition to scoring. Looks like an expensive starting point. Probably better off to find a different used engine. They still pop up here and there. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1978,280z,2.8l+l6,1209260,engine

Here's a clue about the quality of the typical reman alternator. Some of the repair parts cost more than a whole reman. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=45765&cc=1209260&pt=4884&jsn=394

Also, never really noticed it before, but Nissan put a nice description of the regulator in the FSM. They even supplied a circuit schematic. It's not my field but still pretty cool to ponder.

Did O'Reilly's test the alternators before replacing, or did they just swap them without testing? Adding on to CO's point - maybe you have an intermittent connection that is actually damaging the alternators. The alternators really are bad but it's your car that broke them. They're already weak because the reman shops keep the old parts that still function. I think that the S wire might be connected to the WR fusible link wire by one of those metal butt connector splices buried in the harness. The ones that look like a PO's hack job. Might be worthwhile to peel the harness open and check it out. My 76 harness had a bunch of melty fused wires buried in it from some previous catastrophe.

Here's a source showing it on the rod side. They don't show one on the nut side though. https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/front-suspension

I forgot the other advice often offered - take the bad OReilly unit to a shop that rebuilds alternators. See what they can do. Or, break out the soldering tools and replace the regulator. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1980,280zx,2.8l+l6,1209316,electrical,voltage+regulator,4884

Autozone's Duralast has the same part number as that new WAI Rockauto unit. https://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/alternator/p/duralast-gold-alternator-14592n/740842_0_0 https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1980,280zx,2.8l+l6,1209316,electrical,alternator+/+generator,2412 Has a limited lifetime warranty. About $106 after shipping from RA. About $149 from Autozone. $43 from peace of mind knowing that Autozone is close by. I'd probably go to a salvage yard and look for a Frontier or Xterra. Just for fun.

Odd that new units for the Frontier cost less than reman. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,2001,frontier,2.4l+l4+dohc,1374500,electrical,alternator+/+generator,2412

Remy seems to make good stuff. They make new alternators for some brands, I have a new (not reman'ed) Remy Gold on my vehicle, a 2003 Ford. It's been good for 35,000 miles, and I got it used from a salvage yard. Looks like only reman for your application though. But, if I was going to buy one I'd buy Remy. Check the other mainstream stores, maybe Napa or Autozone carry the brand. I had an OReilly Ultima on my Z and it failed. I got the warranty'ed replacement, put it on the shelf and installed a salvage yard 280ZX alternator. Those O'Reilly alternators tend to be junk. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1980,280zx,2.8l+l6,1209316,electrical,alternator+/+generator,2412 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=37579&cc=1209316&pt=2412&jsn=383

Here's a shot of a crusty old, that looks original, 76 compression rod end. Picture 187. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1976-datsun-280z-59/

More from later.

Something different.

The display auction ends today, in about 2 hours, 40 minutes. One very early bid. Looks like some sort of odd attempt to generate interest in a bunch of scrap parts. E88 head on an F54 block. It doesn't even have value as a display engine. I bet that the bidder gets paid back by the seller and they both agree that it didn't work. Might also just be an advertisement for the shop. Using BaT for advertising. They got used, I think.