Zed Head

Have you seen this Nissan document? https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/60-fuel-system-modification-plus-73-74/ Nissan turbos used fuel injection. But some still have heat soak problems with the injectors.

Wires getting hot when the starter is engaged could be a poor connection of the battery positive cable to the starter itself. The starter pulls a lot of current. Did you replace the starter with a new one or just another old unknown unit? You have a lot going on to try to figure it out without more details of what wires are connected to what. And your descriptions aren't making complete sense. You said the starter was spinning, but then said the switch had not been delivering power. How can the starter spin if it's not getting power? The switch only passes power to the starter solenoid anyway. The battery positive cable drives the starter motor. Check out the wiring diagrams and take some pictures of your starter connections and post them. Something might be obvious from a picture.

Can you take a picture of what's under the distributor cap? The XR700 used an optical trigger originally, but somebody might have kept the VR trigger. You need to know what you have. It might not be a straightforward swap to the GM HEI module. Sorry, I would have added more detail if I'd known you were going to try it.

When did they get hot? With the key Off, On, or at Start? Any chance you installed the battery cables backward? You need to give more detail than "difficulty starting" and "replaced some parts". Why did you replace the parts if you thought it was the reset button?

Seems to be missing a lot of parts.

He says in the text that the engine number matches...something. Incorrect wording but still seems to know. It's just a valve cover. He could easily add a picture of the engine number if somebody sent him a question, you'd think. " The vehicle has matching numbers (Engine/Drivers Door)"

Still 2601. Still interesting, maybe more interesting, just not the original car of the thread topic. Not 6230.

That says "similar item". It's 2601, for $9500 buy it now.

OReilly Auto has them for about $22. Just realized that there are zero Oreilly's in the Philadelphia area. Must be some mafia thing. Weird. But, the local auto mafia, whoever they are (probably the same crew that sells beer by the case from open warehouses), probably has some. They're not that NLA yet, I think. https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/brake-systems-16456/brake-hydraulics-16513/wheel-cylinder-11318/5020ef8206ed/1978/nissan/280z?q=brake+cylinder

I meant mismatched as old versus new. CO has/had four cylinders, two leak and two don't. Or didn't. By the way I have a set of the early sliding cylinders, for 1976, if anyone needs some. One old non-leaker and one new non-leaker. And brake shoes. I switched to the 78 style brakes. A puzzle for the next owner.

If I read the bigger picture right you have two old cylinders, one of which was leaking, and two newer cylinders, one of which is leaking. So, hoping that moisture and storage hasn't damaged the older non-leaker, and that you still have it like a good hoarder should, you have an old non-leaker and a newer non-leaker. Esthetically displeasing but should get you on the road while you work on the mismatched leakers.

I didn't see a direct answer to this but I'd just replace it. It's bolted in. Somebody should have one for cheap and they're not that heavy. Just an odd part to have shipped.

That looks worth the effort. Just keep in mind that these cars are basically big squarish tin cans. The "frame" rails are just reinforcements so the can doesn't crumple.

What are you going to use to run the 3.1? Carbs or the 1977 EFI? The word is that the stock EFI system doesn't work well with high performance engines. It's not tunable. Plan ahead. That 82 5 speed likes 3.9 gears in the back. Might be a little "boggy" off the line with the normal 77 3.54. Looks like fun. Several 77's in the works on the site right now.

77 is a transition year?

Generally, if the numbers are within 10% of each other it's considered good. Nissan's range is even wider. Plus you're supposed to measure on a warmed up engine. Your numbers look pretty good. Don't worry about the actual number, the gauges all vary in what they produce. It's the comparison between them that matters.

Glad it worked. I was not kidding though about a $25 GM HEI module being better than the XR700 for producing a strong spark. In its day the 700 was high tech, but now it's an antique. Like a TI-99 compared to any of the cheapest modern computers. Keep it in mind if things go back to weird. Good luck.

That looks like electrical noise on the wire. The tach just "counts" voltage pulses. That tach looks like it reads right otherwise. You might try adding a condenser to the negative post. It worked for me, when I had a similar problem. Might also be a sign of a failing XR700. That's what the factory ignition module's do when they start to fail. Weird tach behavior.

Stole this from an eBay listing.

Grab it with some channel-locks or big pliers or a meaty fist and twist/pull it off. Give it some taps with a hammer. It's just a metal sleeve over a tube.

So far it's just been pictures of rusty and/or missing metal. What's the rest of the car look like?

There's a ton of opinions out there. Sometimes the methods used are really just making up for failings in other areas. Proper fitment is the key for dampers, which the various instructions out there go in to detail about. Even if thread locker is used, it too has to be used properly. Loctite on oily threads isn't worth much. So, it's not just a more is better scenario. It's the details. Red Loctite on a sloppy fit will probably fail also. Some of these guys go "full red" Loctite, some don't even use it. Why not just tack it on with a MIG? One surface that's not mentioned much is the flat mating surfaces, where the clamping actually happens. Not the bore. Those surfaces need to be clean and flat and parallel so that no distortions are induced by the bolt. It's a simple looking part with lots of complexity. https://sdparts.com/attachment/306380-Installation Instructions http://harmonicdampers.com/downloads/pdf/tech/BHJ_DamperSteelInstallPress.pdf http://www.atiracing.com/instructions/Super-Damper.pdf https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thread-locking_fluid

If you still have things disconnected, measure continuity from the post on the tach that the red wire was connected to, to ground. Or measure continuity to ground at the blue wire terminal by the coil, with the red wire connected. It sounds like your tach might be shorted to ground at the red wire post. So when you connect the blue wire to the coil it also shorts to ground which would cause the ignition system to malfunction. There's a guy out there somewhere that rebuilds these tachs.

We call those bushings, or bushes. Here is a web site that will have the part numbers. You can search the part number on the internet and find many places that might have them. You'll have to remove the spindle pin to get the control arm (transverse link) removed in order to replace them. It can be difficult. Wilkommen to the site. Forgot to say that the part you're pointing at is just an outer flange of the main bushing. There's a steel shell around a cylindrical bushing assembly that is pressed in to the control arm. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle

Stock parts?