Zed Head

Anybody noticed that the TheZtore.com, aka zcarparts.com, aka MotorsportAuto.com, changed their web site. It's kind of odd, like they had an IT guy who doesn't really know old cars go through it during the "upgrade". Some of the phrases are strange and searching for normal words does not work. I searched for "throwout bearing" and nothing came up, no products match. Searched for "clutch" and found a page for a "clutch collar", whatever that is. Nobody calls it a clutch collar but there it is. Searched for "clutch collar" and found some parts. The site is different but not so sure it's better. Opportunity missed.

The throwout bearing sleeve looks like this. The bearing presses on to it. https://www.thezstore.com/product/2158/factory-clutch-collar-75-83-z-zx-2-2-82-83-280zx-turbo-84-89-300zx-non-turbo

It's not clear what is in the "kit".

Did it come with a new throwout bearing sleeve (aka collar)? I tried to find the list of parts in the kit but the company has shut down.

Coincidence, I just posted this in the wrong thread. Not trying to jump over your post. Good stuff. Here's a neat one. Has some commentary about lime green color and the "Series's". Has an interesting air dam on the front. The youtuber is Dennis Collins and he's looking for a hub cap, apparently. His cars often end up on BAT or at the big auctions. He does big money cars. Says that they're going to try to get it up to number 2 condition car or number 1, whatever that means.

It's not uncommon. The internet is full of bad reman alternators. The reman shops only replace the parts that don't work, they leave the stuff that's on the edge. I thought that Remy was a good company though.

Wrong thread...

It's a 71 so it doesn't have any sensitive electronics. And 15.1 is in the range of the original external regulator. So probably not, but if it's defective it might fail even farther. Why not put the old external system back together while you wait?

Actually these numbers do look like a bad regulator, IF you are back-probing the S (yellow) wire. But, If the yellow wire is the wire to S and you're unplugging it to take a measurement then you are removing the Sense wire to the regulator. Anyway 15.1 volts is too high for a ZX internally regulated alternator.

Maybe your jumper wires are tied to a flasher circuit somehow. I would take another look at the wires you used the jumpers on. Use a meter and find the one that is always hot. Connect it to S. Find one that is only hot with the key on, connect it to the L terminal. Don't try to use jumpers at the plug, just run a new wire to the alternator terminals.

Another interesting thing about the Z in the ditch is that the video is a rally video. There was a copilot giving instructions about the the course. So, kind of embarrassing that a Z is in the ditch but all of those odd looking other cars stream on by. The copilot gave poor instructions or the driver didn't handle the car well. Also interesting that it went in nose first, not back end first, as far as you can tell. Kind of looks like they just drove right off the edge and in to the ditch. Anyway, another Z makes the new world of Youtube videos. Too bad there's no footage of it driving before it ended up there. Maybe it wasn't actually in the event.

The irony here is extreme.

As RacerX is pointing out you'll need to talk to DMV eventually unless you want to try to cut up the remaining metal and sell it directly to a scrap yard. Your local DMV people will know. Best to just call and talk directly to a real person.

I almost bought a car with no title from a guy in Washington. He wanted to meet me at the DMV where he would show various documents to apply for a "lost" title. Maybe that's what RacerX meant. I declined though, (luckily, since it was a real turd and I found a much better car later) since with a lost title you need to have people attest to the fact that they know that the title was lost and that they can attest to the chain of ownership. If it turns out later that it wasn't then there's a mess that you have to resolve. Like if somebody dragged an old car from a field and sold it then the real owner showed up later. Unfortunately Reptoid there is a real chance that you bought a car that was, in essence, stolen. Probably not, but who knows.

p.s. and just wondering - have you ever raced a car? Or driven it to the edge on a country road? Can't really tell from your posts, they seem more intellectual and related to what seems to be your profession, which seems to be professional photography. No sign that you've done much driving of the extreme type.

Thanks HS30. I posted the picture and the question so that people who know could confirm either way. Good information with an insult added for flavor. As usual.

The front of the car seems too wide, wider than the rear. I looked for other small clues but they might have been modified away. There is no hatch release button visible. Can't see the emblems on the quarter panels. The rear bumper seems too thick and has no rubber "nerf" bumpers on it. It's just a very straight and flat piece of chrome. I've seen other European cars that look similar to the big brands. Just couldn't be 100% on this picture. There's probably a writeup of the even somewhere that has the cars listed. Bummer that the car ended up in the ditch. Doesn't look like that difficult of a turn. You can see the ditch way before you get close.

... mistaken identity Does this not look like Z? But it's off. Not sure what it actually is. 1:17.

When you say rotor do you mean hub? It's attached to the disc but many people think of the rotor as the disc itself. You can buy things called "rotors" that have no hub attached. Just a brake disc that fits over wheel studs. I don't know how they ended up being called rotors. A picture would be good, even one from the FSM. I know that they early 240Z hubs are different from later hubs. Scalloped versus round if I remember right. Not sure about dimensions or caliper fitment.

Grease the rear driveshafts' u-joints. The propeller shaft u-joints might have Zerk holes also. You might need to get a Zerk fitting since Nissan plugged the holes with screws from the factory. The ball joints need grease also.

Looks okay in that picture. As said before, check all of them. If you want to get a better idea, mark all of the wear pads with some layout fluid or a magic marker then rotate the engine a few times. The cam will rub away the marking and show you what's happening. Some of the wear might be from before the new camshaft was installed. Good luck.

This angle of the one that you think is off-center.

That's not good. Can you get a shot from the side to see if it's up on top of the edge of the lash pad. Might be that you actually have a very loose rocker arm. The end of the rocker arm should sit between the two ears. Can't tell which one you're looking at.

A cam lobe that's dropping off of the edge of the wear pad could be the cause of the noise you're hearing. The pattern is definitely "wrong", out of spec., but as RacerX said some people do it on purpose to gain a bit more valve lift. Overall though, the odds seem good that you'd be better off with the proper lash pads to get the wear pattern centered. The three that you showed seem very close, the middle one might even be the noisemaker.

Take the same picture from the other side. Compare to RacerX's pictures.