Zed Head

The only thing that matters at this point, right now, is how much of the bolts stick out from the bottom of the cover when you stick the bolts in to the holes. Forget about all of that other stuff and focus on that. Stick the bolts in the holes. Measure or take a picture of the bolts sticking out of the bottom of the holes. That image, or measurements, will establish the ground work for future suggestions on this problem. The suggestion about the flat washer was intended for AFTER you determine if you have the correct bolts.

Do you have a picture of the FSM image showing the rubber only? I can't find it. Also just realized that the commonly available electronic 1975 FSM appears to actually be the 1976 FSM. The actual 1975 FSM seems very crude, with misspellings. The 76 image shows a separate pipe that could easily be transplanted from a 76 to a 75, if they did start with a long rubber hose. My impression of their system is that they only used very short pieces of rubber to connect metal tube, over the manifolds.

Put the bolts in the holes like in this picture then take a picture from the side.

Your bolts might be too long. Run them in to their holes with the cover off and see how deep they go. It's a little bit weird that you removed the cover without removing the hose first. Remove the hose before you put it back together, and be extra careful when you reassemble everything. Check the mating surfaces, install the thermostat in the housing making sure it's flat and seated in its groove, place the gasket carefully, then carefully set the cover on and insert the bolts. Tighten the bolts firmly, use a torque wrench if you have one. Then put the hose on.

You're missing the little rubber grommets/standoffs/vibration insulators. So you actually have more and redundant grounding. Nissan engineers were just being fastidious in ensuring that all part functions were accomplished, with that dedicated ground wire. Powering up shouldn't cause any problems, at least as far as grounding is concerned.

The cam sprocket's postilion, relative to the crankshaft, is determined by the chain. You can check the damper with the camshaft completely removed. I like the idea of removing the crankshaft damper bolt and washer and checking the woodruff keyway position. It should be visible and oriented to the top of the cylinder bores. I'd say "straight up" but the engine is tilted. Once hate starts removing belts though, he'll probably find that it's wiggly and obviously bad. If the bolt was easier to get to and remove this would probably be the first thing we recommend. But it's a pain, so it's not.

Don't want to hijack your thread. Just trying to figure out who decided. Seems to be the IZCC, I guess. Internet Z Car Club. Carry on. There's probably a past thread out there about it.

Weird, I've been observing the 240Z's indirectly, since I have a 280Z, but I never noticed anyone refer to anything but Series I and Series II (and there have been arguments over just those two labels). But now I see that maybe they go all the way up to IV. And there are actually two Series I's, a 1969 and 1970 version. Is this generally accepted labeling or is it just a certain club's? I found Carl Beck's page when I searched "240Z Series III". Somehow I'd never seen it before. http://zhome.com/History/DesignChanges.htm

Makes sense now. I was thinking of the air hose to the top side of the AAR. Those hoses get overlooked. And they're hard to get to. I should replace mine.

I watched a few and I think that once he got a bid the number on the screen only showed the last bid made. Before he got the first bid though it would show what he was asking. Maybe all bids are off if the reserve isn't met. Still, $22,000 is a good number. Who knows about quality of the car though, I guess you have to be there.

What's up with the "$51" from your other post? Is that the hose from the cylinder head to the heater core? I couldn't eke out the complete story from your cryptic post. Why'd you replace the AAR hose? Not connected to coolant. Not getting the picture.

The auctioneer definitely said "we just sold the Datsun". I assume the sale price gets published somewhere on their site. $25,000 puts it in between Good and Excellent.

Couple more. I'm snow and iced-in in Oregon.

Sounded like it didn't hit reserve. Ended with "bid goes on", not sold. Then later he said we just sold the Datsun. Maybe the seller took the $25,000. Don't know how these auctions really work.

148

144.1 They got a new auctioneer. Sta-bil is a sponsor (just thought that was interesting).

140

Entertaining viewing, thanks djw. They're up to 130. It's been a mix of muscle cars, Range Rover, BMW's and oddball cars. The current auctioneer is irritating.

I seem to recall that some aftermarket timing chain sprockets don't have notches. It's the sprocket that has the notch. I'd focus on that damper first. It's a very important part even though it doesn't seem to do much but spin.

https://www.mecum.com/lots/FL0117-268010/1972-datsun-240z/ You can watch it live. They're at 81.1 https://www.mecum.com/auctions/kissimmee-2017/live/

You might have a later model damper, with the timing tab on the passenger side, or vice versa. You need to find out what's going on, because if your damper has spun then it's failing, and could cause more damage than just a misplaced timing mark when it lets go for good (bad).

Might be something in this link. Different year but the parts are probably similar. Probably a good Knowledge Base article. @Mike

It's already been deleted by its author. Wonder if the scammer watches the forum.

I was just trying to help you sell your car. A 1983 350 low compression smog motor is a whole different animal than a "built" 350. Just looking for some general words describing it. Did it come from a certain car, unmodified? Or is it a freshly rebuilt engine with performance parts? As Patcon says, there's a wide range of possibilities.

I've never heard of that o-ring air leak problem until now. Do you have even have the original pump in your car? Most have been replaced with aftermarket.