Zed Head

Must be a 72 thing -

It might have been leaking for quite while, a drip at a time, until it finally got empty enough to stop working. The cylinder with the reservoir is the master cylinder. The slave cylinder is on the passenger side of the transmission. The dust boot on the slave cylinder can hold a lot of fluid, and any leaks would show up more in the area under the starter. If you slide the dust boot off of the slave cylinder a bunch of fluid might squirt/leak out. There's no clamps it's just a flexible seal that you can peel off by hand. I had a bad slave cylinder on my 280Z and the boot was full but there was no large leak. There's a rubber boot on the master cylinder too. It protrudes in to the cabin, you can see it from inside. So, like SteveJ says, the fluid can end up inside. And, the reservoirs can get loose and leak. Or crack. The fluid will drop down in to that dirty dusty area under the cylinder in the engine bay.

The Courtesy site says that factory rubber is still available. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/front-suspension https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-parts/nissan-insulator-rack-54444n3401 https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-parts/nissan-insulator-rack-54445n3401

That's a "pass". Open circuit (infinite resistance) to ground, on all three. I'm guessing that your ECU connector test is going to be a "pass" also. The clamp on the return line might not work if the pump is struggling. The gauge will tell. Everything about the EFI electronics revolves around a controlled and predetermined fuel pressure. The ECU programming is based on it.

I didn't really see a problem with adding strips of rubber to a loose bushing. In use, because it's so thick, the precision of the fit is almost irrelevant. If you put a camera on it you'd probably see it squishing and deforming pretty dramatically. The fit is more for recentering everything, after the squishing during cornering, I think.

I was going to say the same. I'll add that my MSA kit came with Ground Control bushings, apparently. There were instructions from them for one of them. They're black. I could not get the gap to close completely even with grease, but the clamps were fully tightened. I left it that way, figuring that the movement from usage would level things out pretty quickly, with the lubrication, and it did. 1976 280Z

To be sure, can you describe how you did the test or show a picture? With the TVS off of the engine you'd have to connect one of your leads to the mounting plate, since that would be the path to ground. With everything installed you can run that test at the ECU connector by placing the negative lead on a good ground point then testing each of the three pins. And, to be very sure, you want no reading on your meter, like it's waiting for you to do something, or a very very high one, in ohms. If you had a test light it wouldn't light, or a test beeper it wouldn't beep.

Hard to say. It just means that one of the contacts is shorted to ground. It might just be a trail of dirt or a bent contact. You could probably take the cover off and clean it up and get it back in order. There's not much to them.

If the ECU doesn't see it it doesn't count. Trace the wires from the ECU to the TVS, it's easier than it seems. Most of the engine's electronic components are on sub-harnesses with bullet connectors tying in to the main harness to the ECU. Maybe yours are disconnected. "Full throttle" is actually about 75% throttle opening or something like that so it could be a factor. The ECU adds a lot of extra fuel at "full" throttle. " " " " " The ECU plug has its own grounds. The FSM tests are explicit, nothing needs to be added. Place the probes and read the meter.

Here you said the TVS (not really TPS) is good. Here's the 82 procedure. It's on page 82. Too.

The colors are definitely red, violet, gold, gold. Seems like a pretty big gap between 2 and 3. That's why I picked "none" in a 5 band. But, apparently, the bands start and end on the bumps at the ends of the resistor. I'm learning. So, pick 4 or pick 6 and you get the same 2.7. I went ahead and measured it with a Fluke and got a 3.1 ohm reading. Minus the .3 to .4 lead resistance gives 2.7 to 2.8 ohms. Minutiae.

Did you add an extra "0" by accident? I got a different number. If I go with a four band the number gets even smaller. So, with a more time for the subconscious to think, I'm thinking the resistor is to reduce sparking at the fuel pump relay switch contacts in the AFM. They are so tiny.

Just remembered that I have a fried 76 relay sitting in the vicinity of me. Here's a picture. Don't know the color codes off the top of my head. It's the only one in there.

Not sure it's hugely critical. It just needs to pass enough current to close the fuel pump relay. Pin 36 is power back (to ground) from pin 39 through the fuel pump relay contact switch, if I read the diagram right. Not an electrics guy but the relay coils usually have about 50-60 ohms resistance. I think that they pull about about 0.3 amps. Just working from memory on past current draw problems, through relays. That combined relay is a weird mamajama. After hurting my brain looking at it I decided that I don't even know why that black rectangle is there. Seriously, why is it there. The relay coil provides resistance. Beside that, I think that somebody would have to disassemble a relay to measure its resistance. I'm assuming the black rectangle is what you're talking about.

