Zed Head

I was thinking this one might be enough.

People like the early intake manifolds too. The AFM might be worth getting. Distributor if it's in good shape. The whole engine if you have space for it. Rear struts. TC rods (you might break one some day). EFI/fuel pump combined relay (by the hood latch, inside, they're hard to find and do go bad).

It's in the 1983 MT chapter. Word.

Nobody wants to look at the picture? It's a big one. Or just set their meter up to beep and put the transmission in reverse? Just curious what's going on here. Am I missing something?

The red and green wires go to the pickup coil in the distributor, not the ignition coil. You won't be using the red and green wires at all. You'll only be using the L and the BW wires. Blue, and Black with White Stripe.

They can be very difficult to remove. Nissan used a good gasket and maybe some sealer. They tend to be glued on super-tight. I would soak the gasket seam with some PB Blaster or something similar, maybe some carb cleaner to start. Anything to soak into the paper of the gasket to loosen it up. I recall having to find the right piece of wood and maneuver it just right to get a good shot at knocking it loose. I think I might have used the clutch fork pivot ball somehow. Be careful, it's only aluminum. Edit - actually yours is steel I think so you might not have as big a worry. You might be able to remove the fork pivot ball and run a bolt in the threaded hole to push it off. Can't remember what exactly is behind the hole though. In short - yes it can be very difficult to break free.

You learn the most when the weird things happen. Forces you to focus on the basics of how things work.

It's just two wires, and a DC motor. Can't really screw that up beyond accidentally shorting the power wire and blowing a fuse, or connecting the wires backward. Those are, really, about the only two things that can go wrong. Sorry. Keep it simple. You might have accidentally bumped some other wires or discovered an already existing problem.

The new eyelets show that it's possible that you have it wired backward. If you look very closely I think that you'll find a + and a - molded in to the ceramic (or plastic. Whatever the white material is) where the wire terminal studs are. The green wire goes to +.

There's no second.

The path to misery. People get this wrong all the time. 43 and 35 years for somebody to have installed aftermarket, different, parts. Good luck.

Spray more fluid. Start if a few more times. Get some fuel flowing.

therz picters in the fsm. Seriously, they have really good pictures, with labels and stuff. Some of the ZX transmissions had a lot of switches. Hope you measured your throwout bearing collar and pressure plate height.

Oops. Never mind. Timing...

It might have just been leaking through the pump, backward. There's supposed to be a check valve that would not allow that, but, as I said, I always confirm. If you posted a picture or told what kind of pump it was we could give more suggestions.

You didn't say that you ran the pump and saw fuel coming out of it. I always go for full confirmation, avoid assumptions. There's not much to the damper. People do run without it. But if you're pump is wired backward it won't matter. Either way, you can remove or bypass the damper just for a test of the lines.

How do you know it's getting to the damper? Or through the pump? The simple test for blocked lines would be to disconnect them and blow through them. There are no check valves to worry about. Disconnect at the fuel filter then disconnect at the pump. If it's not blocked gravity will drain the line so have a container handy. Might be as simple as having the pump wired backward.

Your 4 speed had a 3.321 first gear - 3.321 x 3.54 = 11.75 Your 5 speed has a 3.062 first gear - 3.062 x 3.54 = 10.83 Swap your rear diff to a 3.9 and you'll be back to where you were on the low end - 3.062 x 3.9 = 11.94. A little quicker actually, with lower gears all the way to 4th, which is 1:1 for both. And you'll still have lower RPM at freeway speed. (4th) 1 x 3.54 = 3.54 (5th) .754 x 3.9 = 2.94

Funny that the guy thinks Craigslist is an auction site. $50,000 starting "bid". Does the BRE have significance?

He means that your gauges are on a separate wiring harness than the engine control system harness. That's the key to what you're talking about doing - the harness for the engine and its computer is separate from the body harness that controls your gauges. You might have to swap oil pressure senders or bring over more 1981 parts than just engine control. There's also fuel pump control to worry about. It's not plug and play, it's complicated. Get the wiring diagram from the Factory Service Manual and study it. It shows all of the connectors.

His other parts say that he has a 1970 240Z. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-Mechanical-Fuel-Pump-Kyosandenki-OEM-Nice/123098054441?hash=item1ca9373f29:g:g7cAAOSw7UJa33~u https://www.ebay.com/sch/240zlover777/m.html?item=123097957996&ul_noapp=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562

Edit - my mistake. He says 2 in the description. $300 / cap. (So how many is he selling? Doesn't say. ) Two of the pictures look almost exactly the same, like he moved it one inch for the next shot. Three shade pictures and one in the sun. Hiding the backs now. Still 100% positive feedback. $600 and he won't even pay for shipping. Anybody positive who this guy is yet?

I would put a list together. You might be right about $1000, after you add up the nickels and dimes. Master cylinder, slave cylinder, slave cylinder hose, flywheel, clutch kit, throwout bearing collar, shifter, shifter boot, pilot bushing, new seals for the transmission. New rear main seal for the engine, while you're there. My method is to put a list of parts together, then go through the whole process, on paper and in my head. Lifting the car, removing bolts, all of that. You'll spend less time stuck, waiting for the stores to open.

Here is a link I just posted on Hybridz for somebody doing the same thing. Do you have the pedal box? Not sure that swapping just pedals will work. The easiest thing to do might be to find an old junked 4 speed 240Z and buy the whole car, then find an old junked 5 speed 280ZX and buy the whole car. Kind of kidding, but that's how I bought my first 5 speed transmission, except it was from an old 5 speed 280Z. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/brake/brake-clutch-pedal

So, basically, part of the hardness issue is about how hard you have to press the pedal to get the car to stop. You're saying that the brakes don't work better, they work worse. It sounds like the booster works correctly. It's hard to tell how far the pedal is moving when you're pumping the system up, and how many times you pump. That would be a clue about whether it's air in the system or something else. Pumping the brakes is just a way to compress air bubbles. The fluid doesn't get pushed back out of the caliper faster than your foot can push more fluid in to it. So, if th pedal moves a long distance and it takes a few mups, that's a big air bubble. On the other hand, if the fronts don't feel like they're working after being pumped up, then you might have a pad and/or rotor problem. Any chance there's something slippery on them? Once the system gets pumped up and the air bubbles are compressed then it should behave like it will normally. If the pad friction on the rotors is sufficient you'll get braking force. Hope that helps. You need to separate the system in to its parts and think about each. Here's a clue about big bubbles in the calipers - the brake check light should come on if your switch is installed and working. Mine did when I had my stock calipers installed upside down. It was a clue that made more sense when somebody noticed a very large quantity of fluid leaving the reservoir and coming back as I worked the brakes..