Zed Head

That's four sketchy electrical connections. The distributor wires, the condenser, the fusible link, and this. The distributor wires can actually put a big voltage spike. The alternator can get spiked, apparently, if the battery gets disconnected. Bad things happen with bad electrical connections. Might be time for a general search and destroy mission.

Before the problem or after? A volt/ohm meter would tell you a lot. Measure voltage at the points. Confirm that they have a ground path. Close them, open them.

Figure out where the line is connected. There is a supply line, a return line, and a vent line. The filter looks like it is on a smaller line than the one next to it. It might be on the vent line. p.s. you have too many threads going on too many different forums for me. Too chaotic and unfocused. Good luck.

I wonder if the "stock" distributor was stock to a 240Z. The good news is that it used to run. It's almost midnight in Copenhagen. 11:43 pm.

It's usually caused by heat. Higher RPM flows more current through certain parts of the module. Maybe you just haven't been revving it up over the last week. Now that you have some ideas maybe one of them will fit the symptoms better. That's a good thread you picked out. FastWoman gives good advice.

Yes, that is it. Without a tachometer you have a dilemma. You can either guess at solutions or rig up a way to see if you're losing spark. You could wire in a GM HEI module for a $25 test method. Or wire in an LED on the coil wire. Hang it out of the hood, if it stops flashing you've lost spark. You might see if you can make it happen at rest. Just rev the engine up to 4000 RPM in the driveway and see if it dies. If you can find a way to reproduce it with the hood open there are some tricks you can try.

The order in which you did all of these things might be a clue. Your first sentence implies that the 1-2-3 system produced some spark, but the engine would not start and run. Is that correct? It's not clear after that if you immediately reinstalled the points distributor or if you replaced all of those parts then installed the points distributor. Kind of looks like you might have just got some wires wrong when you reinstalled the points distributor. Points systems are very easy to check since you can open and close the points by hand. With a meter you can check that the circuit is being made and being broken, and that there is a circuit to ground. Much less mystery than electronic systems.

Your description isn't quite right. You said you were cruising along and the engine died then you applied gas. The details will give a better answer. Your symptoms look a lot like mine when my ignition module died. I could reproduce the problem by revving over 3000 PRM. Watch the tachometer needle. The module location is shown in the Engine Electrician chapter. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/13-280z/ p.s. I finally figured out what the + next to Quote is for. Symbology is aggravating. Guess...

I think so. It has many tips for increasing power but maintaining durability. How to unshroud valves, match ports, get the rotating parts balanced for higher revs, choose lash pads and confirm wipe patterns. The kind of things you'll need to do to get 200-220 HP, I think. Probably help you pick the right machinist also for any work done. The authors of those two books shared a lot of information so there's some overlap. The two books are a good set.

Does everything still work correctly? There is no need to put extra effort in to insulating those wires. If you still want to do it, you could cut the ring off, add the shrink tube, then put a new ring on.

But I think that he's just guessing on some of it, like we all do. He said he didn't want to mess with the balance but then he still did some grinding. But he didn't see what might actually be a balancing divot right above his grinding area.

He covers a lot of important stuff though.

Get a proper damper puller. This guy risks tearing his damper apart.

Do an external ocular assessment before beginning the teardown. Did anyone mention the other book, How to Modify... https://www.amazon.com/Modify-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128049/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=how+to+modify+your+datsun&qid=1550431588&s=automotive&sr=1-1-catcorr

That is true. The adapter makes the wires at the alternator correct. So you'd just need to get those right for the plug at the GM SI. Some of the other high output alternators, like ZSpecialties' 140 amp unit, are "one-wire". Still waiting for him to finish his web site. https://www.datsunstore.com/

I think that the GM alternators are typically run as "one wire" systems. The S(ense) wire is just shorted to the B(attery) wire. Edit - and the L(amp) wire. All one wire. So the alternator will produce current. Other wires run through the VR. Haven't really followed them out. Best beware.

That is not a fusible link, it's just a wire. All of the wire ends down there are exposed so a little bit more won't matter. Do you have a picture of the part on your car that was melted? The picture you posted must be from somewhere else.

Car videos always have something funny in them. I like where he says "dialed in properly, rides well" as they bounce off the bump stops. 2:40. And apparently no seat belt laws in Florida. The cops didn't say a word. This is a little worrisome.

You can still get external voltage regulators. Here's a link, with pictures https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1971,240z,2.4l+l6,1209158,electrical,voltage+regulator,4884. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=532221&cc=1209158&jsn=359

Let the hoarding begin...

The 202k engine has a "match box" distributor. Might be a 79 ZX engine. So it will have a ZX intake and exhaust manifold. One thing to think about. Your exhaust pipe won't fit it, and the AFM hoses are different size. The 148k looks pretty good. They're both intact. You might loosen a hose clamp and smell the fuel. Might be a clue about how long they've been sitting. Looks like your like-for-like swap option is gone, the 76 N42, or maybe you haven't seen it yet. If they come with a warranty you might plan ahead to set them up and make them run. With a can of ether and a battery you could fire them up on distributor power alone. You'll need a way to spin though if you don't have a spare transmission. I wired up my spare EFI harness on an engine I bought at on a half-price day at the local yard, to make sure it was decent and I didn't need to return it. It was fun.

I f the 0 is actually an 8...

http://www.zhome.com/IZCC/ZRegisters/classic.htm

I know you're probably restoring so want things to look right. So maybe an extra filer is not describable. But if the new filters, which are invisible once installed, don't filter to a finer level or the same level as the "strainer" aren't they kind of pointless? I wonder what the material on the inside of the strainer is? This is from 1972, I can't find earlier stuff.

Many carbs use a sintered brass filter (might have been discussed, there's a lot of pages in this thread...). Find the right size and devise a way to seal and you might have a more durable replica filter. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-162-500?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-holley&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2f6ynZa84AIVg-NkCh0buwKbEAQYASABEgJZG_D_BwE These guys have a huge selection - http://www.hengko.com/