Zed Head

Are the wheels hanging or are the stands under the control arms? If the wheels are hanging the u-joint angles can cause binding and clunking as the wheels spin. You started with a miss and now you have a transmission problem. Doesn't really follow. Move the stands to under the control arms to get the wheels back to normal ride height. Only need to do it on the back of course.

Pretty nice paint and a good color. Couldn't the painter find some newspaper to cover the battery and other goodies? Looks like one of those bank robber quick color change jobs. Not terrible, adds character. Are those eBay fusible links? Good luck.

That was my point. Ruin the bonding surface if you don't want a bond. Just some thoughts. There are other ways too. http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/08/masking.html#.XKOQEZ7QiiQ http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/08/powder-coat-masking-part-ii.html#.XKOQDp7QiiQ

He started another thread -

Is this normal practice or your own idea? Seems messy. You could probably just rub your greasy hands over the areas you don't want the powder to stick and it would peel off.

I pulled a freeze plug once by poking a hole in it with a sharpened nail, driving a long wood screw in to the hole, grabbing the end of the screw with a pair of vise-grips, and levering it out by using a big screwdriver under the vise-grips and a wood block as a fulcrum. If there's enough meat left around the edge that might give you something to work with. Just an idea, to build on.

Your "we" is the small we. Most of "us" appreciate that there are many ways to get a job done. And, "we", meaning "us" (maybe just "me") only diss people who are judgmental. Let the guy do what he wants to do. It's his car. Plus it probably has a high VIN.

Good ol' JBWeld...

Written like somebody with lots of time and money. Edited - don't want to get in trouble. Beside that - wouldn't you just pay somebody else to do the work? Be honest.

And if you get a new clutch kit, make sure it matches the sleeve.

Nissan has the stuff for that project all spread out in the FSM. The pilot bushing is in Engine Mechanical, but it should be in Clutch or Transmission. I've had one get stuck when installing, had to break it out and buy a new one. Wide tolerances on aftermarket parts. To Mark's point, you might have to wire brush the splines on the input shaft, so the disc slides easily. They get rusty and gummed up.

While you're there you should probably replace all of the hoses. Even the injector hoses if they have that braided hose on them, which seems to be on the rail. Probably original. Mine were and they eventually sprung a leak. I smelled fuel, stopped, popped the hood with the engine still running, and a thin stream of raw gasoline shot by my head to the sidewalk. Luckily there were no people walking by, and i had a screwdriver in the car to crank the clamps down. The hoses had tiny lengthwise cracks. You can probably see them with a bright light on the end of the hose. Plus you'll probably bend things if you try to replace the FPR without removing the injectors. I've seen many bent rails.

How about driving it inward, then bending the piece that's left while it's inside the head, so that it will come out of the hole? Probably work best if the rim that's left is even thinner. Or youmight find that driving it inward breaks the bond to the head and once you break that bond it will pull out. Or, if you have a steady hand, saw or grind several notches in to the piece that's left so that it is more likely to bend as you try to pry it out. Your biggest risk, probably, is damaging the seat for the new plug.

Kind of doesn't make sense, what you're trying to do. I did like AV8 in my 76 and figured out what needs to go in first and getting the little nuts off the back of the handle, etc. The rod just presses in to the bushings. No need to break anything. Can't tell what stage you're at, if you have the new handle in already or if you're trying to figure out how it works first.

Just curious but are those the right lug nuts for those wheels? Mag wheel lug nuts extend deep in to the wheel. Mine barely stick out past the edge of the wheel center but they have plenty of thread engagement. https://www.gorilla-auto.com/gorilla-tech-tips

If he plans to swap a V8 in that wouldn't matter so much. Generally, I say pick a car that has the least of what you hate doing and the most of what you like. Why buy a rusty Series I car with a low VIN (high value to many) if you hate body work and want to modify it? I bought my non-running 76 car, engine quality unknown, because it was straight, no body work required, with minor rust. I've had several diffs and transmissions in it, different seats, suspension, brakes, and it has a 1978 engine. Great fun doing all of that work and I never smelled Bondo once, or got sanding dust on me.

What are your plans, and what are your skills? Find out more about how long it's been sitting and what is broken. California has non-op fees also. You should just put your city in your avatar, searching area codes is a pain.

Negative. Not bad.

The point of dat240z71's story is in post #27 and those that follow. Pretty funny. Dent. Thanks dat. That dented "Series 1" car might actually be worth $5500 or more. What's the VIN? I'm guessing that 2fourtyzee was still offended from being turned down, hence the tude. AV8's CL post looks like a good deal.

And there's this. It actually runs. Could be an adventure. https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/d/portland-1976-datsun-280z-coupe-low/6829015433.html

They are out there. You know that your title says - $5000, but you wrote - $2000. Is it 5 or 2? This guy just posted.

You're avoiding the point now. If you know a thing or two, show it, don't talk about it. You're the one who claims to know, not me. lol

How about a picture of one of yours and a ballpark price? Just for reference. You might be one of the guys that has inflated ideas. lol. Let's get the whole picture.

Does it read zero when it's disconnected? That's always a good first check of a gauge.

With the engine running, doesn't matter about the battery. Your other voltage test showed that your alternator is providing high voltage.