Zed Head

Also - what does this mean?

Hey, since you're here - I had a thought about sites that I would click through to on a regular basis. Amazon, for sure. Put a link to Amazon here and I'll use it whenever I go there. Rockauto, definitely. Home Depot. I'll think of some others, but there are probably some obvious ones. I don't know how Google AdSense works exactly, but maybe you can lock a few ads in that will make the site a portal to other sites, that sell things besides Z car stuff. Edit - and, more generally, you could move some ads off of the more prominent spots. Like, I'm probably never going to buy a new Chrysler. Or a Michelin tire.

It's the 75-76 280Z tanks that are the hot item. They fit the 240Z's. The 77-78 tanks have the space-saver tire shape.

Aren't Kelly Bundy and coffee enough medication? Mike must be lurking. There's changes. I'll just fade back in to the crowd.

Those are made by EuroDat/Chas, from Holland, that's his thread. Good luck.

Just realized the 24 Hours shows every post, not every topic. Bummer. Oh well.

I didn't know the "discover" page was back. The 24 Hour page. Just switched. Thanks. You're right, it's direct to the latest activity. When I complain I like to think that I speak for the masses, that are otherwise just visiting less. But, it might be just me... Is the ironic part of the cartoon that someone in a blue shirt would help someone in a red shirt?

And sorry Mike, if that's a picture you took and that's why it's there. It's well done. Just a little played.

This will seem ironic, coming from me, but the big picture of the back end of a 280Z seems like it would be better used for some tasteful ads. Allowing the stuff I really want to see, new forum content, to rise up to where I can see it. As it stands the first thing I see is the back of that car and it's getting old, having to scroll down to where the good stuff is. Just saying, less 280Z butt, more ads, more content...everybody wins!

At last you're on the correct end of the car now. Still more to the puzzle though.

That's a good idea. A variation might be to use a needle on the end of your air hose and just insert it into the channel between the glass and seal, from the inside. Pressurize that,low pressure so you don't blow out the seal, and you should get plenty of bubbles on the outside. There can actually be a fairly large chamber between the glass and seal. The water that leaked in to mine from the outside would exit from the lower right corner on a left hand turn then from the lower left on a right hand turn. I had pondered finding a low viscosity liquid sealant to fill the void between seal and glass. But when I realized the leak was at the top and I'd have to fill a lot of void I went with the external black silicone. Plus my car is ratty. I'll bet you can find a very low viscosity sealant that will squirt and fill that void. We used to use something like that for Chevy windshields to fill the gap at the bottom. It flowed to fill gaps.

It's hard to find leak spots. Where it gets in and where it comes out are usually not close together. I removed the metal trim on mine to try and give some flexibility to the seal so I could squeeze some sealant in between the body and seal. It was a real pain getting it back in. I'd use the tricks from forums like this over the FSM procedures. The factory is using new slippery flexible factory seals and probably has special tools. We're out here in the real world.

Support the transmission and drop the crossmember by removing the single nut in middle and the bolts on the sides. Then the insulator nuts will be exposed. Actually not really sure what you're trying to do. What help would it be to drop the differential anyway? EDIT - your title says diff and your text says transmission. Edit 2 - you can let the nose of the diff hang down on the mustache bar to get a wrench on the nuts above. It's very strong spring steel and well bolted on.

Have you read the Body chapter section on the windshield? Describes installation, and also a sealer that they use between the glass and seal. If the seal is still flexible you might be able to reuse it, with sealant, although their removal procedure is destructive. They also talk about sealing leaks. It's a good read!

I've read posts from guys who had one of those on-site companies install a windshield, for much much less, and the company brought the windshield with them, from stock. $300 is 6 hours at $50/hour. Seems steep. Maybe if he guaranteed the installation, with windshield replacement if he breaks it, and the windshield was very very hard to find, like Rolls Royce hard-to-find. But that's not the case here. I'd look for someone else, myself. Windshields are not generally hard to install, for any car. I've done a few old Chevys, not too hard. Surface prep and sealing are the difficult part, and it's mostly just time-consuming detail stuff.

That is the way top do it. Iterative. Actually, the main reason they want idle speed to be low is so that the mechanical advance weights aren't advancing the timing. So it doesn't have to be exact. You'll probably find that you adjust the timing, then the idle speed, and the timing doesn't change, because it's below the activation RPM for the mechanical advance. If timing moves a lot at low RPM then you probably have a broken/weak spring in your distributor. You shouldn't get any change in timing until 1200 RPM. Specs. are in the Engine Electrical chapter.

Actually, it's just shut off completely. The hole in the throttle body is covered or on the other side of the throttle blade. Can't remember which. Just one of those weird things that can start pages of forum discussion - ported or constant vacuum advance supply. Google will give many pages if you try that phrase. Nissan went with ported, at least for EFI. I think it gives cleaner emissions and a steadier idle.

People have cut new slots in the housing. Easier to poke the little roll pin out and swap gears.

You should find that no vacuum is pulled at idle, at the hose connection. The vacuum advance port should be "ported" vacuum, it only gets vacuum when the throttle is off-idle. That's why Nissan doesn't mention it, I think. On page ET-6.

The number of teeth needs to match the diff gear set. But the orientation of the housing (which side the hold-down slot is on), and maybe the diameter of the gear (I've seen reference to other sizes but haven't seen it myself), can change with the transmission.

That is the combined relay. Spendy. I mis-wrote, there's actually even one more connector after the one by the passenger seat. If you open the passenger door, remove the sill plate, and peel the carpet apart at the seam, you'll see the connector. Attached a picture with wire colors. Notice that there's also one farther back, probably behind one of the plastic panels. Also attached a picture of the EFI relay wiring. Not easy to figure out, you'll probably need a meter to be sure.

That stuff is great. I've used it on several body to seal leaks. But it can't handle the sun. It will start peeling in just a few months if exposed.

I asked earlier about year of car because the fuel pump relay is combined with the EFI relay on 75-77 cars. Most people with 76 cars say that they replaced the EFI relay. Or the EFI and pump relay. I guess my point is "are you sure that it was the pump relay?" It's about 1x1x2" and silver. Power problems are actually fairly simple to diagnose. If I had your sporadic problem, I'd wire a light in to the pump power circuit just to be sure the pump is actually getting power. Don't overlook the connector next to the passenger seat. It's under the carpet and could be one of those dirty connector areas. Pump power runs through there, I think it's the last connector before the pump. Good place for a light wired in.

It's not's design aspect of the FPR, it's just a simple weakness or flaw. But that is what many of the aftermarket adjustable FPR's do. I used to have that problem with an Aeromotive. I replaced it. with an adjustable Bosch FPR. T'ing two wires at the replay could bypass the relay itself, or they might be bypassing the AFM switch. It could be that the T'ed wires to make the pump run all the time was an effort to fix the problem that you have now, but it didn't work. You might just have a bad pump relay. If you ID'ed the wires that were T'ed we could probably say why.