Download away. Sorry if all you have is a phone. They're not as smart as the phone makers make them out to be. http://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/11-240z/

Here's 1971.

Here's the diagram from the Body Electrical chapter, from the downloadable file on the site. BE-4. Sorry to be so in-your-face but it really was in my face as soon as I looked at it. It's from 1970 though.

Forgot to mention the distributor. If the breaker plate bearings are good. A very common failure, especially when they sit. You should probably remove and clean your distributor before the little plastic bearing cage breaks. There are many little things that can be saved with a little preventive work. Clean the alternator air openings and oil the bearings, for example. Stuff most of us never did when we first started our old cars.

Is it a 71 or does it have a 71 build date? Have you looked at the 72 diagrams? There aren't many wires. A multimeter would answer a lot of questions. The B/W wires are probably the Start and Run power to the coil. Y is probably the temperature sender. B is usually ground.

The AFM and ECU won't be "correct" for the year but they'll work in your car. Good to have for testing if you find running problems later. Depends on cost of course. The combined EFI/fuel pump relay also. The FPR if it's cheap. Check the injectors, they might be newish. Exhaust manifold if you can get it off without snapping the three studs. Clutch parts - the 225 mm flywheels are NLA now for the most part. Half-shafts if the u-joints are in good shape and they don't want too much. If you can pick up cheap parts they're good to have, just in case. Later, when you need to remove something and break a stud you'll have the replacement ready.

You might just use water for testing then let it run out or drain it when you're done. On the fuel, if you don't want to pull the injectors (nobody does but almost everybody ends up doing so) you could disconnect the return line by the filter and let the pump push whatever is in the rail and injectors out in to a container. See what was in there. The injectors and their hoses are dead zones in the flow path so after the initial purge you might reconnect everything and let the pump run. Diffusion will mix the old dead fuel in the injectors with good fuel and it will end up diluted in the tank. Otherwise, once you get everything electrical working right you'll be shooting old dead fuel in to the cylinders. Maybe even water. Another way to power the pump is to remove the AFM cover and move the vane's counterweight, with the key on. You should a click and then the pump will run. Or. You can pull the injectors and rail and give everything a good rinse. Seafoam has a following. But it's really just a mix of oil and stuff that burns. Makes mysterious smoke. Gasoline is a super solvent.

Not clear which problem is the problem. The switch to manual or the wiring. Does the engine run and the car drive? Is there something that doesn't work? And where's the pictures?

That's a nice looking car though. Make sure you don't set it on fire. Get a milk crate or box or build a seat, then sit on that seat with a meter and the wiring diagram. Maybe with a little space heater in the car. Some beers. Your phone or laptop so that you can show us what you find. Take measurements and write down what you find or don't find. Since wiring has been removed (edit - had dash here), there are many many things that could be disconnected. The grounds are just as important as the power leads. Realized that your dash is still in place, which is good. But there are relays under the seat, and the Hazard switch in the console and stuff on the steering column that can be a problem.

It's a toasty 39 F here in the great northwest. Dave is right, you need to get a meter and make sure power is where power should be. The simple test for the fuel pump is to disconnect the starter solenoid wire and turn the key to Start. But apparently you don't have power to the starter solenoid. 107,000 is low miles for these engines. Assume that the engine is going to run fine once you get the other stuff sorted out. Spend your time on the small stuff. One short circuit causing melted wires will ruin things for you. I still remember taking the advice of a friend about using a Juicy Fruit wrapper to "fix" a blown fuse. Those wrappers can pass a lot of current.

A long comma, like a long pause? Very creative writing, I like it. Browse the categories on the right on this page, and download your FSM and other guides. Wiring diagrams, troubleshooting guides, they're all in there. http://www.classiczcars.com/files/ How did the fuel that you drained look? Is there rust in the tank? Does the fuel pump work? We love pictures here. What, exactly, are you trying to get out of it? You're trying to start it when it's probably full of crud that will get circulated through the various systems, engine, fuel system, cooling system, etc. Not good for long-term but you'll probably have fun before other stuff starts to break, if you get it running.