Zed Head

That is an odd noise. The exhaust note sounded great and like all 6 cylinders were balanced and working properly. But definitely sounded like a mechanical issue. Could be a rocker arm beating the crap out of a cam lobe, or vice versa, I guess.

That mp4 file is huge. I'm writing this while I wait for it to download. Youtube might be better for sharing. 77 is a change year, with the last of the external regulators, and AFM pump contacts, and rear brake design. Beware, not all 280Z advice will apply. Non sequitur note to rcb280z - do you realize how big your sig picture is? It takes up 2/3 of a page. Just sayin... I can see it. Almost downloaded 11 seconds...

Here it is - Could probably be an Article, just for the explanation and pictures alone. Not that it isn't a good idea also.

Couldn't he go the other way also and get another 260Z hub. Might be easier to find. That first picture implies that the hubs place the wheels on different bases. But as I understand it all S30's have the same wheel base dimensions. A better way to take that measurement is with the hubs on a bearing and spindle since it's where the bearing sits that will determine where the rotor ends up. In short - is there really a functional problem?

Welcome. This picture shows that you will do well here.

Pretty sure that CO moved his coolant flow control valve to the engine bay. To fix the off-on nature of the system when the capillary-controlled thermostat valve goes bad. He could probably put together a pretty good system overhaul and improvement procedure.

Sounds like your reaction disc is no longer in place.

What about Br (own)?

When are you going to work on the no-start problem? The problem and your plans don't seem to go together.

I remember emailing someone about a car down in Arizona, about 2009, before I got my car. Craigslist. Free shipping, in the military, shipping out soon, etc. They wrote a very tempting ad. It was hard to resist. http://www.craigslist.org/about/scams

Actually Nissan started labeling their temperature ranges in the FSM in 1974. Here's a copy from 1976, it's clearer. And don't forget that jalex is in Panama. There's probably not a Nissan dealer ever 30 miles like there is in the States. It looks like there has been some progress though. It doesn't die now.

Listing format - Chinese, Car location - Pennsylvania The story seems more plausible though: " 1973 datsun 240z.car was pulled out of unpaid storage bin.dont know much about car.looks like fresh paint.has one rust hole on drivers floor that i seen.car does run but shuts off like lack of fuel.does have some receipts in car.also has new seat covers,and some other parts that go with.car looks like it is all there and would not take much to put on road. "

It's a ghost car, traveling the internet, extracting money from unsuspecting victims. $3485 in September 2011. http://usedcarsfsbo.com/asp/Item.asp?soldid=26075&make=datsun&theday=9%2F22%2F2011

Wow, you're right. I wonder how we can shine some light on this guy. What do they do, ask for a deposit or something? How does it work? https://www.google.com/search?q=Beautiful+1973+240z+with+remarkably+low+milage.+The+engine+number+and+car+body+numbers+match.+A+magnet+test+was+done+indicating+no+body+work+was+done.+Front+fenders+were+replaced+in+the+1980's.+New+floor+pans+and+rails+-+see+photos.&oq=Beautiful+1973+240z+with+remarkably+low+milage.+The+engine+number+and+car+body+numbers+match.++A+magnet+test+was+done+indicating+no+body+work+was+done.+Front+fenders+were+replaced+in+the+1980's.++New+floor+pans+and+rails+-+see+photos.&aqs=chrome..69i57&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 Also notice that he mentions pictures that aren't there. No floor or rail images. "Beautiful 1973 240z with remarkably low milage. The engine number and car body numbers match. A magnet test was done indicating no body work was done. Front fenders were replaced in the 1980's. New floor pans and rails - see photos. "

I see, like a column of fuel held above the valve. The problem is the loss of pressure. Heated fuel will vaporize and blow the liquid through the FRP. Then you're left with a half-full fuel system at zero pressure. I modified one of the Bosch adjustable FPR's by drilling a hole in the adjustment screw. It's the poor man's version of this. It holds pressure, like a Bosch part should. Got mine from eBay. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-2222

You might try some fuel tank liner, like Red-Kote. Just a dab instead of a tank full.

Are you anticipating a bad valve in the pump? It should have a good check valve. My Airtex pump has worked fine for years. If you use an aftermarket FPR that's more likely to leak down. Probably mentioned that already, somewhere, maybe.

Open that CL ad and hit the prohibited button. We can at least make him work for his ill-gotten gains. Or, if somebody lives in the area contact the police and try to set up a sting. That would be fun.

Take off the radiator cap and take a picture of the coolant. Just to be sure that there is coolant now.

Look through the articles in the link below. Check the actual plastic on the rollers in the various channels,it can break off or split in to pieces and leave the center pin looking normal.. Check the plastic guides, make sure the adjustment bolts aren't moving in their slots. The fact the front of the window drops implies that one of the plastic rollers is broken and has too much play in its guide. Actually, put "door" in the search box on the Articles page. The cookies won't allow me to save the results page. http://www.classiczcars.com/articles/

Is the BAT car connected to this car? Just wondering. Still sitting at $18,750. 3 days left.

It looks almost identical to the BAT car in the other thread. Except for the bumpers.

Have you had the door cards/panels off? There are many parts inside that get gummed up or misaligned or break, affecting all of the problems you described..

Maybe just the weird price, $4082, and its lowness. If you do a search on the image though some odd things come up. Right click on the image in the ad and Google it. http://240zforsale.com/1973-detroit-metro-michigan/

Battery acid is a very good conductor. When it ate through the insulation and contacted the wires it short-circuited them. You need to split the insulation off of the wires, make sure the copper is intact, clean them up with water (maybe with a little baking soda to neutralize the acid), dry them, and re-insulate them. You can use electrical tape (if you do it right), or you can cut them, install shrink tubing, reconnect them, and shrink the tubing over the exposed wire. Easier than it sounds, with the right tools. Tape probably isn't a great way to do it because the wires are in a bad place and will probably get wet. The fusible link did its job when the sort circuit happened. Fix the short circuit, then replace the link. "B" is just the color. Black. "Acc" means Accessory, which is the circuit that your blower motor and other things are on.