Zed Head

There was just a few posts about this on the forum somewhere. The striker rod seal hardens up/wears out, and leaks, apparently. One possibility. Hard to fix.

I remember some of those threads. I think that my motor mounts are Anchor brand, from Oreilly auto. There are others. Brand was a question. Mine had screwed up threads on the studs.

Which parts are not aligning? I left all of my nuts and bolts loose and a pointed chisel as a drift pin to align the motor to mount holes to get the bolts through. My problem was the motor to mount alignment. The locating pin to mount stud distance was fine.

Do you need adjustability or is yours broken. The stock one is adjustable.

I think that a good radiator cap and recovery system might tell you something. When I had an external coolant leak through the HG the recovery system didn't work. It wouldn't pull coolant back in so the radiator level was always a bit low. Had to keep refilling. Of course, you'd only know if you ran the engine every day for a week or two. You could pressurize the system, cold, and see if it holds. It's supposed to be a closed system with an ~13-15 psi release pressure.

Sorry, I thought you meant an L28 N47. The Maxima N47 does have the smaller combustion chamber so would give a higher CR, even on a dished piston block. Most people call that head the MN47. I think that one of the valves is smaller than the L28 N47. It's fuel injection head on a later model car with catalytic converters and O2 sensors, I think. So it would run cleaner. The injectors might be worth getting, they're probably the same as the L28 injectors. Even the whole engine control system if you want to set one up with O2 sensor feedback.

N47 on an N42 block with dished pistons is the 1977 to 1980 L28 engine. You might be thinking of the late 1980 and up F54 block with flat top pistons. The N47 head is the same as the N42 head except for the round exhaust ports and liners. So now you have a spare engine and a spare N47 head?

I think that there are two but the FSM only shows one path. I have an old HG in the garage and it has two copper sealed oil passages, one in the middle and one up front by the cover. The actual orifice in the block is tiny.

You don't really have to block flow just make sure that it's not a wide open path back to the water pump inlet. I "blocked" mine by just kinking the "bypass" hose. Your leak is most likely one of the hoses from the heater core to the valves in the firewall. Hard to reach but you can see them from underneath the glove box.

Not sure on the various payment methods. The car does have open questions. No VIN listed. No mention of title, might be a salvage title. Also looks like it might have a lot of iffy body work, I see waviness and mottled paint. An old 71 with a salvage title and bad bodywork might be about a $4000 car.

Actually, more come up if I click on the broken images.

Does seem like a sweet deal. I could only get one picture to come up. Original 1971 Datsun 240 Z Numbers Matching with same owner for over 30 years. Documented with service records, low mileage 102k actual miles Been stored the last 20 years in Original drivetrain 6 Cylinder / 4 Speed transmission All original body - never taken apart - solid rust free body Original slot wheels - suspension - original undercarriage & floor pans Factory Silver, was repainted gray sometime in the 80's, upholstery reupholstered Still remains the original spare tire. Solid floor boards, frame structure & trunk compartment Beautiful dash, no cracks. Running & driving just fine. Starts right up, original carburetors Shifts, brakes & steers just fine. I still have the original California emissions in a box. Overall, an original Early 71' 240Z, running & driving.

I would be interested in seeing it. I have no interest in another Z so I promise not to steal it. I might see a reason for the low price, who knows.

I don't see that they list the stock on their web site. It's supposed to start with Craigslist or some other online marketplace. Where did you find it? On Craigslist or Oodle, the seller lists the item for sale and answer questions from potential buyers. After an agreement is reached, the Buyer must Register on our website. If a new price is negotiated with the seller, it must be specified in the Registration Form as the "Purchase Price". After registration, we will contact the seller and verify if all the information is accurate. An invoice will be sent to the Buyers e-mail address provided in the registration form. This information will be kept private as stated in our Privacy Policy. https://www.eautostock.com/consignment-centralstore/checkstock.html

It's basically like eBay and PayPal. https://www.eautostock.com/consignment-centralstore/forbuyers.html our service is absolutely free for buyers, we don't charge a penny more than the price originally listed. We deduct all fees necessary (shipping, handling, listing fees, etc) from our commission. There are no hidden fees.

There doesn't seem to be any risk to the buyer, in the beginning. Seems like the buyer could opt out of the eAutotrader thing and the seller has to pay their commission. The process is absolutely FREE! for buyers, all fees associated to any transaction is deducted from our commission. On Craigslist or Oodle, the seller lists the item for sale and answer questions from potential buyers. After an agreement is reached, the Buyer must Register on our website. If a new price is negotiated with the seller, it must be specified in the Registration Form as the "Purchase Price". After registration, we will contact the seller and verify if all the information is accurate. An invoice will be sent to the Buyers e-mail address provided in the registration form. This information will be kept private as stated in our Privacy Policy.

Here's the other one. If the ECU sees "full throttle" it will add 27% extra fuel over the base pulse. So, if 3 is shorted to 18, either in the ECU or at the TVS, you'll get a lot of extra fuel. Just realized that this might be the root cause of "bad" ECUs'. Might be worth tracing that circuit in the ECU, or the ECU plug and it's interface, if the TVS is not shorted.

Whichever you get take it apart and clean the bores out before using. Sometimes they leave honing grit inside that will kill the seals pretty fast. Reman quality.

TVS is the correct name for the "TPS". Throttle valve switch. No offense, but people often say that they tested something and it's correct, then we find out later that they didn't really know what "correct" was, or they only tested half of the system. The TVS has idle, full enrichment, and neither of those. Always best to give more details, way more if you can, than you think are necessary. If what you say is correct matches what we think is correct then everyone can move on. Otherwise, who knows, it's just an indirect argument about what correct means. If everything was correct there would be no problem. "Full enrichment" is 27% more fuel.

I had a similar problem with my car right after I bought it. It was the FPR, it seemed to stop regulating when it got hot. It was a hard problem to diagnose, I only measured pressure when the engine was cool. I replaced it with an adjustable FPR, set pressure to spec., and it ran fine. Just a possibility. Another one, that happens but is uncommon, is the ECU. They tend to run rich as they go bad. If you have spare parts, swapping and checking is an option.

What is mpg, in numbers? Yes. There should be a green label on it with numbers and letters, like A31-..... They're all very similar though. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/11-3040

Is it a Nissan factory original AFM or Fuel Injection Corporation reman?

Did you actually compare the resistance readings to the chart? The G. or N.G. tests don't show much. The other fuel source is the CSV. The idle air bypass screw under the rubber plug on the AFM is only good for very fine adjustments, and only at idle. It won't affect much above that. I just went through a similar situation, trying to pass emissions. My engine ran fine and I could take the oil filler cap off at idle. It turned out that my AFM was "tuned" rich. I had to put an old stock Nissan AFM back on. You really should reset your AFM to the original settings. Adjusting the spring never works right, from what I've seen. It just makes a messy problem messier.

Did you check the FPR vacuum line for fuel? It's the hidden cause for rich running. A small leak can add a lot of extra fuel but still control pressure correctly.

Nissan's drawings and explanations really aren't very good at explaining the purpose of the various parts.